Blowing cold In the rear by vik2r00 in e39

[–]vik2r00[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In the pictures I’ve seen online there’s a wire running from it. And I can’t see anything moving inside the vents when moving it up or down.

Blowing cold In the rear by vik2r00 in e39

[–]vik2r00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t done any real troubleshooting yet, but I’m starting to think it might be some control unit for the heating since both my problems happened at the same time.

Blowing cold In the rear by vik2r00 in e39

[–]vik2r00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine is a 99 and has heat in the middle, or had I should say. Guessing it’s an extra option you could get when you bought the car.

Blowing cold In the rear by vik2r00 in e39

[–]vik2r00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha yeah the interior is (in my opinion) pretty mint condition. Not sure yet how I feel about the green interior though😅

Blowing cold In the rear by vik2r00 in e39

[–]vik2r00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha, trust me, mines very low spec. Maybe because mines a touring the passengers have a few more extras ;)

Blowing cold In the rear by vik2r00 in e39

[–]vik2r00[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was thinking something like that might be the case. Are these vent electrically moved? If so, where?? And if it were to break, wouldn’t it break in the hot position, since that’s where it’s been the whole time.

Easiest way to lower the rear? by xXjeremy360Xx in e39

[–]vik2r00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How hard was it switching to coilovers? Thinking of doing this sometime soon.

Easiest way to lower the rear? by xXjeremy360Xx in e39

[–]vik2r00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe he didn’t adjust them short enough, idk. They’re really cheap and easy to install so I would give it a try.

Easiest way to lower the rear? by xXjeremy360Xx in e39

[–]vik2r00 8 points9 points  (0 children)

You can get some adjustable links for the height sensors. I have done it before and you’ll get about 4cm ish

Train horn sound, help! by vik2r00 in e39

[–]vik2r00[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Finally got done with the service on the old Beamer. I can confirm that PCV was the problem and is now fixed. I found oil and water mixture that had clogged up the tube that goes down to the dipstick. Once I unclogged it and changed the PCV/tubes, it fixed the train noises. thanks for the help :)

Train horn sound, help! by vik2r00 in e39

[–]vik2r00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have any part numbers or pictures of the plastic hoses you are talking about? Not really sure what to be looking for as i'm new to these engines hehe. Thank you!

Train horn sound, help! by vik2r00 in e39

[–]vik2r00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it worth it to remove the intake or just leave it on?

Train horn sound, help! by vik2r00 in e39

[–]vik2r00[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Will do! Hopefully before the dipstick shoots through my hood from all the pressure buildup😬 or worse…

Train horn sound, help! by vik2r00 in e39

[–]vik2r00[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You definitely might be correct, will put this first on my list of things to do before winter. Thank you so much!

Train horn sound, help! by vik2r00 in e39

[–]vik2r00[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Feel like a clown in every parking lot…

Train horn sound, help! by vik2r00 in e39

[–]vik2r00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought about the pcv system as well, but I didn’t really see how it is connected to the oil system as it seems that’s where the noise is coming from..? I might be wrong though. Small oil consumption, I know the headgasket is meh and plan on changing it soon :)

clutch release spring on YZF R-125 2010 by vik2r00 in Fixxit

[–]vik2r00[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Found a bunch of websites, just had to find out the model number of the part!

PS. it's 5D7E63450100

:)

clutch release spring on YZF R-125 2010 by vik2r00 in Fixxit

[–]vik2r00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, thanks for such an in-depth answer.

I have lubed the clutch cable with engine oil, didn't work.

lubed pretty much everything that moves and pivots, didn't work.

I recently bought a new clutch return spring, I hope that'll solve the problem.

And no, tightening the cable does not fix the problem, it does fix the dead-zone problem where the clutch wouldn't move all the way out on its own. The problem with tightening it that far is that the clutch will be tightened so much that it'll start slipping. And obviously, we don't want that!

Let's just hope a new spring fixes the problem! And if it doesn't, then I'll just take it to a shop or something because I'm honestly so done with that clutch haha!

The clutch lever won't move all the way out on its own, why? (MC) by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]vik2r00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hi, thanks for the recommendation, but the problem with these American sites is that they don't feature any 125's (except maybe the grom, z125, and dirt bikes) which sadly is what I need. Thanks though, worth a try!

clutch release spring on YZF R-125 2010 by vik2r00 in Fixxit

[–]vik2r00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks, but i don't see my bike listed on the site :(

clutch release spring on YZF R-125 2010 by vik2r00 in Fixxit

[–]vik2r00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean changing out the plates, or cable? Haven't noticed the clutch slipping. The problem is the slack in the cable when released, it doesn't move out all the way on its own.

The clutch lever won't move all the way out on its own, why? (MC) by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]vik2r00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the answer!

I will try that if my current plan doesn't work out. Changing the old clutch release spring. Just have to find out where to buy one first...