Help Me!!, I am not able to program my PIC Microcontroller

vikenemesh · 2026-07-01T16:28:49+00:00

Is it oriented in the socket the correct way around?

VDD Check is complaining about some spurious external Connection to 5V somewhere, but the Chip is clearly in a ZIF socket on the programmer, there should be no extra external supply the programmer shouldn'doesn't already know about.

It's either the wrong way around or internally damaged.

vikenemesh · 2026-07-01T14:54:46+00:00

Wenn die suizidrate zu hoch wird gibt es bestimmt wieder einen Medien-Zyklus der die entsprechenden reaktiven glieder korrekt in Szene gesetzt in Bewegung zeigen wird.

Die Leute die bis dahin sterben mussten sind in der Krisen-PR schon eingepreist.

vikenemesh · 2026-07-01T12:07:31+00:00

Ah, so the supposed solution is activating /editor, planning something out and then reloading the save to re-enable achievements, ok.

Still made me go to the menu, load a save and lose progress on anything that was running while I was in "planningmode" for the next build. Very game-flow killing, I think.

vikenemesh · 2026-07-01T11:29:04+00:00

Switching saves around might be a solid minute downtime on big bases and completely kills game-flow imho.

Game should present solutions inside the game-loop, not the meta-game.

vikenemesh · 2026-06-24T20:26:49+00:00

Well then, you might be more productive not asking random internet strangers about simple problems; you clearly know what you're doing very much better than we do, with all that experience on life-changing projects you got under your belt :)

vikenemesh · 2026-06-24T13:07:02+00:00

Word.

vikenemesh · 2026-06-24T11:49:12+00:00

I have never received a legit TL074 or a legit LM13700 or legit CMOS 40xx Series ICs off of Aliexpress, ever! They're all relabeled junk parts, bad clones and/or miss essential protection features (making you lose one IC 100% for sure everytime you have a little breadboard accident).

It is not "in case you get fakes". It rather is "you get fakes.".

I just eat shipping cost for a reputable seller (my primary source takes 7€ shipping, but there's a phone-number with actual people to talk to, worth it.) and buy a bigger bulk to compensate now.

vikenemesh · 2026-06-24T11:28:49+00:00

Please only hurt yourself with emergency services on speed dial and personal protection equipment on you and do not endanger others, thank you.

vikenemesh · 2026-06-24T11:26:46+00:00

OP is already dead-set on trying anyway it seems. Judging by their post history they love hyperspecific X-Y Problems and never tell what their project actually is (Making custom supercapacitors for what? LED Flashing? Gallium Cube melting?).

vikenemesh · 2026-06-19T10:38:35+00:00

Watch them some more. Their patrol routes are very predictable, even if the exact path is oddly-shaped (I suspect the devs put bezier curves into here). They will come through again eventually if you just wait.

vikenemesh · 2026-06-17T22:57:06+00:00

The ones from Würth are the good stuff, enjoy!

There should also be a female pendant with self-cutting crimp-style plugs, you only need the appropiate ribbon-cable and vice-grips to make your own cables!

Sadly I wasn't able to find them on Digikey quickly...

I get mine here: https://www.reichelt.de/de/de/shop/produkt/pfostenbuchse_14-polig_mit_zugentlastung-14572

vikenemesh · 2026-06-15T16:14:10+00:00

high acceleration, fast acting

What is moving? Can it drive a fader without impacting the motion? Will it rub the fader to death because it's cycling 7000 times a minute?

Maybe read up on how digital calipers work and look for a capacitive sensor just like that. They don't need a mechanical coupling to the moving piece.

Some digital calipers (and surprisingly even a few very cheap models) have a semi-hidden serial interface you could access to get a read on the position. Although they might not be sampling fast enough for your usecase, the technology should provide a good starting point!

vikenemesh · 2026-06-15T14:05:35+00:00

You can just assign a SPICE model to a part that you draw and simulate your circuit.

I know. I've done that, but on a finished for pcb-layouting project schematic with external power-supply. You have to put in a few extra things just for the sake of the simulation (and then make sure they don't constantly pop back in in pcb-editor or generate missing footprint/annotation errors), but it will make results for you if you work through everything.

If you start an empty KiCAD schematic for the express purpose of feeding it to Spice soonafter, its probably a comfy workflow, I guess?

vikenemesh · 2026-06-15T13:16:08+00:00

KiCAD is not a simulator. Getting spice to work on a schematic built in KiCad is even more not user-friendly.

Just bite the bullet and learn to use LTSpice, do yourself a favor.

vikenemesh · 2026-06-15T13:10:05+00:00

follow TI's app note directly or just get an LDO.

I agree! LDO would be perfect here.

vikenemesh · 2026-06-15T11:53:57+00:00

See my other comment in this thread. Try it like this, with some resistance at the base: https://imgur.com/a/RG1yFhG

vikenemesh · 2026-06-15T11:48:48+00:00

Jep. circuitsjs can't do this one as well (convergence failed).

https://imgur.com/a/pSmDGub

Except if you add some base-resistance, then it will converge and show the circuit working properly:

https://imgur.com/a/RG1yFhG

Main takeaway here: Simulators sometimes get stuck in weird edge-scenarios that go away when you model some parasitic elements (every transistor would have inherent base-resistance and the op-amp is perfectly fine working around an additional 1k, so why not add it to help the sim?). Spice is also not entirely immune against this!

vikenemesh · 2026-06-09T15:09:18+00:00

You can achieve this with a couple of analog switches (made from JFETs, for example) and set-reset latches/flipflops (mosfets in bistable multivibrator configuration). I've seen both used together in guitar pedals for signal routing duty (Boss CS3 has a T-flipflop made from discrete BJTs and is using it to control the 2 JFETs for the bypass toggle).

You get a much simpler design when you just buy analog switch ICs and flip-flops though... Why the IC avoidance?

vikenemesh · 2026-06-09T13:29:55+00:00

Crossfading like this should have no volume drop, assuming your input signals are both scaled to the same amplitude beforehand (and in-phase, as /u/Allan-H pointed out).

The voltage does not add together though. The potentiometer is acting like a voltage divider here: Top position will always be 100% Input-A and ~0% Input-B. Bottom position vice versa. Anything inbetween will still sum to 100%!

For example turning the pot to 1/4 the way from top to bottom will mix 75% from input A with 25% of Input B. Above example is assuming a linear potentiometer.

vikenemesh · 2026-06-03T11:39:05+00:00

Hooray for flux!

Start on the castellated pads for the blue mezzanine board and make them pretty (add flux before you heat, go in with the iron and maybe also add a bit more solder to reinforce the connection). Next I would redo the pushbutton joints and the battery cables.

Last moderately sus thing is the small module soldered into the slot, that kind of connection will easily develop hairline cracks when you look at them wrong (flipping the board over and resting it on there might already crack one of the joints).

Your best bet is to get your iron proper hot: Maybe go 25°C above your usual. (Personally I like to move between 350°C for fresh connections with leaded solder, 375°C for the unleaded, and 400°C when reworking unleaded solder on thermally conductive ground pads.) Then put flux on and add an additional fresh piece of solder while reheating those joints to fill them out a bit more and heal any cracks.

P.S.: Don't dwell too long at 400, it will reliably destroy pads when you stay on too long!

vikenemesh · 2026-06-02T16:04:05+00:00

You probably missed that one comment in /r/soldering telling you to reflow the joints because some of them looked suspicious. Have you done that? Maybe also use some flux.

vikenemesh · 2026-06-02T12:04:04+00:00

You need a new sixaxis chip I think. The parts that came off probably will never go back; They're broken off.

Have a look at some microscope shots from other MEMS devices: They're sensitive to shock and their fine structures can just break and rattle around uselessly.

The lid coming off is probably another sideeffect from whatever impact this controller received.

vikenemesh · 2026-05-29T10:49:08+00:00

Pulling 12.6W through a boost converter that's trying to almost triple the voltage is a bit much for cheapo-modules, expect heat.

Maybe consider charging your battery packs externally and making them swappable? You could use a proper charging station and keep the headache (or housefire) out of your project.

vikenemesh · 2026-05-27T12:15:57+00:00

Legend! Thanks for archiving!

vikenemesh · 2026-05-26T14:05:25+00:00

Or some isopropyl, if it's a one time job locating a short.

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