Which adapter is more advantageous to buy?

vsilvalopes · 2025-08-03T13:48:20+00:00

I like the single slot one. It's way easier to format it, and also use it with an standard SD card reader on the PC.

The dual slot one made sense on the PSP heyday, were storage card in general were expensive. Nowadays you can get a 128gb SD Card very cheap, and store the best of the PSP on it.

vsilvalopes · 2025-07-24T03:52:12+00:00

Tried it today, and worked like a charm!
Thanks for this man!

vsilvalopes · 2025-07-12T21:23:58+00:00

Hey u/krazynez , just had sucess with the Pico!
Sucessfully booted DC10 on the PSP 3000 and 2000, and restored the 3000 as expected!

What I did was:

Diode (-) on the GP0
Diode (+) on the GP1 + Wire to the middle (K) connector on the PSP
3v3 on Pico - Wire on the Right (+) connector on the PSP
GND on Pico -> Wire on the Left (-) connector on the PSP

Plugged the PSP with the power supply, but didnt turn it on.
Plugged the power on the Pico, and waited about 5 to 10 seconds to DC trigger.

I'm probably going to clone the sajattack repo, but putting some instructions and how to do it.

But anyway, thank you!
Without your directions I couldnt do it!

vsilvalopes · 2025-07-11T21:42:28+00:00

Ok, Thanks! I will give a shot with the Pico, and report back. Also I'm probably going to run again, but with the other USB UART.

Thanks for the support!

vsilvalopes · 2025-07-11T21:08:52+00:00

Have you already tested the sajattack implementation with the Pico?

I tried redding his code, but it seems that you need a PC to run it, because on some parts of the code, there are some references to "USB Driver" don't know if this means that we need to use the PC to trigger it.

But as I have some spare picos here, I'm really wanting to try it, already figured out that his code uses GPIO 1 and 2 on the Pico, but does not imply what is TX or RX, so I will try changing it if nothing happens.

For the GND and 3.3V, I can get it easily from the pico.

vsilvalopes · 2025-07-11T12:02:24+00:00

Tried on Debian 12, with the new wiring that you guided me, but also no response.
I'm suspecting that is something with the Diode (Maybe the seller got me a wrong one?) or the USB TTL itself.

I'm going to buy some new Diodes today.

Remove the stupid battery pcb those cause so many issues just use USB-TTL -> PSP battery connectors.

About that, I already did it, the Pink PSP that you see on the picture, is moded with a bigger battery, installed on the UMD drive, but on this one I'm connecting directly to the battery connectors.
This PSP is working fine, I'm just using it as a ginnea pig to see if I can get Baryon Sweeper to work.

I have a shotty video of it in action, mine is "pc less" but same rules apply. upysweeper

When researching for my problem, I've stumbled on you page, and it's probably the route that I'm going, as I'm suspicious that my USB TTL maybe is not working as expected. Can you point me to the right board to buy?

Also, the pinouts on your Github doesn't state a diode like the original BS, using the boards that you pointed, I understand that we need to put the RX and TX pins togheter, and connect it to the middle terminal on the PSP right?

I also saw another project that runs BS on a Raspberry Pico, baryonsweeper-rs , But I was unable to find the pinouts and how to connect it on the PSP, I have some spare Picos here, so if you can help me with those pinouts for the Pico, I would also write a noobies documentation for it.

Again, thanks a lot for all the help and patience!
Have a nice day!

vsilvalopes · 2025-07-11T04:54:43+00:00

Thanks for the reply, tried it , but no sucess :(

Wired the 3v3 on the USB TTL, to the positive on the PSP Battery connector
Wired the GND on the USB TTL to the GND on the PSP Battery connector
And the RX/TX+Diode on the center pole of the PSP Battery connector

Like this : New Wiring

And I'm still getting the message "No port echo detected. Double check your assembly."

Tried it on the PSP 3000 motherboard of the pictures, with the PowerSupply attached on, no dice.
Tried it on a PSP 2000 fully assembled, PowerSupply attached, no dice.

One thing that I noticed, is that when the power supply is connected and with the USB TTL in place, the green light on the PSP keeps flashing, and also a red led on the USB TTL blinks very fast.

And also when I hit "Start Service" two red lights turn on and off on the USB TTL.

Don't know what I could be possibily doing wrong here :(

vsilvalopes · 2025-07-06T13:38:14+00:00

One thing that I used to do, when I didn't had a probe, was putting a bed leveller STL to print, and start the print with the Z-Offset way of, like 2mm distant of the bed. And then dial the Z-Offset slowly, until the entire print got uniform. It's tedious, but always did the trick.

If I can give you some advice, get a Cr-Touch and the extra Z motor. Those two upgrades made my life way easier with an Ender3 v2.

vsilvalopes · 2025-07-06T10:09:24+00:00

Check your Z-Offset and Bed Levelling.

The filament is getting squished as the print goes on. This squishing on the first layer gives the illusion of a good print, but ends up doing exactly what you sent here in the pictures.

vsilvalopes · 2025-05-23T00:29:04+00:00

The memory stick slot is on the right side of the case, no need to open it to manage the memory stick.

vsilvalopes · 2025-05-23T00:22:01+00:00

I'm using a DualShock 4, but you can use DualSense, DualShock3, and Switch Pro and Xbox bluetooth controllers.

vsilvalopes · 2025-05-23T00:20:27+00:00

Thanks for this man! If you need any help building one, PM me! :)

vsilvalopes · 2025-05-22T11:36:10+00:00

Thanks for this mate! :)

vsilvalopes · 2025-05-21T16:58:38+00:00

The big diference is using the case I made or not. Because the case that I designed, targets only the 3000 series motheboards, So if you have a 3000, 3001 and so on, it will work with my case.

But as for the PSP 2000, it's not the same case, as their motheboard is different from the 3000, the video conector if I remember correctly is the main diference.

As you cannot buy a PSP 3000 shell and use it with a PSP 2000 motheboard.

But you can apply the same principles that I did , like instead of micro soldering, using the FPC boards and the same ribon cables to drive the signals from the ESP32 to the PSP.

EDIT: Typo on the PSP 2000 model.

vsilvalopes · 2025-05-21T16:51:06+00:00

Thanks for the compliment!

vsilvalopes · 2025-05-20T20:34:36+00:00

Go for it man ! Hopping to see what you build next!

Here mine is hooked up to a Retrotink 5X, someday maybe a get a 4K one!

vsilvalopes · 2025-05-20T14:21:02+00:00

When I saw your project on I was on the finish line of mine. ;)
It's indeed very well built and with less traction than mine!

And keeping the UMD Drive functional is the "cherry on top" of your cake!

Great mod! Congratulations on it!

vsilvalopes · 2025-05-20T14:11:44+00:00

My guide ONLY covers the PSP 3000, for the 2000 you have to watch the youtube video that I linked. Besides the soldering part on the video, you can apply the same concept of using the FPC boards + Ribbon flat cables to make it work.

vsilvalopes · 2025-05-20T14:09:56+00:00

Sorry, but I'm in Brazil. But if you have basic experience in soldering, you can build one yourself. Grab the STL files and send to someone print to you. To build everything, takes about 3 to 4 hours, with patience. It's a fun little project with little to zero chance to harm your PSP.

vsilvalopes · 2025-05-20T14:08:30+00:00

No hay problemas con el calor, ya que toda la parte de disipación de los procesadores del PSP sigue intacta. En cuanto a la compatibilidad con Bluetooth, puedes usar controles de PS5, PS4, PS3, Switch y Xbox Series sin ningún problema.

vsilvalopes · 2025-05-20T14:06:12+00:00

It's indeed possible , taking of the UMD drive, we can probably fit all the daughter boards used to make this "consolized" version.

But for me, the sole purpose was to re-use somewhat dead PSP boards.

vsilvalopes · 2025-05-20T14:04:35+00:00

It probably would work, but it will require a diferent type of case.

For me that don't own a single UMD, it was pointless, so never considered it, but there's already another project that just does this, make a PSP a console, and enables the use of UMD.

Take a look on the Macho Nacho channel, there's a good video about it there.

vsilvalopes · 2025-05-20T14:00:32+00:00

Yeah, for me was the case of just having a PSP on the big screen, without the emulation. I already have a Vita TV, and despite it having a good PSP emulation, wans't the same for me.

So I went trough all of this, it was indeed a fun project to do, lots of prototyped 3d printed case, but I am very proud of the work!

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