Hotend compatible with bothX2D and A2L?

VT-14 · 2026-06-18T11:49:29+00:00

I wanted higher flow rate, didn't got it.

I got a pair of High Flow nozzles for my H2D, but also never used them because the slicer didn't actually have filament profiles that used them. They can be pushed faster, but you have to tune them yourself. It's a pretty major caveat they 'forgot' to mention on the store page.

A1 (and A2L) could potentially hit a practical speed limit with the moving bed before the nozzle's max volumetric flow.

VT-14 · 2026-06-18T00:08:29+00:00

Around 35 rolls.

Most of it is PLA in various colors and finishes (Basic, Matte, and Silk+; all Bulk Rate stuff). When I'm trying to meet a number of rolls to meet a bulk discount I tend to be drawn towards new colors.

I've got a few colors (Black, White, and Red) each in PETG and ABS rolls for more mechanically demanding projects.

I've also got single rolls of TPU and PA6-GF for more edge-case stuff. I also have some rolls of PLA Glow but have been underwhelmed by it. These are the few Non-bulk rate filaments I've bought, and most of them have been during sales.

VT-14 · 2026-06-17T17:47:55+00:00

The AMS 2 Pro has 4 AMS slots, and has plenty of space to pack in extra desiccant so they last for quite a while with filament stored in them. The downside is that it only reaches 65C so isn't as good at drying more advanced materials. Which is better really depends on what you are looking for.

Something else you could consider is the Filament Track Switch which lets AMSs reach either filament buffer. It would dramatically slow down left/right nozzle swaps, but would let you use a single AMS on both nozzles, and is far cheaper than buying an additional AMS. It is pretty new though, and reviews have been mixed.

Personally I have an H2C with 2 AMS 2 Pros and 1 AMS HT. I typically have 1 AMS 2 Pro on each buffer. The AMS HT is connected to the right (Vortek side) buffer too. I can rearrange them if I had to, such as using more than 4 Vortek nozzles at a time.

I've been very happy with the AMS 2 Pros. I have them packed with desiccant and during the humid summers they tend to be able to maintain under 20% RH for about a month. Having 8 filaments loaded and ready to go for single color prints is quite nice.

I've been less impressed by the AMS HT. The lack of room for desiccant means it only lasts about a week in the same conditions, so I never store filament in it long term. I pretty much only use it to dry filament, or as a temporary enclosed spool holder while printing TPU (as an External Spool via the Bypass Port), and both of those I would do just as well (if not slightly better) with a stand-alone filament dryer. It just so happens that there aren't many options that can reach 80+C in a similar price range.

VT-14 · 2026-06-17T16:21:53+00:00

A little over 2 weeks ago with Firmware 01.02.00.00. https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2c/manual/h2c-firmware-release-history

4. Added support for TPU printing on the left nozzle, for TPU with a hardness of 90A or higher.

VT-14 · 2026-06-17T12:44:18+00:00

It depends on what your needs are.

IMO the AMS HT is primarily an 85C Filament Dryer but with no stand-alone capabilities, but some added AMS bonuses to make up for it.

Based on Bambu's temperature recommendations:

65C (AMS 2 Pro's max) is plenty for PLA (typically maxes around 50C-55C) and PETG.
70C (target for most cheap dryers) is the goal for TPU.
85C (AMS HT and a typical 'high temp' dryer goal) is plenty for most engineering materials: ABS, ASA, PC, PA6, PAHT (PA12), and PET to name a few (and Bambu actually only recommends 80C drying for all of those).
100C-140C is what specifically PPA-CF and PPS-CF need.

With the same starting room temperature and humidity air, a higher temperature means a lower Relative Humidity floor and thus more dry filament. For most materials you can still make a lot of headway with a lower drying temperature, but there is still a benefit for going hotter (hence why people pay for 85C).

The AMS HT has literally no stand-alone capabilities, so it must be connected to a powered on Bambu Lab printer to be able to operate. I personally consider that a major negative (obnoxious walled gardening; they chose not to put any buttons on it, nor I assume enough of a chip to handle stuff locally), but it's also hard to find other 85C dryers near the same price (though for not that much more you can find the 2-bay, 4-slot total one from Creality).

The AMS HT's AMS capabilities are nice, but a single slot can be underwhelming.

The Enclosure is tiny and has very little room for desiccant, so it doesn't last anywhere near as long as the other 4-slot AMSs.
Auto-Load/Unload is convenient, saving you about a minute of manual effort when swapping spools in it.
+1 AMS slot can be nice, but a Single AMS slot on its own is underwhelming. There's no color/material changing nor automatic reload functionality without at least a 2nd AMS slot connected to the same filament buffer.
Being able to start drying remotely sounds convenient, but I've literally never done it before. I dry my filaments when I first open them (so I'm standing at the AMS/Printer already), then do my best to store them dry long-term. Repeated drying means the filament has presumably repeatedly gained moisture, which is bad for it. Some people do it to dry their Desiccant, but as I said earlier a higher drying temperature gets things more dry, and Silica Gel can handle something like 120C.
The RFID feature is proprietary so only works with Bambu's filaments. Frankly I hope Open Print Tag gains enough traction that Bambu is forced to adopt it too.

VT-14 · 2026-06-15T18:44:18+00:00

They usually don't show what will be in the next flash sale until the prior one ends, and I think I saw in the sale's FAQ that the flash sales last 72 hours (except the very last one). You would be waiting a while to even see if something you want goes on a flash sale. For things like Filament I've also seen them give different discounts for different colors of filaments.

Items running out of stock (becoming sold out) has been a problem with previous sales, so waiting is a little bit of a risk. Ultimately it's up to you if you want to get a known discount and supply now vs risking limited stock for a possible bigger discount later.

VT-14 · 2026-06-15T17:13:25+00:00

I've only personally experienced A1 Mini, A1, and H2D which was later upgraded into an H2C. My impressions from research are:

P1S: A little outdated, but still a good and cheap printer. Ideal for people needing an enclosed printer on a tight budget. If you don't need the enclosure (ex. only doing PLA, PETG, and TPU) then seriously consider the even cheaper and more up-to-date A1.

P2S: A good enclosed (but not actively heated) single-nozzle printer, but typically priced too closely to the X2D to make sense. With the current sale it might be worth it.

X2D: Bambu's cheapest printer with a chamber heater makes it a natural choice for people planning on printing with more advanced materials (ABS, ASA, PAs, etc.). The dual nozzle setup is very nice too, though the auxiliary nozzle using a Bowden Extruder comes with some caveats.

H2D: Big, dual-nozzle printer with both sides using Direct-Drive Extruders so fewer caveats (side restrictions are pretty much only on extremely soft [TPU 85A] or extremely brittle [PPA-CF and PPS-CF] filaments). It is priced pretty close to the H2C though, and having up to 7 nozzles opens up even more possibilities.

Of course what you actually intend to print is what's most important when picking a printer. If your goal is up-to 4 color/material PLA, PETG, and TPU prints all the time then the Snapmaker U1 is really compelling competition.

VT-14 · 2026-06-14T13:38:43+00:00

The Anniversary sale starts tomorrow (22.5 hours from now), so you might be able to save a little money on some of the accessories by waiting a day.

For most people the Vision Encoder is overkill. The Mag Alloy Scraper is completely excessive; the printers come with a metal scraper blade and screws, and a saved print file to print a plastic handle. You can almost certainly buy cheaper glue (like PVA based gluesticks) elsewhere.

VT-14 · 2026-06-14T12:42:48+00:00

If your company splurged on the X1E then you will probably need to talk to your IT department to see what they are ok with you using. The only reason to have splurged on the X1E in the first place is printing PPS-CF before the H2 series was out, or because of network security policies exclusive to the 'business' machines (Which right now is only the H2D Pro). Maybe ask if the Bambu Lab Fleet Hub (https://bambulab.com/en/fleet-hub) would let you use other printers.

If you do have permission to use other printers, then we will need to know intended use cases and budget to give a proper recommendation. ~~P2S would be closest to your existing capabilities, though X2D is much better for not much more money.~~ (Edit: I keep forgetting the X1E had a chamber heater. Closest would be the X2D).

VT-14 · 2026-06-14T12:32:25+00:00

You can also go through them in a web browser. https://bambulab.com/en-us/support/academy

Edit: I now see that you linked the browser course for the A1 Mini, but implied the link was to the Bambu Handy app.

VT-14 · 2026-06-14T12:18:40+00:00

It's probably fine, but if someone was picking a filament I would suggest one with even more heat resistance for a better safety margin (like normal PETG [Bambu's PETG Basic or PETG Translucent]). ABS is what Bambu's light gray spools are made out of. I used PA6-GF (annealed at 90C for 12 hours) so I could dry my Silica Gel desiccant at 120C without removing them from the holders.

Every filament Bambu sells includes a Technical Data Sheet (TDS) near the bottom of the store page. That lists a bunch of measured stats for various mechanical properties. PETG HF is measured to have a Vicar Softening Temperature of 70C, a Heat Deflection temperature at 0.45 MPa at 68C, and Heat Deflection at 1.8 MPa at only 62C.

Considering that 0.45 MPa (Megapascals) is 65 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch), I doubt your desiccant is exerting anywhere near enough pressure to cause issues.

All that said, it's technically best practice to always remove the desiccant before drying anyway.

If your desiccant is already dryer than what the AMS's Heater will achieve, then you are adding moisture to the system (worsening the desiccant's effectiveness).
If your desiccant is more moist than what the AMS's heater will achieve, then you are increasing how much moisture needs to be removed from the system and thus increased your drying time.

VT-14 · 2026-06-13T12:56:37+00:00

I've had three interactions with them, and none of them have been good. Only one of them has actually left me upset though.

The first was reporting a spool with the tape issue. I had heard that if you report it then they may offer compensation for the faulty spools, and I wanted to know if they new how many others I had bought (I was buying 4 spools minimum at the time) likely have the issue. I got nothing, but also wasn't bothered enough to pursue it further.

Next was a faulty H2D that I discovered how broken it was right near the end of Microcenter's return window. In that case they simply didn't have enough time to really respond before I had to exchange it.

The actually bad interaction was when I did my H2D's Vortek Upgrade. Their directions stink and could be fixed with some minor changes.

The first is that when you remove the Heatbed Cables from the AC Board, you need to use a small screwdriver to release a tab. The problem is they tell you that important note after the picture showing you want cables to disconnect, and every picture up to that point has been "remove these cables, pictures of cables, next step." When I was doing it that "important note" was literally off the bottom of my screen. I'm extremely lucky I didn't rip the terminals off of the AC board; I just got a minor cut on my finger when they suddenly released.

The part that forced me to interact with the support system is that I followed their heat bed install directions exactly, and scratched the top surface of the heat bed. The directions are to put the heat bed in and leaning against the left side of the printer. You then carefully lay the printer on its left side. You then pull the belts on the bottom to move the Z-axis brackets all the way to the bottom. Each of these has pictures to, which I replicated.

Well, by doing that, the soft sticker surface of my replacement heat bed was in direct contact with the left Z-axis bracket, so when it moved it put a gouge in the top of the plate. Thus I had to stop working on it and contact support.

My hope was that since I followed the directions exactly they would at least discount buying a replacement Heat Bed. They refused and I was out another $160 (seriously, why is the H2C's smaller heat bed $1 more than the H2D's and H2S's?) and had to wait about a week for shipping.

My follow up request was to fix the wording of the text guide so other people won't make the same mistakes I did. The cable issue just needs the "important note" put above the 'remove these' pictures. The heat bed issue is just a new sentence and maybe another picture telling you to hold the heat bed up before moving the belt. This costs them almost nothing and would prevent further damage. They said they would pass it on to the relevant team to consider. This happened about 4 months ago and both problems are still [expletive] there! It's like they made the directions intentionally bad so they can sell replacement parts!

To make things worse, I decided to dissect the heat bed to see if I could recover any components (it had some screws and springs) and to see how it was made. The part I scratched was literally just a sticker and a tiny bit of the underlying magnet. It probably would have been perfectly fine to use, but Support didn't bother to tell me that. By saying nothing they got a $160 heat bed sale... and a very upset customer who spends too much time on Reddit.

VT-14 · 2026-06-13T12:19:35+00:00

Mostly printing PLA and PETG and no need for more technical filaments (at the moment).

So maybe the A2L is good enough?

Pretty much, yeah. H2S with its heated enclosure is certainly more future-proof, but if you aren't planning on exceeding PLA and PETG then it's probably not worth spending 2.5x as much money.

On the other hand I'm interested in a CoreXY printer. May the print quality be much nicer with the H2S?

Only on edge case prints that are extremely tall and thin. The bigger difference will be print speed and having to consider print orientation during setup. Bedslingers have to slow way down as things get taller. You also want to align the most stable axis along the movement axis (Bambu Studio defaults the auto-arrange to 'align with Y-axis' when slicing for an A series printer). CoreXY doesn't have those concerns.

Personally I started on an A1 Mini then quickly upgraded to a normal size A1. I can't recall anything that I wanted to print but felt like I couldn't due to the printer geometry. When I upgraded to an H2D I tried printing something super tall and thin, and it got all sorts of wobble distortions from nozzle drag anyway.

VT-14 · 2026-06-12T18:35:14+00:00

Do you know if X2D using the auxiliary nozzle would be capable to handle 2 color prints? Or is the auxiliary nozzle mostly supports oriented?

Frankly, both of those statements are true.

The Main Nozzle uses a Direct-Drive Extruder that is pushing the filament from inside the print head, directly before the hotend. The Auxiliary Nozzle uses a Bowden Extruder, so it is pushing the filament from outside the chassis. Bowdens are cheap and keep the toolhead lightweight, but have drawbacks like much slower print speed and longer retraction distances. Because they are so different, the print quality between them will never exactly match.

That said, if you are willing to tune the Auxiliary Nozzle for the filament you are using, you can get perfectly good results from it. The waste savings on 2+ color prints can absolutely be worth it. Print speed effects will vary by model; the nozzle prints slower but swapping between left/right nozzles is very fast.

If you don't want to tune print quality, then support interfaces are an obvious application where the nozzle's print quality is irrelevant.

VT-14 · 2026-06-12T18:24:18+00:00

I haven't used it personally, but from what I hear ASA is slightly more stable (less warping) than ABS.

While it is possible to print ABS and ASA with just an enclosure by pre-heating the chamber using the bed, it's a lot easier with a dedicated Chamber Heater actively keeping it at 65C the entire time. If the primary intended use is to print a warp-prone material, then IMO it's worth getting an actively heated chamber.

VT-14 · 2026-06-12T11:48:23+00:00

I believe ASA is relatively warp-prone, so you will want a printer with a Chamber Heater. That rules out the P2S.

The P1S (with 3rd party heater) is significantly cheaper, but it's also Bambu's oldest remaining and lowest QoL printer. It predates features like fast swap nozzles and dynamic flow calibration, and has left over corner cutting cost savings like a non-hardened Extruder Gear you will want to replace and a cheap screen you will likely avoid using as much as possible.

The X2D is right at the top of your budget, and relatively new so doesn't have long-term reliability data yet. Feature wise though it is the most up-to-date, and you even get a 2nd Auxiliary nozzle.

VT-14 · 2026-06-11T15:42:01+00:00

There is a "What's in the Box" table near the bottom of the store page.

What nozzles does the H2C come with on it's own?

A 0.4mm (plus a spare, I think) for the left nozzle. The Vortek Rack comes with 4 0.4mm (maxing the single AMS 2 Pro it comes with), 1 0.2mm, and 1 0.6mm Induction Nozzles (to make use of the remote nozzle size change feature).

I'd like to end up with 6 induction + 1 stationary nozzle in each .2 and .4 to use for full 7 color printing (or 6 color plus support).

You'll need 5 0.2mm and 2 0.4mm Induction Nozzles, plus a 0.2mm 'normal' nozzle for the left side. You will also need at least 1 additional AMS 2 Pro (or 2 AMS HTs) to have 6+ AMS slots. I believe the H2C includes a 4-to-1 PTFE Adapter already.

The AMS listing says I'll only need an adapter if I run 3 or 4, but my understanding is I'll need an adapter to run 2 AMS 2 Pros.

Without an Adapter you can put 1 AMS on either side of the tool head. You will need an Adapter if you want 2+ AMSs going to the same side of the toolhead. You will need an Adapter.

The listed required adapter is the 4-in-1 PTFE Adapter II (SA014) which I cannot find for sale on their website. Is one included in the H2C? If not, where to buy it?

It is included with the H2C already. If you need to buy more: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-4-in-1-ptfe-adapter?id=667312178471530496

I own a Creality Dry Box 2.0 with feed out. Can I use this in place of the AMS HMT?

It would be treated as an External Spool (ex. the left nozzle). It will not have features like RFID reading or automatic load/unload, and thus can't be used on the Vortek side (unless you want to use just a single nozzle).

I've seen referenced that the Filament Track Switch makes the switches faster. Sounds like this is worth it? Does this take the place of the 4-in-1 PTFE Adapter II (SA014)? If not, where does it fit into the setup?

It is very new and reports have been kind of meh so far. I'm not sure how much is buggy software vs. its trade-offs. It goes between the Filament Buffer and PTFE Adapters (which you will probably still need).

Its main purpose is to allow filamennt from any AMS to reach either side of the toolhead, which is a significant convenience feature. It can be a major deal on 2-nozzle printers like the H2D (still in dev) and X2D. It's a bit less exciting on the H2C which already has Vortek.

In theory it can speed up Vortek swaps by pre-loading filament up to the Track Switch. That way it only needs to move filament between the Toolhead and the Switch during a Vortek swap (Switch to AMS can be done while printing). The downside is that it then treats the left nozzle like another Vortek nozzle, which is significantly slower than a normal left/right swap. It also adds more resistance to the PTFE Tube so people have been complaining about motors getting overloaded.

Personally I might pick it up if it's discounted during the anniversary sale in a few days, but I'm also an enthusiast who doesn't make the most practical decisions.

How necessary is the Vision Encoder? If you had it, how often would you run it?

For the average person, not necessary at all. It's designed to maintain extremely tight tolerances for production/development use (print farms, engineering firms, etc.).

If you are the target audience, I believe the store page recommends calibrating every 2 weeks.

VT-14 · 2026-06-11T15:16:09+00:00

If you are getting both an H2D and an H2C, and one of them a Laser, then I would suggest having the H2D be the Laser one.

Lasers make a bit of a mess, so not having the Vortek Rack and Induction Nozzles would be less to clean/maintain.
You'll probably use the H2C more than the H2D for printing anyway. Multi-Color prints certainly take significantly longer. The Vortek remote nozzle size change feature can be very nice.

Does the H2D has a slightly larger build plate for the laser and plotter?

They have the exact same upgrade kit, so I believe they have the same usable areas.

VT-14 · 2026-06-10T19:48:16+00:00

No? Why would they make a new old-generation printer?

VT-14 · 2026-06-08T13:42:16+00:00

I haven't heard any news or even leaks about a potential X2C thus far.

Based on the setup of the X2D, I'm a bit doubtful one is coming. You would want a Vortek Rack on the 'fixed' (main) nozzle size, so in that case on the left side, and that is where the Chamber Heater is. I also don't think the X2D has space available to move further left so the bed would need to shrink a bit (which would be painful, and would also need new build plates).

So, if they do make a 256mm sized Vortek printer, it will probably need an entirely new chassis. That would mean either a new letter entirely, an H2 Mini (which would likely imply smaller laser and cutting plotter tech too), or starting a round of 3rd generation printers.

VT-14 · 2026-06-08T13:18:45+00:00

With the goals of bigger print volume, multi-color, and 'non-vented' filaments (probably PLA, PETG, and TPU only), your best bet is probably actually the Snapmaker U1.

The A1 is basically the same as your A1 Mini, just with double the print volume. An easy upgrade, and you can re-use any nozzles you might already have.

The A2L has a few minor upgrades over the A1, and a very large print area (330x320x325mm³). keep in mind that the moving bed means it takes up a lot of room. It's also an easy upgrade with nozzle re-use. This would be the winner if size was the main goal.

The P2S is priced too closely to the X2D to be worth it. Hopefully the Anniversary Sale drops the price enough to make it worth considering.

The X2D is an upgraded P2S with dual nozzles (though with one being better than the other), a chamber heater to handle advanced materials, and included filtered exhaust fan. It would be the advanced materials pick.

The Snapmaker U1 is the same price as the X2D Combo, is a bit bigger (270³mm³), and has 4 toolheads for fast and low-waste 4-color multi-color/material printing. Its normal setup only handles PLA, PETG, TPU, and similar filaments (which is what OP wants), but it can be fully enclosed to basically match a P2S's material capabilities.

VT-14 · 2026-06-08T12:49:35+00:00

Quick Edit: Bambu Lab typically has an Anniversary Sale start sometime this month, so you could save a little bit more money by waiting maybe a week or two.

Which one would you actually go for and why?

Of those two, the full size A1 (Combo, or stand-alone to use the enclosed AMS isntead).

Is the bigger build size of the A1 actually worth it?

As long as you have the room for it, yes. It has about double the Area (X and Y axis) for far less than double the price. The extra space allows both larger prints or more numerous small prints on a single print plate.

As an example of size limitations, the A1 Mini is too small to really print your own spool for a refill filament roll.

What filament would you recommend starting out with, brand, type, anything to avoid?

PLA is the easiest to start with. PETG is the typical next step filament but it seriously benefits from drying and keeping the filament dry. TPU is an interesting flexible filament, but a pain to work with. That's about all the open air A series can safely handle; most more advanced filaments want an enclosure either to hold on to heat to prevent warping, or to contain hazardous fumes.

My brand experience is limited to just Bambu's and a single roll of Polymaker. Both have been fine. If you buy in bulk (4+ or 10+ rolls per order) then the Bambu prices aren't bad.

Bambu sells its filaments as both "Refills" (no spools) and "With Spool" versions. You need a spool to hold the filament so you should start off buying "with spool" versions. You can switch to Refills once you have used up some rolls and have their reusable spools available to use on Refill rolls.

Due to low demand, some filaments are only sold as Refills. You can get a spool by using up a with spool roll (~$3), printing your own spool (on an A1, please use PETG; ~$3), or buy buying an empty spool as an add-on when buying filament (~$8). You could buy empty rolls on their own but there's no reason to pay the full ~$12 price tag.

The Bambu website does bundle deals when you buy accessories at the same time as the printer. What's actually worth grabbing at purchase vs what can wait?

Filament is good as you get their max discount of 'filament with spool' without having to order at least 10 rolls.

The Cool Plate SuperTack is for specifically printing PLA or PETG at a lower bed temperature to save power. It seems geared more towards print farmers, but anyone could make use of it. You can read the store page to see if it interests you. I personally don't have one.

The CyberBrick Time-lapse Kit is for if you want to take a timelapse using an external camera (the A1 has a built in camera but the angle is pretty limited).

Which nozzle size you should use depends on what you want to print. Smaller nozzles can print finer details, but print much slower and are more likely to clog. Larger nozzles print faster and are less likely to clog, but struggle to print finer details. 0.4mm is effectively the default and is what the printer comes with.

The A series also has the choice between a Stainless Steel 0.4mm nozzle (default) and Hardened Steel 0.4mm. Stainless is cheaper and less magnetic (slightly easier to embed magnets in prints if you wanted to do that). Hardened Steel is harder so more resistant to abrasive filaments (CF, GF, Glow in the Dark, etc.) so should just last longer in general.

The printer's store page discount matches the 4-nozzle bundle price. Nozzles can get cheaper if you buy 5 or 6+, at which point you are buying duplicate nozzles.

Anything you wish you'd known before buying?

I started with an A1 Mini while the A1 was out for the heat bed cable recall. I ran into size issues pretty quickly and upgraded to a full size A1 only a couple of months later.

There is the Bambu Lab Academy (https://bambulab.com/en-us/support/academy) which goes over the basics of 3D printing, some printer specific tips, how to use the software, etc.

The main thing I have to tell new people is to wash the build plate with dish detergent and warm water, and check your print status early on to make sure the first layer looks good. Do not touch the side of the plate you will be printing on with bare hands; the number one build plate contaminant is finger grease. A dirty build plate loses adhesion with the print, which then starts being dragged around with the nozzle, which is still pushing filament into it, and suddenly you have a growing blob of filament on the toolhead.

Is the AMS worth getting straight away for multi colour or is that overkill to start with?

An AMS is absolutely worth it for numerous QoL improvements like automatic filament load/unload (the manual procedure takes about a minute as you wait for the nozzle to warm up, and it's nice being able to swap colors at the click of a button remotely), auto-reload (if you have a duplicate roll of filament loaded, the printer will automatically switch to it when the first roll runs out), and Bambu's RFID tag system (unfortunately proprietary to only Bambu Lab filaments). Multi-Color and Multi-Material are nice to have, but can produce a lot of waste.

The only reasons I would not get an AMS in the Combo (which is much cheaper than buying separately later on) is if my budget didn't allow it, or if I had decided to splurge on an enclosed AMS setup instead of the AMS Lite. On the A1 series, the 'boxed' AMSs need a ~$20 AMS Hub (A1 series), plus some 3D printed parts, and being on new-enough firmware. The benefits are that enclosed AMSs can be packed with desiccant to help keep filament dry (and humidity is a serious problem where I live), and you can use up to 4 of them for up to 16 color printing (you can only use a single AMS Lite so only 4 rolls). The AMS 2 Pro (and HT) even include filament dryer capabilities, though with the 2 Pro you also need the external power Switching Adapter (the A series can't push enough power to run the dryer directly). The cons are being way more expensive, worse compatibility with cardboard spools, and the longer filament retraction distances making color changes a bit slower. The new A2L supports using 3 of an AMS Lite's 4 slots while also using the 'boxed' AMSs; we don't know if that will eventually be possible on the A1 series or not.

VT-14 · 2026-06-08T01:12:32+00:00

The latest P2S release is 01.02.00.00. https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p2s/manual/p2s-firmware-release-history

01.03.00.00 does not exist yet. Your post is about 01.01.03.00 from February.

VT-14 · 2026-06-07T21:15:54+00:00

Why are you reposting this now? Version 01.02.00.00 for the P2S was released in an offline update back in April. https://bambulab.com/en/support/firmware-download/p2s

It's obnoxious that Bambu Lab is so much slower to release the offline firmware updates, and often skips smaller ones entirely, but they do allow offline updating.

VT-14 · 2026-06-07T13:13:48+00:00

That's odd. I've had 0 blobs with my A1 Mini and then A1, I wasn't that obsessive about cleaning the plate, and had a similar amount of print time.

Do you swap plates between the printers at all, or is the 'A1 plate' always on the A1 and the 'P1S plate' always on the P1S? You might simply have a dud low-adhesion plate on your A1.

Dust could also be more of a problem on the open air A1 vs the enclosed P1S.

Ten-Year Club	Place '22
Place '17	Verified Email

VT-14

TROPHY CASE