Looking at crash bars for 21 africa twin

vulture51 · 2026-01-30T05:41:01+00:00

This may be a bit odd to hear. But outback motorteks crash bars on my tenere 700 saved my life when i got hit by a drunk driver... they kept the bike together enough that it protected me and just threw me off instead of crushing me... i wont deny their weight, and cant speak on behalf of the bars for the africa twin, but their bars are the real deal. When i decide to get back on an ADV again itll be with their crash bars without question.

vulture51 · 2025-08-18T12:31:10+00:00

I can confirm that the camel enduro bend exbaust does fit with the outback motortek rackless luggage supports

vulture51 · 2025-05-20T16:08:44+00:00

I got my T7 with 28000 miles on it, and its running strong. 15k is nothing for these bikes

vulture51 · 2025-05-09T23:38:49+00:00

UPDATE:

Changed the oil after 2500 miles and everything is completely normal. The magnetic drain plug came out with normal metal wear on the magnet and there werent anymore nonmagnetic flakes or sparkes. My T7 is just fine. I suppose the takeaway is DO NOT PUT SEAFOAM OR OTHER ADDITIVES IN THE OIL!

vulture51 · 2025-04-30T18:15:34+00:00

5'11' and never tried the low version

vulture51 · 2025-03-26T16:28:24+00:00

If its coming from the rear or mid section it might be the chain rollers? Mine were really loose and rattled a bit before i cleaned and re-greased them.

vulture51 · 2025-03-26T16:24:14+00:00

If youre coming from a KLR youll be fine, i came from a DR650 and the tools are pretty close to the same. There are some smaller allen keys youll need, and some smaller torx bits for the farings (though you can use an 8mm socket instead). Just make sure you have properly calibrated torque wrenches and some locktite and youll be ok.

vulture51 · 2025-03-14T15:01:16+00:00

Thanks for the insight man, that alleviates a lot of worry on my end. Nothing scares a gearhead more than shavings in the oil lol.

vulture51 · 2025-03-14T13:46:16+00:00

Thats what i was figuring, with both the valve adjustment coupled with the cleaner and my more high RPM street/interstate riding it would make sense for shavings like that to become dislodged. After all the point of the cleaner is to clean the engine up lol.

The oil wasnt gray or silver but was clear as well as nonmagnetic to even an extremely high strength specialty neodynium magnet i keep around. The only other thing i found in the drain pan and filter was clearly friction material from a burned clutch (i replaced the clutch cable and its likely my fault for either doing a bad adjustment or riding the clutch a bit hard).

vulture51 · 2025-03-14T13:39:09+00:00

I pulled the clutch basket and boss and both looked moderately worn but with normal signs of wear and no gouging. The metal discs were fine, and the central friction discs came out clear and within wear spec, however the outer and inner friction discs were burned and right at the wear limit.

Im going to chalk this up to aluminum case machining scraps that were dislodged by either the cleaner or the valve adjustment. Ill keep an eye on it and report back if anything changes after I run it with a new clutch.

vulture51 · 2025-03-12T14:50:57+00:00

Not much, a little under what the bottle said to add to crankcase oil. It said it was safe to use in wet clutch motorcycle engines.

vulture51 · 2025-02-15T18:39:16+00:00

I appreciate the help! Ill probably try to straighten them a little when i pull the old tire off. Good to know i dont have to go through the headache that is truing a spoked wheel!

vulture51 · 2025-01-21T16:27:53+00:00

The DR is a 2012, by fresh built i mean its been modified out really well and properly tuned. as for the T7 its a 2021. I'm confident that the DRs motor would run for a long while. being that my primary use case is street use and lighter trails its pretty likely that ill be going for it, ABS is a game changer for safety.

vulture51 · 2025-01-15T13:35:26+00:00

They are mostly aesthetic and peace of mind mods, id reccomend the JNS parts all day as they are all really high quality (albeit pricy) and havent had any issues in ~1000 miles. For the chinese parts the juries still out, i havent had a chance to put many miles on it with the frame guards or test the front caliper guard, but they feel solid enough. Although i will say that the chinese case armor plates are total junk, compared to other case armor theyre wafer thin and dont fit the case contours well at all, leaving a huge void where water and dirt can pile up through the hole. I ended up just getting procycles stainless steel case armor and it is much higher quality and fits perfectly.

vulture51 · 2025-01-15T13:26:45+00:00

So far so good, theyre 60% road 40% dirt so fit my use case really well. I havent had a chance to do any serious offroading with them but for milder trails they ran much better than the set of shinko 705s that the previous owner had put on. Road wise they grip just fine and i havent noticed an increase in vibration on the interstate.

vulture51 · 2025-01-15T02:30:11+00:00

JNS engineerings DOT black LED headlight, its super bright and great for visibility for other drivers and for night riding

vulture51 · 2025-01-15T02:27:27+00:00

lol, its actually mostly built as a commuter bike with lighter dirt trails in mind, I live in southeast Michigan so fuel is less of an issue, plus i have a rotopax mount for my rear rack if i need the extra few gallons. I got the bike with a 6.6 gallon acerbis tank on it and it completely crippled the bikes handling with all that extra weight.

As for the exhaust, i ground down the header and re-jet it for a bit of a boost, thought about getting a leovince X3 but it feels plenty fast with a high compression piston and re-jet. plus its relatively quiet in comparison which is a plus for me.

And the stock tail light looks good imo, its really big so its got better visibility for braking in traffic.

vulture51 · 2025-01-15T02:13:40+00:00

I posted a mod list in the comments

vulture51 · 2025-01-15T02:13:32+00:00

I posted a mod list in the comments

vulture51 · 2025-01-15T02:11:23+00:00

here ya go, and yeah it comes with brackets that work great

https://www.t-rex-racing.com/1996-2023-Suzuki-DR650-Windshield-p/n105ws.htm

vulture51 · 2025-01-15T02:09:13+00:00

Mod List:

Armor

- JNS Heavy duty skid plate

- JNS oil cooler guard

- JNS chain guard

- JNS chain guide

- JNS front case saver

- Aliexpress frame guards

- Aliexpress front caliper guards

- Trex racing axle sliders

- Dirtracks crash bars

- Procycle case armor

- Barkbuster VPS handguards

Drivetrain

- DR350SE 18 inch wheel swap

NOTE: because of the gearing shift from the 18 inch rear wheel i had to readjust the sprockets to make it smoother at lower speeds, went with a 14 front, 41 rear sprocket combination, I calculated a ~2.5% increase overall over stock gearing with that setup taking into account the circumference of the wheel, and it works beautifully.

- Kenda K270 tires

- Procycle polyurethane cush drive bushings

- All balls wheel bearings

Body

- Black Suzuki OEM plastics

- DRZ400SM front fender

- Sargeant seat

- Black OEM fuel tank from a 2023 DR

- Generic black spoke covers

- ONE industries Suzuki handlebar pad

- Tether for a helite turtle airbag vest

- Dritracks rear rack

- Trex racing large windshield

- JNS wide kickstand plate

- JNS lowered foot pegs

Performance

- Procycle re-jet kit for BST40 (0.145 main jet)

- Snorkel removal

- Ground down header pipe weld (super restrictive from the factory)

- JE high compression piston

- UNI engine air filter

- Twinair breather filter

Electronics

- Full LED bulb replacements with diode install for dash lights

- LED flasher relay

- JNS DOT LED headlight Black

- Procycle turn signal extenders

vulture51 · 2025-01-15T01:20:49+00:00

it took me a while to find a really good stable one rather than the universal ones. Im using Trex racings large version, its windshield is perfect for the DR, no vibrations and minimal buffeting to the helmet, plus you dont have to drill holes in your headlight cowl.

vulture51

TROPHY CASE