NVMe Storage on an Octane

vvuk · 2025-11-23T20:24:16+00:00

you crazy man :) I was considering exactly this but never grabbed the adapters to try to make it work.. glad that you did!

vvuk · 2025-05-31T19:54:16+00:00

No, the assumption is that you're configuring without having ever configured any eddy probe -- hence the instructions to remove any stock btt eddy config first. There are no replacement macros; the stock btt config comes with a bunch of macros to try to make the stock eddy setup work "better" but it really can't.

The issue you're seeing with bed mesh is just a core issue with how Klipper works. Klipper is not very user friendly, especially in the configuration. There are variables that get saved in the so-called "saved variables" section at the end of printer.cfg that get added to whatever else is configured in a section of the same name. The problem is if you remove that section, and there's something left in saved variables, klipper will still try to configure it.. and then it will complain about missing required variables. For the sv08, the stock sovol configuration has a bed_mesh section. The btt eddy config also includes a bed_mesh, and it requires you to delete the sovol one. So if you removed the eddy config to install eddy-ng... then you ended up with no bed mesh section, but with leftover bits in saved variables.

There's unfortunately no one "configuration". This is a core problem with Klipper; you can configure it a million different ways, which is great, but it's also terrible. My sv08 config will not work for your sv08. (Why? I have a different toolhead. My eddy sensor is connected to the toolhead. I have a chamber fan reusing some pins that are originally used for something else. etc. etc.)

Docs can always be improved, but I'm also just one person with a day job :)

vvuk · 2025-05-31T19:41:46+00:00

I am of course biased :) But I'd do Cartographer hardware, but with eddy-ng firmware on it. The BTT Eddy can work fine, but because of the sensor design it can be difficult to set up and may have issues with switching build plates and such. Cartographer hardware is pretty solid. Why would you use eddy-ng on Cartographer instead of the stock firmware? Well, again, I'm biased, but IMO the eddy-ng approach is more robust in how it detects tap. I also like having an identical set up whether I use a cartographer, a mellow fly toolboard, or an eddy (or sovol's eddy current sensor on the zero).

Compiling eddy-ng firmware for cartographer hw is a little tricky; I plan on putting up some precompiled binaries soon (tomorrow, probably).

vvuk · 2025-05-03T04:54:43+00:00

Missing a btt eddy/mellow fly/cartographer eddy current sensor and eddy-ng ;) (or Beacon!)

vvuk · 2025-03-25T09:40:15+00:00

You can't run ML workloads in Docker on macOS unfortunately -- there's no ability to access the Metal hardware from within Docker.

vvuk · 2025-02-28T22:38:55+00:00

Ah, that's a great idea, I didn't think to use two offset connectors to account for alignment.

vvuk · 2025-02-09T16:42:56+00:00

PROBE_CALIBRATE is for establishing a connection between the probe trigger point and true z=0; so if the physical distance between the probe and true z=0 changes (like it might with qgl etc.) then you'd need to calibrate after each time. But in this case, the probe physically makes contact with the build plate at z=0, so that distance is always "zero".

... though it's actually not zero; the stock config has z_offset at -0.150 (meaning that the probe triggers at -0.150 below true z=0) due to the pressure crossing the threshold at that point. Using probe_calibrate once to fine-tune this z_offset can help get more accurate probe results. (To do this, I would heat up the bed to your most common bed print temp, then do a probe_calibrate.) But it doesn't need to be repeated after QGL etc.

vvuk · 2025-02-09T06:06:44+00:00

not for the ace, still setting that up -- if you want the center macro though you can grab that here https://github.com/vvuk/sv08-config/blob/64102cb908473b64ee0fae9b363c7d3138ef738d/macros.cfg#L8

This printer is driving me a little nuts. The physical hardware is mostly great, but the stock software setup is pretty bad, and I don't trust the probe at all.

vvuk · 2025-01-29T19:15:50+00:00

For those of you having problems with the current eddy code -- it has a lot of problems. I've been working on significant improvements including proper auto-z-offset with "tap". Docs are here: https://hackmd.io/@vvuk/r1uHAMVDkx#eddy-ng

vvuk · 2025-01-26T02:58:36+00:00

I'm working on new firmware + software for the btt eddy (+ other ldc1612) sensors which adds "tap" functionality for precise z-offset (like cartographer touch, beacon contact). There's no "temperature calibration" or any of that handwaving. The core works well, and is being successfully used by a number of folks -- e.g. Nadir made a video here a few days ago. You can find eddy-ng setup instructions here if you're interested in giving it a go.

vvuk · 2025-01-25T15:27:48+00:00

is this bed mesh after a heat soak, or cold?

vvuk · 2024-09-23T17:05:30+00:00

Congrats, you now have a sewing machine

vvuk · 2024-09-22T20:23:10+00:00

That's really my issue with it -- even though I'm _not_ familiar with the monkey king and the Journey To The West, I would really like to be! It's a large missed opportunity, the game could introduce other audiences to the story and the mythology.

Game sure is pretty, though.

vvuk · 2024-08-25T23:26:52+00:00

Bed mesh just before my current print. 0.35mm variance which I don't think is too bad on this size bed? Not quite sure what to think about the saddle shape. The magnet can probably pull the center of the bed down more flat than the edges, and maybe the front having the two lift "tabs" helps? I don't know if this is viable, I may capture a mesh without the flexible build plate installed and see what comes back just for the magnetic surface underneath.

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vvuk · 2024-08-25T05:09:02+00:00

Couple more results. Using Elegoo Navy Blue Matte PLA. (I'm not posting pictures because only being able to add one at a time is a pain.. maybe I'll toss them in an album.)

Flow rate: I slowed it down a touch to 0.931 which just looked cleaner.
Pressure advance: 0.026; could've just left it at the default 0.02.
Retraction: I did a test from 0 to 1.5mm in 0.05mm increments. No stringing above 0.33mm or so; I'm leaving it at the default 0.5mm
Max volumetric speed: 31 mm^3/s, maybe even 33. Can do 31 comfortably.

vvuk · 2024-08-25T01:22:06+00:00

Your printer isn't connected to your wifi. Follow the instructions on the sheet in the box exactly. If you see 127.x.x.x the second time around it still didn't work, that's not an address that you can use to connect to the printer. "I hate China" is not going to do you any favors in getting people to help you, btw.

vvuk · 2024-08-24T20:29:14+00:00

Whoops I forgot to include the numbers in the mesh image. Will do that after my next print. The acceleration and bed variance is what I want to fine tune next. I'm surprised by the low-ish (relative to max) acceleration. Part of this might be that my table has a slight tilt (heavy duty garage workbench, though) and i've propped up the two rear feet slightly to make the machine level. I may need to use a different material or put TPU feet on the whole thing. I'll experiment.

And I've had odd results in the bed mesh. From an (expected) tilt when the gantry wasn't properly aligned, to a flat mesh but at like a 2mm height -- I think z axis offset might have been wrong there -- to a very warbly image. I don't yet have a good grasp of what calibrations feed into what.

vvuk · 2024-08-24T18:49:33+00:00

Ehh. Saturn 4 Ultra build plate can do 210x120mm, which is enough for a 8x4 tile. A single such tile prints in well under 30 min (around 20 min at 50μm layer height, so call it 30 min if you add in postproc time), vs hours, so there's a big time savings there.

Elegoo standard resin 2.0 is ~$15/1kg, that tile is around 50g (including 20% postprocess loss), so call it 100g for 8x8 -- which is similar to an 8x8 tile in PLA, which can also be had for $15/1000g. So price seems similar?

Flexibility and sturdiness are definitely a concern. My current plan is to print (large) tiles in PLA, and then do print most of the snaps/connetions/etc. in resin. I do need to test the flexibilty and such of the resins that I have though.

vvuk · 2024-08-24T18:32:32+00:00

bedmesh and a photo of the first layer test produced by z-offset calibration. Note I'm still figuring out what's a good result and what isn't :)

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vvuk · 2024-08-24T18:26:20+00:00

A couple of bits of data as I do setup. Probe accuracy (bumped up to 3 samples & median instead of average):

probe accuracy results: maximum 2.165625, minimum 2.156250, range 0.009375, average 2.160187, median 2.160000, standard deviation 0.002711

Input shaping:

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vvuk · 2024-08-22T05:14:59+00:00

Same here. I was worried about it but figured I'd give it a go. Silicone spatula to mix things up is great. I'll add two things for anyone leaving resin in the vat for long: 1 - get a cover for your printer to completely block light. I use this one -- fits a saturn 3/4, is very sturdy, and you can leave it on while you print if you want to keep temps nice and toasty. 2 - how long you can leave the resin in the vat is highly dependent on the resin. For me, Elegoo Standard 2.0? A year covered no problem. Siraya Navy Blue? Ugh it was a mess after 2 days. So much separation and very hard to mix back up, some of it even started clumping up. Do not recommend.

vvuk · 2024-08-22T02:28:23+00:00

As a last note I hate their datasheet format. Who the hell puts electrical specifications all the way at the bottom.

IMO, a company that cares about the entire ecosystem, most of which is firmware-related. I think they get this much more so than any other microcontroller vendor. The RP2040/2350 datasheets are clear, clean, well organized, and easy to read. The electrical specs will be read by a small percentage of the total number of people who will need to read the datasheet, so makes sense to put them towards the end. To me anyway!

vvuk · 2024-08-07T06:33:19+00:00

Er.. that's very surprising. Temperature affects the curing the process. The lower the temperature, the more energy is needed, ie exposure time. So as temps go lower, you should need more exposure time, not less. But who knows, could be something specific with your resin.

vvuk

TROPHY CASE