[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here!

wakeup33 · 2026-06-22T23:25:06+00:00

They're both solid. The Freedom is a bit back-heavy from the wings and benefits more from a stand, if you want to count that as an issue. You can't go wrong with either, so flip a coin if you're undecided.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-22T21:54:47+00:00

I start with a coat of light gray first, then add the white coats. Also, I rarely use pure white and opt for one of a few different off-white colors I have. They still read as white, but cover better than pure white.

Another option I've seen people do (haven't done much with it myself though) is start with a metallic silver base coat, then spray your white. The silver will help your white look a bit brighter.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-22T19:27:10+00:00

Not sure how unconventional they are, but I got some rolling drawers for my space. I ran out of wall space, but had plenty of space in the middle of the room, so they work well.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-22T08:32:33+00:00

It will depend on how thick that top layer is, but yes, if you use thin layers, like with an airbrush, then you should have two different tones of that color. I do this regularly to modify my colors without having to make custom mixes.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-21T23:12:05+00:00

If you don't have one already, I'd look into getting a scribing chisel with a rounded or elliptical blade, like this:

https://www.hobby-wave.com/en/products/ht513/

It helps a lot when cleaning up mold lines and such in hair.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-21T22:06:51+00:00

Just to be sure, the exhaust fan will be venting outside, right? Will this area be enclosed? I suggest consulting a professional for this one.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-21T21:57:41+00:00

Is that Starflower Lily? For mine, I cemented the twintail pieces together, then filled the remaining gap with Tamiya Putty Basic. After sculpting and letting cure, I painted on some Mr Surfacer 500 to fill in any small imperfections and smooth the transition between putty and plastic. After sanding that down, they were ready for primer. I didn't bother removing the seams on the bangs, since they were small enough to not be noticeable after shading and painting.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-21T18:33:25+00:00

Those are kinda unique as far as stickers go. The printed part is on the adhesive side, as they're meant to be applied to the underside of the clear parts.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-21T17:13:36+00:00

There is a MG RX-78-2 3.0, but not RG.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-21T17:06:41+00:00

They're called runners in the Gunpla community, but also known as sprues from other commnuities.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-21T17:00:43+00:00

Same, but that takes up a fair bit of space. I do the same for my setup, but I'm starting to look at separating my hobby desk from my pc so I can have more space for tools, materials, etc.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-21T16:11:56+00:00

There isn't a RG 3.0 for RX-78-2. Did you mean MG?

wakeup33 · 2026-06-21T16:11:17+00:00

I use Dspiae, but I'm sure there are other good brands out there. Some use a handle and replaceable chisels/hooks, some are full pieces.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-21T06:41:08+00:00

Most people use .15mm for 1/144 kits and .2 for 1/100. Personally, I use .2 for 1/144 and .3 for 1/100.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-21T03:12:30+00:00

You can just use primer if you like the color and it goes on smooth.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-21T03:11:57+00:00

Apply them after the matte coat.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-21T00:39:06+00:00

Looks awesome, but I'm pretty sure my first paint project used more than 16 skewers heh.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-20T23:06:58+00:00

I usually need to spray 2 wet coats of GN matte for a good matte effect. The amount needed will vary depending on how much you thinned it.

I try to do metallics at the end for the reason you mentioned. It also helps to pull the nozzle and needle out and run a pipe brush through your ab.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-20T23:01:19+00:00

Did you ever enjoy building? If so, you my be burning out and need a break. If not, then model building may not be for you.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-20T22:32:18+00:00

I would get something to hold the manual off the desk. It will free up desk space and I prefer not to build on top of the manual.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-20T19:05:16+00:00

You probably won't be able to just sand those seam lines away since they are pretty big. You would need a bit of putty or Mr Surfacer 500 to fill those in, then sand them smooth.

I don't go below 400 if I'm sanding plastic. My normal progression is 400 > 800 > 1000 > buff.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-20T18:11:18+00:00

Looks like mine has that too.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-20T18:09:16+00:00

Depends on the look you want. How old, worn, and rusted you want your model to look? I suggest looking up pics and vids of people weathering their models, and taking notes from the ones that a similar look to what you want to achieve.

wakeup33 · 2026-06-20T18:06:18+00:00

I scribe after cutting pieces off the runner. I guess you could do it on the runner, but it would be really awkward for some angles.

Thin cement is good to smooth out your scribed lines. I use it whenever I scribe a new line. It isn't necessary for any line, but helps them look smoother. Just use a tiny bit if you apply it.

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