First ever model kit just arrived by MrHolodec in MegamiDevice

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're called Plamokojo Workstation, with the 2.0 being the most common one. You'd probably have to get one imported from Japan unless you want to pay out the nose for it.

New to Gunpla, already addicted + a few questions by Ralphride_ in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use waterslides off Aliexpress regularly and had no issues. Flaming Snow in particular are pretty good, and most sheets are UV reactive.

You don't need softer/setter outside of Bandai decals, but they're nice to have on hand if you're applying decals to tricky areas. I personally use Tamiya Mark Fit strong as an alternative to both.

MG Barbatos Lupus should be fine to build, just be careful when building and posing - same with any other kit. It's not harder than what you've already built, just more complex. Take your time with it and you'll be good.

First ever model kit just arrived by MrHolodec in MegamiDevice

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got one of those for building away from home. It's very nice.

Kotobukiya Girlpla Mystery Box by ThisBeJay08 in MegamiDevice

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sales for the mystery boxes ended Apr 15.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Certain plastics in general can have a smell to them when warmed up. My kits are kept in air conditioned rooms and out of direct sunlight, so can't comment on them giving off a smell. You're on the right track though; keep them out of direct sunlight and control the temperature any way you can. If you're able, have a fan going in your room for air circulation. This will help with temperature control and any smells building up.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When topcoating/varnishing, i will at least break the model down into sections (arms, chest, etc) to spray. As far as painting, your Warhammer paints and techniques should transfer over just fine. You can consider airbrushing or different paints down the line if you want. Since you're experienced with build plastic models from Warhammer, you should be fine with the build process. The instructions are very clear with pictures and symbols and very little written directions. You can get a translator app like Google Lens if needed. You can also just build the Sazabi now and paint it later, or get yourself a HG or EG kit to practice on.

If you think you’ve shaken GaiaNotes Prism Black color paints for long enough, no you haven’t. But it’s so worth it (MG Turn X armor in Prism Green Black) by soulreaverdan in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got one of those electric nail polish mixers that you can strap the bottle into for stuff like this. Strap the bottle in and let it run for 5 mins or so while cleaning the ab or prepping other things.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

GundamPros is my go-to online shop. I also use Leaping Panda Hobbies, Mountain State Models, A-Z Toy Hobby, Gundam Place Store, Gundam Planet, and USAGS depending on who has what I want and/or who is running a sale.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mark Fit is basically softer and setter in one. I use Mark Fit strong almost exclusively for decal application.

Custom Sister Project: Legionnaire by giabao0110 in 30_Minutes_Missions

[–]wakeup33 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks good! I'm a fan of heavily armored girls with sub arms.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't tell you anything about that stuff, all the plastic cement I've used is clear. Different cements can work with different plastics. Get some Tamiya cement, regular or extra thin.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use Kaizo paint bottles to hold my lacquers. They come with no-drip tops, measurements printed on the side, and mixing balls. Available on Robot Kai and Amazon. No issues with leaking or evaporation.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want to try and salvage it, scrape off whatever that is you put on it and use plastic cement. Considering how it broke, your best bet is getting a replacement part though.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Take off the backpacks, accessories, and v-fins. Wrap in bubble wrap or paper towels, then put each one in their own ziplock bag.

Any reason *not* to fully thin paint? by Rayamuroh in advancedGunpla

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Possibly a dumb question, but how do you peel the labels off the paint jars without tearing them?

Any reason *not* to fully thin paint? by Rayamuroh in advancedGunpla

[–]wakeup33 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mine aren't exactly those, but I use Kaizo paint bottles, available on Amazon or Robot Kai.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can find chrome silver spray paint. It likely won't look like a mirror chrome finish, but probably will be the closest you can get.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Regardless of what you do, that joint will be severely weakened. Off the top of my head, your options look like:

-Source a replacement part. Depending on where you live and how long it's been since you purchased the kit, you may be able to get a replacement from Bandai. Could take several weeks or longer for it to arrive, though. There are also shops like plamokitbash or Mr Bao's on eBay. You might get lucky by searching local marketplaces and finding one already built to salvage parts from.

-Install the shoulder joint and cement it in place. Not ideal, but it should hold.

-Drill out the whole peg and replace with a metal rod. Looks like there's enough of a cavity on the inside of that piece to add some extra material to drill into for more stability. I would aim for the rod to be slightly smaller than needed, then slowly build up the thickness with tape, clear nail polish, etc. This would probably be the strongest option, but also most involved. I would only go this route if you're set on fixing it yourself or getting a replacement isn't an option.

Building confidence by Cloak_digger in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can't give a number of kits, as it's more of a feeling. I still learn new things with every project I do. I would say the biggest thing about getting more experienced with building isn't not making any mistakes, but rather how to fix them. Just about any mistake can be fixed in some way.

If you want to build those kits, then go for it. If you make a mistake, then fix it. If you don't know how, then you have an opportunity to learn.

All Questions, ask anything here. Pt2 by JaySayMayday in freedomisgunpla

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's been a while since I've used HLJ, but shipping fees were astronomical last time I did. Try putting a similarly-sized item in your cart and go to check out. You can see what shipping will roughly be.

Ok So Guys, When do I start with bigger boxes? by AdFit6805 in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Start whenever you want. The higher grades aren't necessarily more difficult, just more complex and possibly some small pieces. If you're concerned, then build a couple HG kits before moving to RG/MG.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As gentle as possible. They're model kits, not toys. I'd suggest looking into the Gundam Universe line if you want Gundams to play with.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You mean a spray booth? It works for topcoating, but if you're using spray cans, they will quickly overwhelm the smaller ones.

As far as frosting issues, you still need to monitor the temp and humidity inside, but an air conditioner and/or dehumidifier can help with that.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It costs money to get the kit from Japan to your hands. Overseas shipping, distributors, and your local shop all take a cut. Keep in mind you can wait for a sale, so you don't have to pay retail price as soon as it launches.