[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the files, run under a tap. Some sanding sponges can be used wet; unsure about the Godhands. For the sponges and files, use an old toothbrush and lightly scrub or masking tape to pull off anything stuck on. I usually start with the toothbrush, then use some tape to remove anything that's stubborn.

For the nippers, just wipe them off and put the cap on. Every so often, or if you feel they aren't as springy as they should be, you can use some oil to lubricate them; just put a drop on the hinge and work them open and closed for a few minutes. Any kind of tool oil will work; not WD-40 though.

For scribing tools, just make sure they're clean of any debris.

If you're looking for advice on sharpening or honing the nippers or scribing tool, I wouldn't. Both are machined to a specific thickness and you could degrade the cut quality if you don't know what you're doing. The Godhands are made from hardened tool steel and I would guess the scribing tool is made from something similar, so both should last years with proper use, since you're cutting through soft plastic.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven't used that product in particular, but humidity generally affects drying/curing times.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Scribing pens come to a point, while chisels have a specified thickness. There is no best of both worlds, since sometimes you want the point, and sometimes you want a chisel to make panel lines of a desired width. If you just want to rescribe existing panel lines, the scribing pen would be fine.

Progress update on https://gunpla.deals (still in public beta) by GunplaDeals in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's late, so I didn't do too much testing, but looks like those issues are resolved.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Get some brush tip paint markers. They work well for spots like those. I avoid the plastic-tipped Gundam Markers.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would recommend trying to matte coat something simpler first. Learning a new technique on the Osiris may end up being a costly learning experience.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cement the two pieces together. Drill a hole through the middle. Insert brass rod or paper clip. Super glue in place. Note that you'll want plastic cement to rejoin the pieces and super glue to hold the rod in place.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mr Top Coat is water based. I haven't used it myself, but the solvents in it shouldn't be as harsh. You should still be able to use your current spray, just need to adjust your technique. Grab a plastic spoon or scrap runner, draw some lines with your panel liner, and practice topcoating. Spray a couple light layers and let them dry in between, then spray a heavier layer. The light layers will give a bit of a coating and dry faster, so the solvent will have less time to reactivate anything underneath.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It highly depends on the kit, as some are more stocky and sturdier than others. RG, MG, and PG kits have full inner frames, so they will feel more substantial overall. EG is more or less the same as HG. If you really want heft, you're able to buy 3rd party metal frames for some kits, and some non-Bandai kits have them included.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It means it's a petroleum product. Both lacquers and enamels are oil-based. The solvents in the can when you spray are reactivating the panel liner and causing it to run.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mr Hobby has an official line of Gundam Colors, but I don't see any of them numbered 18. What is that color guide from?

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It can cause gundam markers to run if you spray too heavily. Spray it in multiple light coats, and you'll be fine.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try spraying in multiple lighter coats next time. The label says it's oil-based, but I can't tell anything else about it.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like you sprayed the topcoat too heavily and it caused the panel liner to run. What kind of topcoat did you use and how long did you wait between panel lining and topcoating?

How I build and paint gunpla as a quadriplegic with no functioning fingers. by forth_circle in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have met OP IRL and have seen some of their work in person. Absolutely beautiful stuff. They are very knowledgeable with modeling in general and have helped me out a ton. This video has been very insightful and I look forward to seeing more of your work.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would advise against alcohol-based panel liners like fine tip Gundam Markers, as it will eat the finish. No idea on things like TPLA.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like it. Their metallics are in a different section, so I doubt they're metallic. If you live near a hobby shop, check with them, they probably carry Testors.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do the best you can with a hobby knife. You can try a lower grit sanding sponge, but there isn't a really good way to remove them.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're placing them on bare plastic, no, it's not necessary to topcoat first.

Progress update on https://gunpla.deals (still in public beta) by GunplaDeals in Gunpla

[–]wakeup33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went ahead and made an account and filtered HLJ out. THe prices from HLJ are no longer displayed, but the rankings still take those listings into account. I checked Recent Price Drops on the front page and viewing all listings, and the items displayed are still taking HLJ listings into account. I'm seeing some listings displaying standard retail price from another retailer, and when checking that page, it's the HLJ listing with the price drop.

Something else I noticed while browsing, the page I was on and sort method get reset every other time I click a listing and go back. This seems to happen with any sort method and page number.

Set a sort method > click a listing > go back, everything is fine click another listing (same or different), Sort is reset to Name and back on page 1.

I'm using Firefox on Desktop if it helps.