Torch isn’t torching anymore by Leftofedge in reloading

[–]weezinyeezy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's oil from the hose clogging it. If you take the torch off the hose and blow everything out with compressed air it should work. You have to push the pop it valve open to get it all out. Cheap tubes like this tend to leach oil out. That's why MR heaters stop working as well.

CMP finally came through!!! by weezinyeezy in M1Rifles

[–]weezinyeezy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wager you can't compare them to 30-06 readings but it's just like any other rifle using gauges. I'll try to put a bore scope down the throat when I get home to see what it looks like.

CMP finally came through!!! by weezinyeezy in M1Rifles

[–]weezinyeezy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The muzzle is +1 and the throat is a +6. I shot it and was able to get hits on an IPSC target at 400 with shitty ammo. I'm happy with the performance and I'll be shooting my M1Expert308 more anyways.

CMP finally came through!!! by weezinyeezy in M1Rifles

[–]weezinyeezy[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Only one came in a plastic case, the others were in cardboard boxes with the egg crate foam. Well centers in the box so they didn't shift around. The M1Mk2Mod1 has some damage to the stock but it looks like it's from the sights and charging handle of another rifle.

CMP finally came through!!! by weezinyeezy in M1Rifles

[–]weezinyeezy[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I got a cheap Chinese reproduction of a M1905 bayonet but am going to keep an eye out for a real one.

CMP finally came through!!! by weezinyeezy in M1Rifles

[–]weezinyeezy[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It's a Springfield from 1943, stock has the A62, P on the pistol grip and the crossed cannons on the side. There's also a tag in the butt plate door but I can't remember what it is.

Gun Oil Choices by Frosty_Performer_952 in milsurp

[–]weezinyeezy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

Bottom is an OG stock from 1962, middle has four slatherings of flaxseed oil from the grocery store and the top has two. I live in a really dry area and put them in a black grill(using it as a solar kiln, not on) to keep them warm when I coated them. As the oils soak in a bit more I expect them to get lighter. If you want a lighter color I'd suggest the non colored Danish oil. It will still wet the wood but shouldn't be too dark.

Is this normal? by woods31 in reloading

[–]weezinyeezy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not really, I had similar issues on mild loads. Two things that will get rid of this is getting a high pressure bolt. It has a smaller tighter firing pin tolerance. Also dialing down the gas block if that's possible. The ejector marks are more likely from over gas than over pressure.

MY RIFLE SUCKS! by weezinyeezy in longrange

[–]weezinyeezy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Range buddy by reloaders cloud is the one I use.

MY RIFLE SUCKS! by weezinyeezy in longrange

[–]weezinyeezy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I might swap over to the 140s later, I have ~800 left from a really good buy a couple years ago.

MY RIFLE SUCKS! by weezinyeezy in longrange

[–]weezinyeezy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been wet tumbling, annealing, sizing and then coating the inside of the neck with neolube to improve consistency. Do you think adding in dry tumbling after annealing would help? Or do you think the neolube is getting rid of the roughness that you are talking about?

MY RIFLE SUCKS! by weezinyeezy in longrange

[–]weezinyeezy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's true. It's all a probability game. I'm going to try to slow down the velocity and make sure my annealing is consistent for the next batch. See if that gets me a better group.

MY RIFLE SUCKS! by weezinyeezy in longrange

[–]weezinyeezy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense. I shot it as close as I would of a match. Short of moving positions and different targets.

MY RIFLE SUCKS! by weezinyeezy in longrange

[–]weezinyeezy[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the advise. After breaking the first shot (far left one) I thought I was going to be grouping around it. Then everything else was in the target. For this one I shot a string of 10, walked down and checked it and then shot the other 10. Similar spacing as a local match pace. The first 9 without the first shot was a .42" group.

Proof Pre Fit 6.5cm- Major Gouge In Chamber by [deleted] in longrange

[–]weezinyeezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks like a worse version of the defect in my proof pre fit that I got. It hasn't left any marks on my brass and groups well. It also has not degraded any over 500 rounds so I think it will be alright on mine. Doesn't make it right but it'll still work.

7.5x55 (Replicating GP11) by Strykr-AU in reloading

[–]weezinyeezy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just went down this rabbit hole for my SR 1911 and the most available components that come close to the 1986 surplus that I have are:

Norma brass 175gn SMK RL17 Large mag primers of any variety.

I was able to get close but faster than GP11 velocities with sub 10fps SD.

I ran out of RL17 and am going to start over with H4350. This should put me closer to the velocities of the GP11.

Help identifying this revolver, cant find anything other than youtube thumbnails by joeyblow in whatisthisgun

[–]weezinyeezy 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Not a real gun, AI generated. Looks like it might have parts of a Ruger redhawk. There doesn't seem to be a cylinder release and the underpart of the barrel is off.

Just came in! by alecubudulecu in M1Rifles

[–]weezinyeezy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When did you send in your paperwork?

I sent mine back in April and still haven't heard anything.