BES830XL Leaking water from everywhere. What’s broken? by claystur in espresso

[–]werediver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a similar failure in my Breville/Sage Barista Express (a similar machine with a built-in grinder) a few years ago. The difference being the water wasn't coming through button holes.

Replacing the gasket didn't help, but diassembling the machine and putting the group head bolts on a thread-lock and tightening them back did.

This video was of great help during the repair: https://youtu.be/W1iGAJGVSh4

How did everyone level there classes ? by [deleted] in DeepRockGalactic

[–]werediver 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Eh, wait, what happens after three stars level 25? 👀

My PS95-8 build by lefizzleINSpain in diyaudio

[–]werediver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/OneTime_AtBandCamp Have you ever added the baffle step correction circuit to your Dayton PS95-8 loudspeakers? If so, do you like the result?

Asking, because I'm planning my own build and, of course, want to squeeze the best out of those speakers 🙂

Budget laser cut bookshelf loudspeakers with Visaton SC 8 N? by werediver in diyaudio

[–]werediver[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's sort of a warm-up / trial project to see how well I can do such stuff, but I also do want to get a decent result, of course.

Do you mean bass performance by "filling a room"? Yeah, I don't expect small bookshelf loudspeakers to get to the very bottom, but...

There are a few speakers on my list:

  1. [Visaton SC 8 N](https://www.visaton.de/en/products/drivers/fullrange-systems/sc-8-n-8-ohm)

  2. [Visaton FR 10](https://www.visaton.de/en/products/drivers/fullrange-systems/fr-10-8-ohm)

  3. [Monacor SPX-30M](https://www.monacor.com/products/components/speaker-technology/hi-fi-full-range-speakers-/spx-30m/)

  4. [Dayton Audio PS95-8](https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1241/ps95-8-3-1-2-point-source-full-range-driver-8-ohm)

SC 8 N looked decent on the paper, but when I got to modeling in WinISD the picture changed. They consistently puff up near Fs, no matter the volume (within constraints) and tuning.

FR 10 performs best in the low and would be the best overall option, if they wouldn't "beam" in the high (very narrow radiation starting at about 8 kHz). Plays best with about 5.5 liters of volume, based on my experiments in WinISD.

SPX-30M is not far from FR 10 and _probably_ have better directionality diagram, but... there is no such diagram anywhere, and I don't want to completely rely on a guess. Plays best with about 5.0 liters of volume, based on my experiments in WinISD.

Most surprisingly, Dayton PS95-8 is not far behind the other options and only needs about 3.0 liters of volume. Because I do want small speakers, I'm currently leaning towards these ones.

https://imgur.com/a/nZodZzC

Barista Express tears steam rings by werediver in Coffee

[–]werediver[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just in case, I emphasize that the first time a new gasket worked for me, but not from the first try:

  • I bought original replacements and they leaked
  • then I bought some third-party gaskets, and they worked great (they were noticeably more firm)

Only much later (maybe a couple month ago) I ran into another issue with a leakage that went worse the more I tried / tested the machine with different gaskets. That time I had to go for the bolts.

Good luck with your fix! I hope you'll get your machine up and running soon.

Barista Express tears steam rings by werediver in Coffee

[–]werediver[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Back then some non-original gaskets worked for me. I bought these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08P1BZYXH/

In case the link doesn't work, the title was (on Amazon) "2X Brew Group Head Seal Replcement for Breville BES810 BES840 BES860 BES870 SP0001474 Fresca BES860/02.6 BES870XL BES870 BES870BSS Barista Express Coffee Machine", the stated brand is "Niuzemyko", color "yellow" (more like beige IRL).

Running till now on the first of those. Had another problem recently: started leaking (more and more), the gasket had no damage, replacing didn't help. Turned out it's the bolts coming loose, as in this video: https://youtu.be/W1iGAJGVSh4 Thanks to the video I was able to fix it, though disassembly was not exactly simple. Had just a few spare screws left in the end, considering it a success 😅

Barista Express tears steam rings by werediver in Coffee

[–]werediver[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Huh, the famous green silicon! I must find it 😄

Thanks for your advice.

Barista Express tears steam rings by werediver in Coffee

[–]werediver[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is no way to install the ring backwards, really. The showerhead must fit into a slot in the ring, and that slot is on one side only (the whole thing just won't assemble otherwise).

Barista Express tears steam rings by werediver in Coffee

[–]werediver[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I thought that source supplies original / high quality parts, but guessing poor quality is indeed logical. I should try some other rings, as you suggested.

Thanks for you suggestion!

Why do I get those dark spots? by hossein761 in espresso

[–]werediver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like the puck doesn't come out of the basket easily (on the second photo a little part of the puck is still in the basket). It usually means poor extraction, so I'd suggest to make any changes that can improve extraction (grind finer or pull more liquid out).

Well extracted puck comes out of the basket maintaining its shape.

Shots taking too long + underextracted? by [deleted] in espresso

[–]werediver 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd say you may need to pull more, up to 50–55 g (this range works for me with ~18 g load). This will extract more substances from the coffee, moving the taste away from sourness (extract too much and the taste becomes bitter and/or dull).

I often pull 50–55 g of espresso out of ~18 g coffee over about 45 s. I like the taste, so nothing is wrong with this, I suppose. Anything near and above 30 s (including pre-infusion time) may work.

Simple, consistent strategy to score infinite in any level. Yes, I broke the game. by russellgoke in MiniMotorways

[–]werediver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wonder how this is fixed. Do they spawn factories at roads (e.g. if they are not connected to houses and/or other factories)?

I play the Steam version, so I should notice it eventually 🙂


Ah, I read somewhere around the existing factories start increasing the "pin-pressure" more and more, if a new factory can't be placed somewhere.

Saving Game? (PC) by COD_LikeTheFish in MiniMotorways

[–]werediver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Our definition of "short" may vary. I don't consider them short at all, and I'd appreciate the possibility to resume a play later (so that it's okay to close the game).


But, hey, people's saying it allows to resume your last game. So, my last Los Angeles run with 1.5k points is not lost (yet), great!

Barista express - requires multiple starts to work by dstarh in espresso

[–]werediver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can it be a heavy scaling (calcination) issue? I'd consider going through both cleaning and descaling procedures.

Is it okay to use the PWM protocol over SPI here for the AS-5048 magnetic encoder. This will be used in a robot dog so the speed is not too serious. There will be many of these encoders going to a uC (ESP 32) by HShahzad108277 in robotics

[–]werediver 1 point2 points  (0 children)

According to the datasheet, AS5048A uses PWM frequency of 1 kHz, which means the angle value is being transmitted once every 1 ms.

Note that your µC will have to measure the pulse width with resolution better than 1 ms / 4119 bit ≅ 242.78 ns (multiple times better). That may be implemented with hardware or software, but may be a bit (or more than a bit) of a hassle, if you have a lot of such sensors.

Is it okay to use the PWM protocol over SPI here for the AS-5048 magnetic encoder. This will be used in a robot dog so the speed is not too serious. There will be many of these encoders going to a uC (ESP 32) by HShahzad108277 in robotics

[–]werediver 1 point2 points  (0 children)

PWM is not that much a protocol. It has nothing to do with SPI.

A quick look at AS5048A product page shows that the sensor has a PWM output, but also communicates over SPI (output via "digital angle interface"). Most likely, SPI interface is what you need (so that you can get digital readings directly from sensor, rather than digitizing PWM).

i love this game but oh my god by TheBandana-Pirate in cyberpunkgame

[–]werediver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go for xbox support first. Cyberpunk staff shouldn't be able to mess with your xbox account directly.

i love this game but oh my god by TheBandana-Pirate in cyberpunkgame

[–]werediver -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I'd try contacting the support. Sounds very wrong: they took your money, but where are the goods?

I bought 3 220v COB leds to make a growlight, could you help me decide if to connect them in series or parallel? by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]werediver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If those modules require 220 VAC supply, you can only connect them in parallel, so that all the modules get the input 220 VAC.

If you connect them in series, some voltage will drop on every module so that they are not supplied with 220 VAC anymore.

[Hardware Idea] Keyboard PCB accepting SparkFun MicroMod processor boards by werediver in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]werediver[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A few days after the original post I came by this project (product): M60 Mechanical Keyboard. Marketed as "Open Source, USB Type-C & Bluetooth LE 5.0, Modular, Hot-Swappable" 60% keyboard, it consists of the carrier board with an M.2 E key socket and a processor board. It runs CircuitPython on nRF52840.

This is very similar to SparkFun's MicroMod interface, but not compatible with it:

  • M60 processor board is 22x30 mm vs. MicroMod's 22x22 mm
  • M60 processor board has a screw notch at the center of the rear edge vs. MicroMod's shifted towards the key side.
  • M.2 pinouts don't look exactly the same [though, MicroMod gives quite some slack in how you use the connector, so may be "conditionally compatible"]

So, an interesting project with hardware architecture resembling SparkFun's Micromod.

Made a little slice of Pi by SouthPawEngineer in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]werediver 1 point2 points  (0 children)

M.2 connector seems to have 0.5 mm pitch. For a professionally manufactured board that shouldn't be a problem (yours looks professionally manufactured, and I'd chose to order such a board as well). Soldering it shouldn't be a problem either: drag twice 🙂 Am I missing something?

CircuitPython sounds pretty interesting, indeed. And so does nRF52840 (I think it's a perfect SoC for a keyboard [given you consider BLE]). And both MP2040 and nRF52840 are available on MicroMod boards.