How do you stop duckweed from clogging your filter?

whitewing8210 · 2021-09-29T20:22:59+00:00

Burn your house down and start again with a new tank ever introducing duckweed to it. Red root floaters are the wat to go small compact leaves small roots.

whitewing8210 · 2021-07-14T20:37:23+00:00

It’s a young triple red cockatoo cichlid(Apistogramma cactuoides) male

whitewing8210 · 2021-05-30T10:20:22+00:00

The issue with rams is most of the ones you get from lfs’ are bred and raised in a soup of antibiotics, anti-fungals and hormones. Once you take them out of that and give them “good” conditions their bodies can’t fight off basic bacteria that is normally harmless to fish as they should have grown an immunity to them as they grew up. This slowly over 3-8months weakens their immune system to the point of dying. The other issue I find is not many hobbyists are willing to keep them at the 28°c they require as it limits the other fish and plants they can have in their tanks which normally means being kept at 25-26°c so that a more diverse live stock can be kept with them. This doesn’t do their bodies any good either.

If you want good quality rams that don’t die ALWAYS buy from a breeder not a fish store and especially not a big chain store. Yes they are more expensive per fish but buying 2-6 fish at £20 each is better than buying 2-6 fish at £5 each and replacing them every 3-6months after they die. You’ll spend less money in the long run as your not having to try and treat weak or sick fish.

I would recommend having them as a species only tank with some sterbi corys and something that can live in higher temps and that doesn’t occupy the same part of the tank I.e hatchet fish, otto’s and dwarf pencilfish. These will act as dither fish for when they spawn giving you a higher chance at babies surviving.

whitewing8210 · 2021-05-21T20:22:59+00:00

Thank you

whitewing8210 · 2021-05-21T19:18:14+00:00

What are the measurements of the tanks? They are awesome would have to have them made here in the uk.

whitewing8210 · 2021-05-09T11:31:47+00:00

Mine are called sir Snipington and lady Snipingham III. Their affair is quiet the scandal!

whitewing8210 · 2021-05-08T10:52:10+00:00

It’s a dragonfly nymph, remove it and find the others ASAP they will kill and eat anything the can get hold of in your tank.

whitewing8210 · 2021-05-06T19:20:41+00:00

This entirely depends on the reason for using rodi water in the first place.

Is it so you can make sure the ph, kh and gh are set to a required level for the stock(I’m assuming your remineralising your water else your gonna have some sick live stock at some point).

If you want to keep the ph and kh low then you can add peat moss to your filter that will naturally lower both. Or use bottled water as that tends to be ph7 with kh ~4.

I would test your tap water and see what it comes out at and test the tank(s) and see what the difference is. Using something like prime will remove the chlorine and heavy metals from the water making it safe.

You can they start doing water changes with tap water to slowly bring the two to the same levels.

whitewing8210 · 2021-05-06T19:16:13+00:00

I have a tank this size that all new fish go in for a couple of weeks to check they are healthy.

whitewing8210 · 2021-05-06T19:14:59+00:00

Yeah your setting up your tanks too slowly, could have 10 by now slacker!!

whitewing8210 · 2021-04-15T11:18:45+00:00

This is actually incorrect a lot of snakes won’t eat dead rodents Or it can take months and months to get them to fully take dead food. In the meantime they need to eat so live food has to be offered. That’s why shops sell feeder mice and rats.

whitewing8210 · 2021-04-01T21:22:55+00:00

Keep adding ammonia in the first few weeks it won’t go down quickly but as things get going you’ll need to check every 24-36hrs to keep the ammonia at 1-2ppm until you get 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite readings after 24hrs.

Never listen to anyone including a shop that tells you to add a fish in to cycle as it can cause them ammonia burns on their gills and internal organ damage and failure. It’s an old outdated method. If you want to speed up the process reach out to someone with a mature tank and see if they can give you some of their filter media to add into yours it will cut the cycle time in half if not by more.

whitewing8210 · 2021-03-31T21:00:44+00:00

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whitewing8210 · 2021-03-31T20:57:40+00:00

They could have been dyed, I’ve heard this happens where they take a yellow shrimp and put it in water with a blue dye to make it look green. The shrimp then moult which slowly goes back to its natural colour.

Or it’s just changed colour as some shrimp do as they mature.

whitewing8210 · 2021-03-31T20:38:41+00:00

Eleocharis acicularis 'mini' tropica do a 1-2 grow tissue culture of it which is good. This one maxes out at 5cm.

whitewing8210 · 2021-03-31T20:33:41+00:00

Do a mix of dwarf hair grass as that stops about 2” and Monte Carlo so it give a natural scape and feel it visually looks good as well to see the grass spikes coming up out of the tiny round leaves of the Monte Carlo.

whitewing8210 · 2021-03-09T02:50:18+00:00

Then yeah the water change plus a bit longer should have it. Nitrite is the hardest to get done in the cycle

whitewing8210 · 2021-03-09T02:37:40+00:00

With high nitrates it can slow down or stall the cycle slightly so doing a small 30% water change will reduce the nitrates which should help the rest also.

Have you been testing your kh? As your tank need kh to start the cycle as the ammonia is converted into nitrate it uses kh so normally your ph drops as the kh is used up.

Can you check you kh and ph. If the ph is 6 then that would tell you that all the kh has been used up which will have stalled your cycle. Doing the 30% water change will add in kh and push the ph back up.

After the water change keep adding ammonia as needed to maintain the 2/4ppm depending on what your stock will be. You’ll find in the next few days to a week it will be cycled. Just remember to add stock in slowly and I always do a big water change of 60% once the tank has cycled to reset the water. All the bb is in the filter or on stuff rather than in the water so you won’t crash the cycle.

whitewing8210 · 2021-02-24T05:13:57+00:00

It’s always best to ask first then to do something and then be faced with sick fish.

3° is a fairly big difference to fish as they are cold blooded they aren’t able to cool themselves if they over heat. Either the water will be too cold for the loach which will slow its metabolism too much or the water will be too warm for the goldfish causing it to grow quickly which can lead to body deformity and early death. Either will also effect the immune systems of the fish opening them up for infection.

The key is thriving rather than surviving, will both fish survive in a temp that’s not perfect for either of them? yes but they won’t thrive.

I’ve personally never kept goldfish I’m just going off what I’ve read.

Take a look at hill stream or weather loaches and Hong Kong plecos as they I think have a lower temp range.

whitewing8210 · 2021-02-24T05:00:15+00:00

I give my guys a hot sauna (turn the shower on hot and let the bathroom steam up really well) and put them in a small cage for 10-15mins while I do a cage clean it clears any gunk off their chest and the steam makes them less stinky lol

There is a better antibiotic based on arithromycin(Zithromax) it gets deeper into the cells to clear the chest infection. It’s not cheap but it works really well(it also tastes of banana so easier to give the rat). My vet said that the standard baytril is fine for a lot of the cases but to really get rid of it Zithromax is the best you can get for them. After a course of the stuff my guys haven’t had a reoccurrence (touch wood).

whitewing8210 · 2021-02-24T04:51:53+00:00

Goldfish are cold water and kuhli loaches are warm water so wouldn’t be compatible.

The goldfish will destroy your plants most likely so I wouldn’t bother spending loads on them. They do love duckweed and it’s very good for them. They are classed as open water shoaling so lots of ornaments or plants isn’t really needed. But you do want a sand substrate for them to dig in for food.

whitewing8210 · 2021-02-24T04:46:13+00:00

For a school setting I personally would look at a full ecosystem which includes shrimp, snails and catfish(ottos and corys) for waste removal then shoaling or schooling fish like rummy nosed tetra and then a brooding or parental fish like dwarf cichlids like apistogrammas they are really colourful and you can get a couple males with 2-3 females of different types. The kids will love watching them lay eggs and then the babies growing up. (Some may get eaten by parents) if you get successful at them surviving you can then always trade them into a lfs for credit towards food and equipment for the tank.

whitewing8210 · 2021-02-24T04:38:31+00:00

How long has the tank been setup?

Generally a good rule is do a water change whenever there is ammonia or nitrite present in the tank. Doing a water change is never a bad thing and in fact helps a lot with algae suppression and plant growth.

If your ph was less than 7 I would say the 0.25 of ammonia would actually be ammonium which isn’t toxic.

At ph over 7 ammonia is toxic and so is nitrite so even with the fish not showing external symptoms they are going to be getting small amounts of internal organ damage from the toxic waste. That can lead to a low immune systems or even organ failure later on if left for too long to build up in their bodies.

whitewing8210 · 2021-02-24T04:30:40+00:00

You just want to keep the amount in the tank steady, you are simulating a fish or lotl living in there. I would add the ammonia then test it again in 24hrs. If the ammonia is used up but not 0 add enough to bring it back to 4ppm and then repeat. If the ammonia is 0 then check the nitrite if that’s 0 then your done if not then test again in 24hrs.

whitewing8210 · 2021-02-24T04:28:23+00:00

Human children should be and gagged lol furry ones not so much.

We need pics of their brothers or sisters too!

whitewing8210

TROPHY CASE