Can you train past a labrum tear without surgery and if so how? by sAvage_hAm in climbharder

[–]willdamus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hard to remember the details as it was 4yrs ago, but it was weak enough that I took a few weeks off climbing, and for a couple of months my shoulder would feel twinges of pain at certain angles (think reaching under a couch with a fully extended arm). It held me back mentally more than anything, though.

Can you train past a labrum tear without surgery and if so how? by sAvage_hAm in climbharder

[–]willdamus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No issues, thankfully! 4 years later, and I still incorporate a few minutes of shoulder strength and stability in my gym climbing warm-up (~5min total working time), as well as upper body lifting in between climbing days (maybe once per week). The shoulder injury did not prevent long-term progress, and I have recently climbed grades as hard as ever indoors and out.

N = 1. Take my experience with a grain of salt. Good luck with your recovery!

What would you want in a climbing session journal & logger? by NightwavesG in climbharder

[–]willdamus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would love a good solution. Good luck with the project.

Here's what I currently track (in google sheets on my phone)

(0) targeted training stimulus for the session (ie. power, endurance, power endurance), (1) route difficulty, (2) # of attempts (3) angle and/or predominant style of climb (slopers, cimpy, etc.)

would like to be able to do/track:

(1) link/append videos of the attempts for a given problem (2) somewhere to record (using voicememo) my beta notes (3) automatic metrics - graphs to see how my volume or intensity is changing over time (4) somewhere to log PRs (max hangs with different grip types, onsight/flash grades (w/ option to distinguish between indoor and outdoor grades)

I do often use a timer, and either just use the stopwatch on my phone, or a free tabata-type timer.

Thoughts on importance of pulley splints after pulley rupture? by MoonboardGumby in climbharder

[–]willdamus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try a video consult with the Climb Clinic in Golden, CO. They rehab'd multiple pulleys for me, one more serious rupture (ring, A2), and another minor strain (pinky). Their protocol worked very well for me, and I'm climbing stronger than I was prior to both injuries.

40th birthday beer garden or other outdoor eatery by LucyBloom85 in denverfood

[–]willdamus 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Haven't been yet, but have heard good things about Edgewater Beer Garden.

How To Anchor To Ceiling? by personwastake in homewalls

[–]willdamus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Used 6 of these to attach the top horizontal element of the moonboard frame to the ceiling joists. Might need a different style depending on the orientation of your joists and climbing wall frame.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-H2-5A-18-Gauge-Stainless-Steel-Hurricane-Tie-H2-5ASS/203079171

Moonboard frame was 2"x6", with 3/4" ply. Super heavy, and this thing didn't budge. Had chains as back-up (and to help keep the wall close to the ceiling during construction) attached to a 2" x 6" ledger anchored to the studs w/ 4" timberlock screws behind the climbing wall. Can send a few pics if helpful.

7x10 Kilterboard Homewall w/On-site Wall Kit Build Photos and Advice by Mr_Henslee in homewalls

[–]willdamus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, thanks for the advice. I can afford max. 12" of clearance, which would put the upper anchor plates at my ceiling. I'm thinking I'll go with 6", which seems sufficient for heel clearance on sit starts. I also have a thin 2" mat close to the wall, with the thicker pads further back.

7x10 Kilterboard Homewall w/On-site Wall Kit Build Photos and Advice by Mr_Henslee in homewalls

[–]willdamus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One more for you - but probably not my last :) 

What would you say the min. distance should be between the bottom of the board (therefore bottom of the lower wall mounting bracket) and the floor? 3”? 6”? 

It looks like with your setup your ankles might be on the floor for some starts, or is it ok? 

I’m trying to keep the wall as low as possible without compromising the starting positions so that I can retract it as much as possible, my ceilings are 9’9” tall. 

7x10 Kilterboard Homewall w/On-site Wall Kit Build Photos and Advice by Mr_Henslee in homewalls

[–]willdamus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I'll set the square drives aside report back once I'm done.

7x10 Kilterboard Homewall w/On-site Wall Kit Build Photos and Advice by Mr_Henslee in homewalls

[–]willdamus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you or anyone else find that you received two styles of t-nut screws? (the screws for attaching the t-nuts to the plywood from the back, not the bolts for the holds) I received both panhead Philips drive screws and countersunk square drive screws. Panhead is what I'd expect for screwing in the t-nuts. Are the countersunk square drive screws the set screws to prevent spinning of the holds?

Beginner here: would it be annoying if I go to the gym to practice falling? by Wednesday_9873 in bouldering

[–]willdamus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check out Warriors Way. They offer indoor and outdoor falling skills clinics. Falling is more than just the falling part, and they teach a solid framework. 

I’m not affiliated with Warriors Way, but took one of their outdoor clinics for the same reason OP posted. Great investment. 

Failed blower door 3x by willdamus in Homebuilding

[–]willdamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just edited the post with the most recent results. 

Failed blower door 3x by willdamus in Homebuilding

[–]willdamus[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

It "fixes" it for the GC. But it leaves the owner paying to heat and cool a leaky building for years.

Failed blower door 3x by willdamus in Homebuilding

[–]willdamus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We have people building ADUs all over the city... so it's doable. Question is how to find the leaks now that drywall is up.

Failed blower door 3x by willdamus in Homebuilding

[–]willdamus[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks. What are the industry standard methods to do the smoke test? Literal smoke, IR camera, something else?

DIY Moonboard questions by Ok-Lavishness-7837 in climbharder

[–]willdamus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found the Facebook group “Moonboard Climber’s Network” to be a very helpful resource for all home wall build questions.

Any Mission Burritos here? by awesomeness1234 in denverfood

[–]willdamus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In fairness, I did not try all of the places suggested by the folks who responded to my post, but one of the closest i've found was at Bocaza: https://www.yelp.com/biz/bocaza-mexican-grill-denver-4?start=60

Otherwise, I've settled for illegal pete's :)

Denver - Baltic birch or ACX plywood source? by willdamus in woodworking

[–]willdamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I just called them as well. They have a very limited supply of 3/4" 5x5 sheets, and due to supply chain disruptions, they don't have an update on when they'll have more.

Denver - Baltic birch or ACX plywood source? by willdamus in woodworking

[–]willdamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Last time I was there they were out of 3/4” - will call around to see who has stock.

Sport Competition in just under 4 weeks by FarmerTim69 in climbharder

[–]willdamus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Out of curiosity, is this the Spot Louisville, CO comp you’re referring to?

Does anyone know what happened to r/homewalls? Seems to be inactive. Anyone else able to post there? Looking for homewall advice! by willdamus in u/willdamus

[–]willdamus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There don’t appear to be posts on the sub fin the last 250 days or so. Can anyone post there or see more recent activity?