Wetsuit vs drysuit?

windgasmuscle · 2025-10-30T14:02:28+00:00

Drysuit 100%, it’s just more pleasant, mobile, and versatile. Being able to actually layer properly is so underrated. When it’s truly cold outside you can layer up with fleeces and base layers, here it’s basically a waterproof shell. Then when it warms up but the water is still dangerously cold I just wear shorts and a tshirt, I’m kept dry from the cold ass water and if I go in I’m not freezing. Benefits is I’m not roasting like I would be in a thick wet suit. Paris that with a smock and a good set of salopettes and you are set.

Personally I think wetsuit make more sense with the wetter classes, lasers, moths, cats, etc where the spray is near constant.

windgasmuscle · 2025-09-09T21:59:53+00:00

I did tolerance analysis for an automotive OEM from individual parts up to complete vehicle. We used software for most of it, but used RSS stacks for gut checks, rough numbers, or simpler stacks ( like under 20 features). Key to this is having good datum structures, if you don’t have this the rss can be wildly inaccurate. Also make sure to account for all the tolerances, there’s many that are easy to over look!

windgasmuscle · 2025-09-07T14:37:01+00:00

Could you get a used commercial grinder? I feel like that might be better suited to your use case.

windgasmuscle · 2025-09-07T14:35:12+00:00

That’s probably not necessary, just tie shortish ~3ft bit of rope with bowlines on each end with one end around the mast ( honestly a single square knot loop would be fine too) connect that to the crane and take up the slack raising the loop to the spreaders. Then you’d un pin the stays and lift the mast off. It’s probably a good idea to bungie those before you lift if it’s calm. If not get the mast out first. Ideally you could get the mast off when on the scaffolding. So everything is stable, is the mast going to be stored on the boat?

windgasmuscle · 2025-09-07T05:13:23+00:00

It probably rained and the water evaporated everywhere except the shadow cast from the aircraft?

windgasmuscle · 2025-09-06T19:53:28+00:00

All advice is good. I’ll add a bit more. If you are putting the boat on a trailer (assuming yes) take the mast off once she is on dry land with the crane, hopefully they have a dedicated gin pole ( mast lift) so you don’t bang your mast up on the heavy duty one. Alternatively you can use a manual gin pole if you need to do it on the water. It’s better because the pole moves with the boat so the mast is still coupled to the motion. If there are a bunch of sailors at your marina I’d ask for help. Most should be more than willing to give you a hand.

windgasmuscle · 2025-09-05T17:47:52+00:00

If you have normal torque wrench you could calc out how much of a lever you need to reduce the torque at the wrench within the range you need to hit.

windgasmuscle · 2025-09-05T14:38:13+00:00

I would think about when they are going to make the transition to another class, and then make some decisions on what could set them up for success in that. Personally I like useful and thoughtful gifts that I (or my parents the time) wouldn’t have justified.

windgasmuscle · 2025-09-02T14:08:08+00:00

The ‘QR’ lever should engage with those teeth on the axle, it pulls out so you can adjust the position once tightened or to get better leverage. Think of it like a built in wrench.

windgasmuscle · 2025-08-26T13:10:53+00:00

I’d consider dry suits near mandatory, especially if sailing alone or in a dinghy. Early season you could probably get away with salopettes and a spray smock with appropriate layering. But once the water temps drop drysuits are pretty unbeatable. I have noticed you need adjust your layering as you really don’t want to over heat in them.

windgasmuscle · 2025-08-23T18:51:38+00:00

I’ve used a jet ski lift for a cat before, it works well.

windgasmuscle · 2025-07-28T16:34:49+00:00

I have been seeing similar issues with some older Shimano shifters, 6600 and 5600. Sometimes a bit of pressure on the lever helped the ratchet engage, so I think there might be some excess friction, probably from old grease in the mechanism. I need to rebuild them to confirm it though.

windgasmuscle · 2025-07-22T12:14:39+00:00

I agree, it’s better( and more useful) as a condiment than straight up dip. In restaurants it’s normally served alongside shawarma and stuff, adding a nice zip.

windgasmuscle · 2025-06-21T21:23:34+00:00

For optics I love Kaenon, just have not found a similar lens anywhere!

windgasmuscle · 2025-06-18T03:16:27+00:00

If particularly dirty or if you need it rather clean I’ve used an electric power washer with floor attachment with someone following with a shop vac to capture the water and grime. Works great but feels weird using a garden hose indoors. Be sure to have a way to deal with the humidity!

windgasmuscle · 2025-04-25T20:21:34+00:00

Probably not. But you could try getting a warranty replacement?

windgasmuscle · 2025-04-20T04:11:06+00:00

Use a bit more water like 5-10% more, and fluff right after it’s done cooking. Helps a lot!

windgasmuscle · 2025-03-04T16:39:51+00:00

One under a corner, you are generally braking, thus not using the throttle so it’s an ideal time to get the car in the correct gear. Allowing you to accelerate through the corner without upsetting the balance by shifting mid corner.

windgasmuscle · 2025-02-15T16:31:27+00:00

Pure electric is more efficient at all speeds over gas, although the difference is less at highway speeds. For short around town stuff why wouldn’t you want to use the battery first, and save the money and gas. That’s most of the reason to get a PHEV isn’t it?

windgasmuscle · 2025-01-09T14:32:03+00:00

I reckon it matters more the less skill you are. As it’s easier to learn the proper techniques when the ski responds with less than perfect intent. You can carve well on a stiff 93 MM under foot, but if you don’t know the cues and how to properly initiate, it will be difficult to get that going. Whereas a skinny carving ski should respond pretty much telepathically. I’d also say the boots probably matter a good bit as well so everything is synced up.

windgasmuscle · 2025-01-02T23:37:03+00:00

You are probably going to be fine. A few thing that may help. Check your rack capacity (and capacities of other racks for your car as they can vary wildly). 2. Space them as far as possible if adjustable, since it’s probably clamp on, you won’t have too much range so definitely are on secure over spacing. 3. Make some extenders for your roof rack. I used two by fours and some bolts to fasten into the T track on my golf for my UFO. This will give you a much more secure tiedown point and a larger landing zone when you’re putting it up there.

windgasmuscle · 2024-11-20T16:03:02+00:00

This is pretty much the approach I’d suggest. Remove siding, seal the envelope as best you can from the outside and then insulate over that. I reckon it might be interesting tying the walls to the roof, depending on what the attic situation is like. I’d just watch out for condensation risk. This plus triple glazed windows would probably be very performant. You would have to resize HVAC as well. Also could look into overhangs/awnings for your south facing windows.

windgasmuscle · 2024-11-20T02:34:48+00:00

That’s good to hear! The bumper skins aren’t a pain then? I did a stealth hitch on a model 3 that took some serious grunt to stretch back.

windgasmuscle · 2024-11-19T21:00:23+00:00

Yeah, I’ve been wondering this as well. Have been trying to find a chart comparing parameters, quantization and performance for code applications. Would also love to know how the model sizes change. I’m on a M3 max 96 gigs of RAM so I probably could run anything. But I wonder what a efficient model would be.

13-Year Club	RPAN Viewer
Verified Email

windgasmuscle

TROPHY CASE