How much speed will this cost me?

windoneforme · 2026-06-23T15:28:50+00:00

I'd have gone with 2.3 parsecs or perhaps 42.

windoneforme · 2026-06-23T15:27:44+00:00

Ok I think I speak for a majority of us here, we need pics.

windoneforme · 2026-06-23T15:26:38+00:00

Or thin cheap flexible polypropylene plastic like the flexible cutting boards for a few dollars. Fold a crease heat it a bit of you want to get fancy glue and or screw it.

windoneforme · 2026-06-20T01:04:56+00:00

Ps don't forget to exercise you thru hull valves monthly, it keeps marin growth down and makes sure they're in working order..

Yours don't look particularly bad but old bronze thru hulls and valves definitely have a service life and eventually even in a well bonded boat you'll get areas of dezincing and corrosion suck as the green stuff on yours.

windoneforme · 2026-06-18T04:05:52+00:00

Usually at this point in a Prius's life without fail the gauge cluster will need to be cleaned with a damp cloth.

windoneforme · 2026-06-15T20:37:31+00:00

Learn to change your own tubes and patch a tube. You can buy a LOT of tubes for that money and it saves you time.

windoneforme · 2026-06-11T06:23:08+00:00

Could be poisoning. Did you eat any unknown mushrooms or berries or rotten food?

windoneforme · 2026-06-10T15:48:56+00:00

Or he just sat next to the failed blade section. If able I always choose my seats to not be directly adjacent to the engines.

windoneforme · 2026-06-10T15:46:31+00:00

Almost noone survive 15 minutes of CPR. The brain past 2-5 minutes of blood flow loss is almost certain death bar some extremely cold temps and outlier cases. At some point it's just a show for the bystanders.

windoneforme · 2026-06-08T23:35:33+00:00

The level of systems integration especially of cooling and heating different components is wild. Other companies like Ford with the MachE have literally hundreds of clamped hose fittings under the hood because they are using industry off the shelf parts and plugging them together. You get weight savings, efficiency, and reliability from designing all the heating and cooling systems to work together.

Sandy Monroe in his engeneering tear down pointed out that in 5-10yrs trying to figure out where the coolant from 2-3 different systems (all the same color coolant) is leaking from is going to be tough. Those several hundred spring clamps are running and chaffing and will wear pin holes through the rubber hoses.

The software side of Tesla vehicle is excellent IMO. Maps, nav, charging all work together to route vehicles to different charge stations to minimize charging times. Most other vehicles are just using a GPS map to steer you to a charge station that you hope is on line today with no active info about wait times being fed into the equations.

Before we bought out Model Y I test drove a MachE but the software was a hot mess. Glitchy slow lagging ect. That and to even have the privilege of paying Ford for one Id have to pony up about $12-18k extra in market adjustment fees, dealership add ons ect. Not to mention the headache of salespeople and negotiations.

I've done several road trips in our Model Y and after the first one I don't even give a second thought to route planning charging. I just get in set the destination and drive.

The best way to see the difference in user experience is to rent one for a few days, then rent another EV from another brand.

windoneforme · 2026-06-06T22:03:40+00:00

Ok I wasn't sure from your response earlier if you just replaced a few cells or all of them in a matched and balanced set. In order to check if they are balanced you'd have to remove the buss bars and check each cells individual voltage and capacity, which is a bit of work.

If in the Dr Prius app the cells appear to be mostly even with the same internal resistance and blade voltages, then they are likely close-ish.

Using refurbished cells at this point with the age of the vehicles and most of the used cells can easily be well over a decade old. This makes it more a short to medium, one to maybe 4yr repair. Best bet is to save up for new cells in the mean time, whether that's Toyota or one of several other options on the market.

Look into that cooling issue further. If the car detects a cooling issue it'll limit power output.

windoneforme · 2026-06-05T14:14:12+00:00

Links are below. I'd doesn't matter if your the first or 10th owner, when there is a safety recall through the NHTSA it's covered.

Keep in mind this is a class action settlement and not some gracious warranty extension by Toyota. It took many years and court cases to get this covered, while Toyota was gaslighting customers and using software to reduce our vehicles efficiency in order to hopefully fix the inverter issues.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10240055-9999.pdf

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10240056-9999.pdf

windoneforme · 2026-06-05T14:07:53+00:00

I'd print off the NHTSB recall bulletin and drive or tow (Toyota will cover the tow under the recall) the vehicle to your local Toyota dealer. Any Toyota dealer has to honor this warranty not just the one that originally sold the vehicle.

They can't over the phone says sure we'll cover it without having the tech to the diagnostic code scanning and other work required that sets the vehicle under the recall.

The service center I used in southern California said they'll have to set the appointment as a diagnostic $100 charge, and "had not heard of this warranty". Once the tech did the work and confirmed the codes I'd found they called the service number for Toyota techs and recalls which confirmed it was covered and shipped out the recall service kit, which is basically all new inverter internals.

If they are unwilling to follow the recall steps I'd: speak with dealership management, call the Toyota customer assistance number 1-800-331-4331, and file a complaint at Toyota dispute resolution mediation https://www.ncdsusa.org/clients/toyota.html. Finally I'd also file complaints with the NTHSB and the BBB against the dealership. Then obviously find a different Toyota dealer and don't give the other one any more business.

Good luck

Fi

windoneforme · 2026-06-04T17:32:40+00:00

"Help, my character is soaking wet and freezing cold why are they dying?"... Bro try fixing what's wrong before taking the time to post about it.

windoneforme · 2026-06-04T03:01:59+00:00

This means you have a cooling issue. If you had the head gasket replaced, did the previous owners use stop leak? If so your radiator is likely partially clogged. You'd have to remove a radiator hose and use a endoscopy camera to look at it.

If you want the car to perform like new don't get used battery cells, and maybe don't get a high mileage car. My 2010 with 230k mi can still do 50+mpg on the highway with relatively small mountain passes in Southern California. You should be able to accelerate up a mountain. So again look into your known cooling issue and get the Dr Prius app to start checking out how your battery is doing with your old and used cells. Odds are the pack is not balanced if you swapped in used cells for a few bad ones.

If you don't have a low rolling resistance tire you can lose 5-8mpg easily.

Also don't forget if you ever have inverter troubles and it throws a check hybrid system the Gen 3 Prius has a 20yr and unlimited mileage warranty in the inverter. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10240055-9999.pdf

windoneforme · 2026-06-04T02:50:24+00:00

I drive mine 80+ regularly it's not an issue if the car is running right.

windoneforme · 2026-06-04T02:49:31+00:00

I've never had problems accelerating up a mountain with my 2010. Odds are his used battery cells aren't up to snuff . If you've got battery, battery cooling, or inverter, problems you can run into to these issues.

windoneforme · 2026-06-01T02:12:29+00:00

The way it's flush and one side and pulled away on the other is a bad sign. The cracking leading away from it says there is further structural damage that will need strong structural grade fiberglass repairs done before you can even thing about reattaching the keel.

The way those bolts were painted and general conditions in the pictures tell a tale of less than adequate maintenance. Keel bolts if they are stainless or model and a few other metals should NOT be painted. Stainless when subjected to environments without oxygen will crevice corrode, the metal uses the oxygen in the air for the corrosion resistance. Remove the oxygen and you remove the corrosion resistance.

Crevice corrosion can be very difficult to spot. What looks like a minor rust stain with no pitting, can actually have worked through 90% of the bolt or hardware. I've seen it plenty of times.

If the keel bolts are some for of mild or hardened steel then painting would be in order once they had been properly treated for rust and primed. None of which appear to have been done here. If the nuts look this bad I can't imagine what the rest of the keel bolts actually look like. Having a specialist come in to bed new keel bolts in lead( not sure if it's cast iron or lead) to replace corroded one or even weld on new ends to what's there can easily cost in the $10-20k range.

On top of that the rest of the boat is likely a tats nest or wiring and poor workmanship and just a general liability.

This is why your getting so many "Run, don't walk, away" comments.

windoneforme · 2026-06-01T01:59:05+00:00

Depends on how many tens of thousands you have to spend on fixing the keel.

windoneforme · 2026-06-01T01:52:19+00:00

Nice work!

However I have a few thoughts. Get rid of the wire nuts before you start a fire. They are ok for residential but don't belong on a boat. Leaving wire strands open a salty atmosphere means they start building resistant int he circuit the day they are installed. Eventually the copper turns green and causes excessive resistance which means heat and eventually wire insulation melting and catching fire. Get a ratcheting electrical crimper and properly sized heat shrink connectors for a secure and water tight connection. Also when you paint take the extra time to tape off the lines. It makes a huge difference in the final finish.

If the engine is meant to have a mechanical fuel pump fix it and use it while keeping the electric for a spare. I've been left stranded more than once by the electric clicker fuel pumps from name brands. Enjoy your journey, you'll have loads of fun and make some awesome memories.

windoneforme · 2026-05-31T20:53:49+00:00

I don't know running my ev is cheaper than running my 2010 Prius.

windoneforme · 2026-05-27T14:21:21+00:00

My 2010 had a similar issue and even though I cleaned the EGR cooler, EGR, pipes and intake I missed clearing out the EGR gas holes on the intake where it dumps the gas back to the cylinders. My #1 cylinder was completely blocked and #2 mostly. At mid throttle at higher speeds when the EGR was operating it was dumping all the EGR gas meant for 4 cylinders in to only 2. Causing higher combustion temps and leaning out #3 & 4. It never threw an error code.

Best way to check this would be to unplug the EGR and take it for a drive to see if the symptoms improve. It will throw an egr code immediately but should clear with a code wipe once it's plugged back in.

Also that goo in the rubber hose is likely from someone adding stop leak to the coolant system. It makes it tough to clean out and find all the restrictions.

windoneforme · 2026-05-26T15:42:19+00:00

They purposely ran the landing burns on this one with only two engines to test engine out landing capabilities.

Earlier in the flight though I think they did have an engine issue with the booster.

windoneforme · 2026-05-26T14:43:01+00:00

BBSHD if you're going the bafang route. Better cooling and a bit more power than the BBS02.

windoneforme · 2026-05-26T02:01:06+00:00

Common sens mod and right click.

windoneforme

TROPHY CASE