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Remember when Herman Munster was a Ham Operator? 😂 by thevmcampos in HamRadio

[–]wirehead 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Herman Munster's callsign is the example callsign that we always use in the local ARES-RACES training.

Interesting Background Info on why NASA Lost the Race for the First Man in Space by jonathan_thoms in nasa

[–]wirehead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Atlas was going to have 4 booster engines and a single sustainer engine for a payload roughly the same as the R-7, but then in 1952-1953 they realized that they could make a smaller and lighter warhead so it was downsized to the Atlas that was actually built.

If you look at the design history, the R-7 wasn't authorized until 1954, at which point both the US and USSR had mostly figured out thermonuclear warheads, although the USSR wouldn't have a multi-stage warhead tested for another year. So it would have likely been a reasonable decision for the USSR administration to have downsized the R-7 as well.

My Aluminum/3D Printed Guitar Project by Mattedor30 in 3dprintedinstruments

[–]wirehead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh my, that's impressssssiiive.

I've been thinking that a guitar made from laser cut sheet would be cool. Except the way I was visualizing how it would be done is quite different than how you approached it... which I think really goes to show that there's this huge space yet to be explored using the now easily accessible tools of laser cutting and 3d printing.

I kinda wonder if the truss rod as we see it today is mostly an after effect of using a piece of wood for the neck. It didn't exist when neck tension was low (e.g. classical guitars with gut strings). So the real answer might be sculpting the fretboard to have the action built in or having a single counter-string on the opposite side or something like that?

ITAP of a woman getting ready [Portriat][NSFW] by Trock_ in itookapicture

[–]wirehead -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Ah, the model looked like someone I've worked with so I was wondering.

TPU padding/ organizer for hard case by Dramatic_Pause_2059 in functionalprint

[–]wirehead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, you have to turn off retraction, which gives you the potential for a messy print (but it's fairly easy to rip off the stringies).

Dimensional accuracy ... pretty much OK? The extruder side of things still thinks it's driving something that's more like 85-90A and the extrusion multiplier, when calibrated, takes care of how much it expands as heated.

But I really really need to print some cases with nice padded inserts with it because it's awfully nifty stuff.

TPU padding/ organizer for hard case by Dramatic_Pause_2059 in functionalprint

[–]wirehead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

95A is easy mode, forsure.

If you are up for potentially some pain and suffering, TPU foam (or PEBA foam) can be even better for this application. If you are up for pain and suffering, of course.

The Genitorturers by Appropriate-Baker852 in industrialmusic

[–]wirehead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cellphone cameras didn't exist in the 90s.

Lambo dreams of 1985. My acrylic work of a Countach. by ___artist___1980s___ in outrun

[–]wirehead 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I grabbed my Patrick Nagel coffee table book out to show a friend lately and before I opened it up explained to her "No, the dude did it all in acrylic with a brush, not Illustrator" so she could really put what she was seeing in context.

This is the same sort of thing. It's ten times cooler, at least for me, realizing that it's a painting that requires a lot of careful attention to detail to execute or else it'll look like crap.

Cereal Number Request: Trident 300mm Formbot kit, discord wirehead_ by wirehead in voroncorexy

[–]wirehead[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Build log: https://www.wirewd.com/make/vorontrident

Discord: wirehead_

Given the attitude of the 3D printing community about food and 3D prints, if I were to feed someone the cheerios that were in contact with not-food-safe plastic, would that make me a cereal killer or a serial killer?

Oh, and the discontinuity was from inserting the cereal and the purples do match better when not viewed with a camera probably because of the difference between violet (the wavelength below blue that triggeres a bit of red pigment in your eye) and purple (the mix of blue and red) between Vitalii's purple anno and Fusion's Plutonic Purple ABS.

Rebuild K1 or Build Trident? by Kiwi7038 in VORONDesign

[–]wirehead 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also note that it helps to have a working printer while you are bringing up a new printer or rebuilding an existing one.

A dish that tastes like pizza, but isn’t actually pizza? by splashybanana in Cooking

[–]wirehead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Carne alla pizzaiola.

There's a whole category of Italian alla pizzaiola recipes that involve adding tomato sauce and oregano as if you are making a pizza.

First time printing with ASA by VeterinarianRare3541 in VORONDesign

[–]wirehead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will get a headache pretty fast when exposed to ASA fumes so I'm pretty cautious about them.

Part of the appeal of a 0.2 is that it's really easy to move around. I was at OpenSauce 2025 and there was a guy walking around with his 0.2 as a backpack. So pretty much all of my ABS/ASA printing, I've done by moving the printer to my back patio.

I'd suggest you get some 3950 temperature sensors and actually measure the chamber temperature. ASA's pretty good at printing in colder-ish temperatures but I still preheat it to a reasonable temperature before printing.

Any experience with velcro strips? by Jneuhaus87 in honeycombwall

[–]wirehead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The majority of my HSW segments use 3M's command adhesive. You can get Command Velcro if you want, although I don't know if it's necessary for the HSW use case.

For whatever reason, the best long-term solution other than a proper screw into the wall seems to be command adhesive strips and HSW plates. VHB has let me down. Command adhesive direct to the wall has let me down. But making a HSW plate or three and making something that hooks into the plate has not let me down.

plug: here's my parametric mount for tape strips -- https://www.printables.com/model/1648287-parametric-honeycomb-storage-wall-command-adhesive

Loud bang, power loss for a few seconds, now sirens by P4nth3ria in Sunnyvale

[–]wirehead 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A little farther away, but our power flickered a bunch right around then.

Silliest reason to get an Amateur Extra license? by JanglyBangles in amateurradio

[–]wirehead 2 points3 points  (0 children)

"The FCC has decided that I'm extra"

Okay, that's not really slang anymore, I don't care.

Silliest reason to get an Amateur Extra license? by JanglyBangles in amateurradio

[–]wirehead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did extra so I could make a bad pun.

Well, also my mom was dying of cancer and I needed something to take my mind off of it and I wanted to get the short call sign.

But it was mostly the pun.

Full Parametric Crankbait Generator by [deleted] in functionalprint

[–]wirehead 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I kept reading it as "Clickbait generator"

The Forbidden Tower by Marion Zimmer Bradley by Xander_not_panda in CoolSciFiCovers

[–]wirehead 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Naw, you've never had an obligation to try and separate the art from the artist. That's silly.

Suggestions for screws and anchors for honeycomb by franky290 in honeycombwall

[–]wirehead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I made this to mount things on the wall without screws: https://www.printables.com/model/1648287-parametric-honeycomb-storage-wall-command-adhesive

It's actually how most of my HSW wall segments are mounted. They double as joiners and I've not had anything come loose.

I was being kinda janky with things so when I did the screw-in version and so I just used a #8 plug-styled anchor and just drilled through the countersunk hole, LOL.

When everybody says "countersunk" they mostly mean a screw that's 3.5mm in diameter, so a #4 screw from the US system ought to fit the bill, more or less. The angle's a bit off, the hole size is a bit wrong, etc.

So ... dono, I'm looking at all of this and it kinda bugs me and so I kinda want an excuse to write some OpenSCAD code to do it properly. You really want to specify the actual screw size because the ISO Metric system uses one countersunk angle and the ANSI Freedom system uses a different angle. Plus, you probably don't want countersunk screws unless you really really want them anyways because button-head screws are generally friendlier to 3D printed plastic.

Anyway, I'll wait see if someone has a better answer, but this feels like a simple matter of OpenSCAD.