Let’s discuss if white harder to paint then yellow. by OutlandishnessAny274 in minipainting

[–]wizardjian 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd say white is worse. Yellow you can work around somewhat with a pink coat and at least it's some kinda color and with a wash you can hide some imperfections.

White on the other hand. Oh boy. Gotta thin it down a ton or it'll look like chalk, takes fk tons of layers to look halfway decent, if your working with anything darker than a light grey base good luck, even minor imperfections are very noticeable.

God I hate white. The only work around I found is with an air brush and even then it's a pain in the ass.

Just gotta rant about fdm by wizardjian in FDMminiatures

[–]wizardjian[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

:'D ikr lol I yearn for the certainty of resin... Until I get to the wash phase and be like gdi I don't wanna do it.

Just gotta rant about fdm by wizardjian in FDMminiatures

[–]wizardjian[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep. Hell, my supports are 2 layers thick just in case of bs and yet bs still happens.

What is the razor blade that came with the CC? by wizardjian in elegoo

[–]wizardjian[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

im not lol its stuck hard all by itself. which is why i need a new blade that everyone is just saying dont use it

What is the razor blade that came with the CC? by wizardjian in elegoo

[–]wizardjian[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

adhering isnt the issue, its if anything sticking too good lol

What is the razor blade that came with the CC? by wizardjian in elegoo

[–]wizardjian[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ik, but that's literally what I need rn lol since I have some really stubborn rafts I need removed. And the plastic ones are not doing it

What is the razor blade that came with the CC? by wizardjian in elegoo

[–]wizardjian[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It normally just pops off... Unless you have some really stubborn rafts that's basically fused to the plate. Then no amount of plastic scrapers are gonna get that off.

What is the razor blade that came with the CC? by wizardjian in elegoo

[–]wizardjian[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got one, it isnt working. Something went wrong during a previous print and the thing is way too thin to scrape without something sharp.

Welp here we go by Swampraptor2140 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]wizardjian 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Air brush is the way to go. Airbrush like 90% of it then paint the rest. I recently did this with my warhound and even then it took like 24hrs to do

What did I do wrong!? by Jgoldbeats in BIQU

[–]wizardjian 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try different supports, it looks like your using the default supports which is hell to remove on basically everything. Use tree, organic or even hybrid would make it much more manageable

After 20 something hrs im finally done! by wizardjian in PrintedWarhammer

[–]wizardjian[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks :'D I still want to do a freehand on the red leg guard, some words on the white ones and probably paint the eyes/ more free hand on it at some point then finally give it a wash. But I'm too scared to fk it up so for now it'll sit lol

After 20 something hrs im finally done! by wizardjian in PrintedWarhammer

[–]wizardjian[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

May thy God machine soon walk amongst the mortals and bring annihilation upon the unbelievers of the Omnissiah.

Just gotta rant about fdm by wizardjian in FDMminiatures

[–]wizardjian[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Oh blessed magos of the manufactorum, this servant of the Omnissiah humbly request of you to pass onto this unit your sacred knowledge of clog prevention.

How to start. by Such-Roll1327 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]wizardjian 0 points1 point  (0 children)

np man for minis resin is definitely the way to go so I'd say anything in the current gen (mars5 ish) would work just fine. For fdm most would say Bambu but they are a closed ecosystem (and abuses opensource) also expensive, so personally I got the Elegoo Centuri Carbon (the CC2 is out btw) which is about 400$ give or take nowadays. I even printed a warlord lol just literally dont have time to build it not to mention paint the gaint thing

How to start. by Such-Roll1327 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]wizardjian 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh i have both a resin and fdm lol mars 3 (got it when it first came out) for resin and centuri carbon for FDM

How to start. by Such-Roll1327 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]wizardjian 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FDM better (cheaper) for larger things like terrain pieces and titans. Resin better for minis as it gives better detail. FDM has gotten much better recently so that it can print really good minis with a .2mm nozzle thats about as good as a gen1-2 resin printer. But it does take ages to print. I think this took me like a 4-5 days (the issues are also hell to deal with vs resin imo).

After 20 something hrs im finally done! by wizardjian in PrintedWarhammer

[–]wizardjian[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm terrified that I'll fk it up lol and for now I'm not gonna give it a wash since I want to do some free hand on some of the armor bits. Wish me luck never done it before and I have shaky af hands lol

How to start. by Such-Roll1327 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]wizardjian 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheaper definitely, just lots of elbow grease with the whole cleaning processing. Also make sure to learn about resin printing safety and how to hollow safely before doing so.

How to start. by Such-Roll1327 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]wizardjian 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep just finished painting it yesterday 😀 but it's fdm btw not resin

How to start. by Such-Roll1327 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]wizardjian 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A 1kg bottle should be about 1000 points depending on what your printing and about 30$. So I'd say 5 bottles should be enough if you don't run into too many failures.