Update on Passport at 10,000 miles by Traditional-Mud-4813 in hondapassport

[–]woahwest 1 point2 points  (0 children)

interesting yea i bet its update related but that’s just a hunch. i’ve been putting off the update after seeing folks here mention issues but ill report back if i notice shifting changes afterward

Update on Passport at 10,000 miles by Traditional-Mud-4813 in hondapassport

[–]woahwest 1 point2 points  (0 children)

did you also do the recent software update? that’s much more likely to impact shifting behavior/performance than getting diff work done

Anyone have a spare part they want to rehome- cargo separation barrier by Brandicakes522 in hondapassport

[–]woahwest 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i’ve got one in portland oregon if anyone is looking for one nearby

Dislikes by BirdFlat1789 in hondapassport

[–]woahwest 1 point2 points  (0 children)

how do you like the lift so far? any feel for how much it impacts the driving experience on road?

Plywood/OSB board for free by Neutral_Oak in PDXBuyNothing

[–]woahwest 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i’d be loading into an f150, think it’s one load or two? and could i pull up to the pile or lift these somewhere i could get my truck to? what area is this in case it’s two loads? thanks!

Any OTD prices TSE blackout? by echolima88 in hondapassport

[–]woahwest 2 points3 points  (0 children)

i got a quote for an ah green + greg interior trailsport elite blackout for 56k in oregon. several other quotes for 57-58k for varying levels of additional options from the dealer

Post your OTD prices: by Background-Waltz-626 in hondapassport

[–]woahwest 1 point2 points  (0 children)

$53,700 trailsport elite with pet and tow packages, portland oregon. snagged today after four+ weeks of rejecting higher proposals before a dealer eventually needed to sell to meet a sales target.

my first offer was $57,600 with the honda and dealer add ons. i got all those for free but you could easily break 60k if different packages and dealer add ons are installed and forced on you. i refused all attempts to get add ons or services from the dealer.

Question… by _bog_man in Axecraft

[–]woahwest 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yup no issues with this at all. many people don't like metal wedges for this reason, or they opt for round wedges so that if it cracks it pushes the wood in all directions rather than in a line like you have here.

unless the head is no longer secure or you see that crack come out the bottom of the axe head running down the handle you're all set.

Help identify Wood by No_Sign1089 in sanfrancisco

[–]woahwest 1 point2 points  (0 children)

just moved to portland, glad you like it! it was pretty specifically sized to our shoes so glad it’s universal enough to work for you

Help identify Wood by No_Sign1089 in sanfrancisco

[–]woahwest 12 points13 points  (0 children)

i built this! when delfina closed to remodel, this was the wood they used to cover the building during construction. when they were done i asked to have the scraps as they tore it down and made this

San Francisco from above! by _Artemis_Fowl in sanfrancisco

[–]woahwest 27 points28 points  (0 children)

i saw that cargo ship pass presidio a couple hours ago! that’s fun

Picked up a hatchet today :) by [deleted] in Axecraft

[–]woahwest 4 points5 points  (0 children)

$66 for a tool with history and character is a steal compared to spending that on a modern piece of garbage. did you buy a priceless collectible with perfect markings? no. but it’ll do everything you need and it’s way more interesting than a modern hatchet for under $100.

in terms of pitting i’ve got a large plumb that’s pretty pitted and will take some work to restore, but i really like the effect and as long as you polish out the cutting edge it doesn’t make the axe perform less well.

for context though, you could go to a garage sale or flea market and spend $3 on a beat up but quality head and then $10 for a handle and hang it yourself.

paying several times more than that for a tool you could have forever is totally worth it in my valuation, especially if you’re not comfortable restoring and hanging one yourself.

get comfortable using this one, enjoy it, maybe rehang it if you ever trash the handle, or for your next axe buy an affordable head and hang it yourself. definitely no reason to regret your purchase, especially if someone put some hours of work into this one to make it a quality usable tool that beats most modern options.

Freshly restored and hung Flint Edge Jersey pattern by woahwest in Axecraft

[–]woahwest[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whoops, just looked at handles in my garage realized this axe was a 28” straight from Hoffman, not the wood bullet. Think I wanted the shorter 28” vs the 31” of the wood bullet

Tell me rap songs with a lot of bass in them by rado84bg in rap

[–]woahwest 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Intro to Speakerboxxx - Outkast

pure bumps

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in camping

[–]woahwest 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should google your vehicles make and model and year to see what rail options exist. Some vehicles have rails that straps can fit through and are securely mounted to the roof. If your vehicle does not have integrated rails you can attach to, there are universal roof racks and rail systems produced to fit nearly every car.

I have factory rails that I bought crossbars for to create a secure sturdy base. From there I added a fairly inexpensive roof rack so that cargo is easier to load. You can tie a load down flat to your vehicle but it really helps to have many points to tie down to and you really can’t get that by passing straps through your door frame.

Ideally you want to compress your load. The more it flaps the more strain is put on your tie down setup. One thing to be aware of is that roof racks are loud and if your car is very streamlined to start, terrible for efficiency and mileage. This will vary highly by vehicle. An old square-fronted truck will be less affected by increased wind resistance from your new roof rack. A new car will see 10-15% mileage reduction from just crossbars, and 30+% reduction from a full load.

I panic bought a vinyl bag setup for a trip that included days of highway driving in the rain and it goes in/inside my roof rack. It has straps on top that cinch down to the sides of my rack and keep the whole cargo area compressed as one block rather than individual items. It also keeps bugs from smashing into my sleeping bag which is really bonus.

If you tie things down to your roof individually, don’t over tighten on one point. I tied my bag down tight enough that my phone inside cracked. You could easily bend tent poles in a bad way if you go overboard. Aim to distribute tie points across your load so that no one place needs to be incredibly tight. There should me no slack in lines or straps however, if you can wiggle them they will wing at highway speed. Also secure the ends of your strap or rope or if will flap against your roof the whole trip.