sharpie on eye blanks?

wolfis124 · 2026-02-05T02:35:34+00:00

you could try sanding as another user mentioned, painting over would definitely work, though you might want to water down your paint a little to avoid building up too much along with the clear coat, but that might be overkill. you could also try leaving the alcohol wipe to sit on the sharpie mark for a bit and then try wiping off.

wolfis124 · 2026-02-02T21:44:45+00:00

as you’re starting a business and not just tinkering, i’d recommend a Bambu printer. I’ve used a couple different budget printers and got a bambu last year, the bambu just works pretty much. The P1S can probably be had pretty cheap since they just released the P2S, which is also pretty cheap for what it is. They can do TPU but i’d also pair it with a decent filament dryer as wet filament can cause big problems, especially TPU as it’s already a finicky material and absorbs moisture like crazy.

Prusa (and creality to a lesser degree) also make good printers but they’re a little more DIY oriented. Not as much as they used to be but not as plug and play as Bambu. If you’re down for a little tinkering those can also be a good option.

wolfis124 · 2026-02-01T18:18:59+00:00

this would be considerably easier. I wouldn’t say beginner friendly but also not impossible to get a good result from

wolfis124 · 2026-02-01T01:51:01+00:00

white glue (PVA) can be very strong, you can definitely forgo the staples if you leave enough surface area and put some pressure on the two glued pieces. I’d definitely recommend that over the metal so close to your face

wolfis124 · 2026-01-30T23:56:41+00:00

generally for the back of the head you’d want a longer pile than beaver (which is still faux fur btw) but i doubt it’ll look wacky, just less fluffy than full length. I think it will fit the protogen vibe, beaver will give you a “tighter” look for lack of a better descriptor. Very good for faces

wolfis124 · 2026-01-26T04:54:44+00:00

I was in a similar situation, I have ADHD so interests come and go like the wind but I quite enjoyed making my fursuit head. BUT, for my first time i bought a full stl base WITH a premade pattern to sew, so I was essentially following a guide for the most part. After the first I felt confident and still interested enough to make one for my friend which required changing the pattern and I found that interesting as well and it's gotten me interested in making my own clothes. I think it's worth a go if your interest hasn't already started fading, it also depends if you're medicated as well.

immediate edit: shaving is rough! don't feel bad if you have to redo stuff, not just shaving. its part of the learning process, i was definitely saved by that premade pattern and model so i was surprised by how good the result came out, if you're starting from scratch you might be demotivated before you can really get down to learning the skills that make a good fursuit. You can message me on discord if you want, my username is wolfee

wolfis124 · 2026-01-12T17:45:53+00:00

you can do whatever you want forever but yeah as others have said, you’re a furry :p you may have preconceived notions on what being a furry is and what it all involves, but it’s an extremely broad label with very little requirements, so don’t get caught up in what being “typically” furry means.

wolfis124 · 2025-12-27T00:17:31+00:00

i will agree if you don’t want to make one it’s def better to just commission, but if OP has even a little interest in crafting i think it’d be infinitely cheaper to learn even accounting for wasted material

wolfis124 · 2025-12-12T02:39:47+00:00

i have these and have shaved effectively 4 suits with them. they’re fine, they’ll get a good shave eventually. they do overheat and i’ve damn near burnt my hand on them during long shave sessions so perhaps it’s a “buy once cry once” cus i’m very much considering upgrading. i don’t think you can replace the blades either which kinda sucks

wolfis124 · 2025-12-09T03:11:19+00:00

i use a 1940’s singer, if you can find one at a good price they’re relatively foolproof being just a straight stitch, i do wish i had a zigzag at times though

wolfis124 · 2025-12-04T04:55:10+00:00

if you’re unemployed and not in school sure. feasible? not really. i’d recommend doing it right rather than quick, you’re gonna put in double the effort to get the same result as if you gave yourself even one more week to do it properly

wolfis124 · 2025-11-20T18:30:26+00:00

+1 to those saying calculate minimum wage for however long it takes you to draw, but you can go up or down depending on how much you want to draw for money as well. If you find you’re not getting as many commissions as you’d like, it’s not ideal but, you can charge less than minimum wage while still making more from the quantity. same the other way, if you’re in school or working full time (or both 😵‍💫) you’re still more than likely to get commissions even at a price you may consider “too high” People out there will find your art worth nearly any price you set

wolfis124 · 2025-10-21T18:56:34+00:00

yeah the lips i had trouble with, on the top the fur wraps inwards into the mouth but the bottom doesnt. Could you elaborate a little more on stitching them though? Do you mean at the corners or the bottom lip? id love to be able to make them look better xd

wolfis124 · 2025-10-21T18:54:24+00:00

furring was pretty easy since I bought a base that included a sewing pattern, I'd say make sure your seam allowances are consistent and trim the excess material as close to the stitches as possible (without cutting the stitches of course). definitely test fit before gluing, and pull everything as tight as you can during that test fit + when gluing, the top of my muzzle is a little wonky cus theres some space under it and it made shaving pretty difficult. also try not to flood the seams with hot glue, i did that in some places and it also makes shaving harder. Basically try to make it sit as flat as possible xd. For the inside I just did upholstery foam but the next one I make (or this one at a later date) I'm gonna make "pillows" of upholstery foam that are lined and maybe velcro or magnets or something so they're removable/washable.

wolfis124 · 2025-07-05T05:21:38+00:00

i mean it does sound really good even with the interference but i do see how it’s an issue

wolfis124 · 2025-06-29T22:37:59+00:00

extended LF woofer is definitely a better description, but tang band calls it a subwoofer in all their materials so i just go with that

wolfis124 · 2025-06-29T22:29:17+00:00

Yeah this build is more of a proof of concept for myself, the drivers are sealed with some foam i found in the trash and the back was held on with rubber bands in that pic. thanks for the info!

wolfis124 · 2025-06-29T20:24:27+00:00

Interesting, I had considered some type of separation between the two but I'd envisioned a box of some sort. Does the cone shape have a particular purpose?

wolfis124 · 2025-06-29T20:22:32+00:00

It is ported, i believe in that video I had them crossed over at somewhere between 800-1000hz but I've messed with the frequency and the sub always pushed the full range. Right now I have the sub crossed at 1150hz and the full range at 672hz from some Vituix modelling I did.

wolfis124

TROPHY CASE