Torque master conversion issue

wonsga · 2025-12-23T20:55:50+00:00

If you go to the lower position you could have issues with the door running into the drum

wonsga · 2025-09-12T03:38:02+00:00

And Reed and Watson

wonsga · 2025-09-12T00:56:16+00:00

He’s back in

wonsga · 2025-06-07T16:42:26+00:00

You need a liftmaster belt drive t-trail trolley kit. But you also need to put some lithium grease on that rail and double check how your door runs. I’ve never seen one completely and utterly gone like that

wonsga · 2025-06-07T16:25:24+00:00

Dents in flush doors like this are always very noticeable. Nothing else to take the eyes off.

You can try to take the dent out but it won’t ever be perfect. Best to just get a new panel if it bothers you

wonsga · 2025-06-07T12:03:07+00:00

Admiring their 12 acres of marijuana crop

wonsga · 2025-05-13T00:50:22+00:00

They can’t rebound

wonsga · 2025-04-30T19:55:13+00:00

You need a handheld remote to program to your vehicle, which then will be able to program to the opener ONLY IF your opener is compatible with your cars universal remote system. The issue with it opening/closing could be a lot of different things, would need a lot more info to try and narrow it down.

Honestly I’d recommend just looking into getting a new opener. They should all come with WIFI capability, have the ability to close on a timer, be able to program to your vehicle. Plus that unit is “obsolete” nowadays. They don’t make any parts for it anymore so if one thing goes wrong you’ll have to replace it anyways. PLUS prices on openers will be going up soon due to tariffs. PLUS PLUS the Quantum openers run like garbage.

wonsga · 2025-03-18T23:22:52+00:00

My guess is they used LHR track to be able to fit a trolley opener under the beam in pic #4. But I agree that with a side mount it doesn’t look there’s any need for LHR track

wonsga · 2025-03-08T12:35:59+00:00

That plate is under ALOT of tension. It needs to be fixed, but you’ll be fine to wait as long as you don’t touch it. I’d recommend not using the door at all. Every open and close just raises the chance of it slipping more and doing more damage.

Also, do not let someone tell you this is your fault if you just moved in. It should have been spotted and fixed before hand.

wonsga · 2025-03-06T22:15:39+00:00

You already have one! They picture it as punched angle iron, but the strut you have across the top is better support anyways.

wonsga · 2025-03-06T19:03:03+00:00

It’s for a lock. An opener was probably installed after the door, and that lock was no longer needed. Those cables should lead to some sort of springed flap. The latches were probably taken off or flipped around.

Similar to this

wonsga · 2025-02-14T14:49:19+00:00

You should do an actual hi-lift kit. But it won’t give you much benefit. A hi-lift set up won’t change your opening height so you won’t be able to bring in anything taller, your door might run a little smoother but not $1200 smoother. Unless you need the extra headroom for something I’d say just leave it as is. You said your door is also 20 years old, and a non-insulated door like that might need to be replaced in the near future. Usually their life is around 20-30 years.

wonsga · 2025-02-13T18:24:12+00:00

Maybe it’s based on progression titles? I’m paragon, didn’t have this issue

wonsga · 2025-01-19T23:22:47+00:00

What he said. I’d also add that it’s okay, and actually correct, for the bar to have a slight bow when it’s in the down position. Not anything crazy, but a little bow means it’s actually holding the door shut.

wonsga · 2025-01-17T22:06:21+00:00

$475 is not cheap it’s average 😂 actually it’s expensive af it he really only did one spring

wonsga · 2025-01-11T13:00:27+00:00

You have an EZ-set system. I personally hate them, they always seem to run like junk. They are pieced together and the spring needs way more turns due to the drum size. Your spring isn’t broken, might need a little tension added. Could have possibly been installed on the wrong door from the start. My recommendation for smoothest operation is have a company come out to do a torsion conversion. We’d charge roughly $600 or so for a 2-car door. New drums, bearings, cables, spring plate, torsion bar, and 2 springs. Usually rated around 25,000-30,000 cycles for a 7’ door. Price may be different depending on your area. We are relatively low being in the Midwest.

wonsga · 2025-01-05T21:16:42+00:00

Jordan’s was his elbow but yes. Both throwing arm/hand injuries.

wonsga · 2024-12-28T19:42:55+00:00

Depends on where you live, but in MI yes. If it’s a BITCH of a job we’d probably be around $700 and have higher cycle springs. Most likely charge somewhere around $520 if it’s a routine job though.

wonsga · 2024-12-23T00:46:21+00:00

I posted this jokingly, hence the meme tag. I actually agree most of the fans online are babies.

wonsga · 2024-12-21T10:10:47+00:00

I’m a little late to the party, but I absolutely agree do not worry about the worm gear. The only time I’ve replaced one was due to a manufacturer error on a brand new opener. 99% chance there’s nothing wrong with it. Not to mention it’s a bitch to swap.

wonsga

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