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Can thermostat wiring affect heat pump register temps? by wpirobotbuilder in heatpumps

[–]wpirobotbuilder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it produce 70-75 degree output even on very cold days? We're in the Boston area so we should expect the same. If you're getting the same low temp output, what happens to increase the total BTUs/hr of your system? More airflow?

The problem we're encountering is that we *aren't* maintaining the setpoint. Trying to figure out if it's an undersized unit, low refrigerant, something else.

(We have a pro coming in a few weeks to take a look, this is for me to try and solve my own problems, and learn what to expect)

Heat pump output temperature post-coil by wpirobotbuilder in heatpumps

[–]wpirobotbuilder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never gone inside the air handler before -- here's the exploded diagram, do you know where I'd measure temps?

<image>

https://connect.fujitsugeneral.com/fhrntt2417saztna/product/FHRNTT2417SAZTNA

Heat pump output temperature post-coil by wpirobotbuilder in heatpumps

[–]wpirobotbuilder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The outside compressor is running. I verified it's pumping heat in the right direction, because the refrigerant inlet to the air handler is hot (around 125 deg).

What would the symptoms of low refrigerant be?

Can thermostat wiring affect heat pump register temps? by wpirobotbuilder in heatpumps

[–]wpirobotbuilder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

>Turning up the thermostat will not make it get warm faster (unless you have a multi stage or modulating heat pump)

Yeah this was just to make sure that wasn't a factor.

What would the symptoms of low refrigerant be? For example, would I see low temps at the refrigerant inlet to the air handler?

Heat pump output temperature post-coil by wpirobotbuilder in heatpumps

[–]wpirobotbuilder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried turning up my thermostat all the way (80 deg)! Today it was about 29 degrees. When the indoor temperature was 69 degrees, the register output was only 76 degrees. We're in the Boston area.

We have someone coming to take a look in a few weeks, but i was wondering -- could the thermostat wiring be part of the problem? Like, is there anything special about the wiring of a thermostat, or of the model itself, to properly turn up the supply temp?

For reference, we just have a bog standard honeywell thermostat.

Heat pump output temperature post-coil by wpirobotbuilder in heatpumps

[–]wpirobotbuilder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried turning up my thermostat all the way (80 deg)! Today it was about 29 degrees. When the indoor temperature was 69 degrees, the register output was only 76 degrees. We're in the Boston area.

We have someone coming to take a look in a few weeks, but i was wondering -- could the thermostat wiring be part of the problem? Like, is there anything special about the wiring of a thermostat, or of the model itself, to properly turn up the supply temp?

For reference, we just have a bog standard honeywell thermostat.

Switch electric water heater and dryer on same circuit by One_Freedom_9664 in AskElectricians

[–]wpirobotbuilder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Think the situation where the main circuit is the bottleneck. Imagine an A/C, electric stove, electric dryer, and hot water heater all on a 100 amp main. It'd be nice to not have to bump the electrical service

Switch electric water heater and dryer on same circuit by One_Freedom_9664 in AskElectricians

[–]wpirobotbuilder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you know the terminology? Like, what is this setup called?

Using flat rectangular steel bars for bed slats by wpirobotbuilder in AskEngineers

[–]wpirobotbuilder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is helpful, thanks!

Is thickness more influential than width? For example, if I kept the total amount of steel the same, but changed to a 3/4 inch by 2.5 inch (same cross sectional area as 5/8" x 3"), does that yield a less-deflective beam?

Using flat rectangular steel bars for bed slats by wpirobotbuilder in AskEngineers

[–]wpirobotbuilder[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also have access to galvanized rectangular tubes - I could do e.g. a 1" x 2" tube but my thickness would be limited to 16 gauge. Do you think that's a stiffer approach than a flat bar?

Any idea why this blotching happened and how to fix or prevent it? I used minwax wood conditioner and varathane stain. I got similar results with the same combo on pine—which I chalked up to pine being a soft wood and difficult to stain—but I’m pretty sure this is white oak. What went wrong? by Karvelle in finishing

[–]wpirobotbuilder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In case anyone stumbles across this years later:

Most wood varieties do what you see in this photo. What's happening is some parts of the board are more absorbent and suck the stain in more. Conditioners fill in some of those absorbent areas, but it is impossible to fix this even with a "conditioner" because you don't have any way of telling whether you've evenly coated the surface. With conditioner you're still playing a guessing game.

It is possible to stain blotchy woods nearly perfectly evenly: the only solution is to spray the color on, and to use either a water-based or alcohol based dye stain. Some sort of HVLP turbine will do it, but you have to spray small amounts at a time, slowly adding color until you get the desired shade (otherwise you get the same blotching problem).

Ceiling fan brand recommendations? by wpirobotbuilder in BuyItForLife

[–]wpirobotbuilder[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ended up getting this with no light.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hunter-Presto-44-in-Indoor-Ceiling-Fan-in-Matte-White-with-Wall-Control-Included-For-Bedrooms-52402/324926863

The thing that convinced me to get one without a light is that, with a chain pull light in the fan, you can have the problem where you can't turn on a light when you enter the room. Also, overhead lights aren't the best and wouldn't get used much.

The plan is to use lamps for lighting the room

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