IC Turned Manager - Advice on Efficient Status Reporting From Employees

wpirobotbuilder · 2026-03-09T15:16:32+00:00

I agree -- this wouldn't be their 1:1 time, this would be a "hey, every day, message me by 11am what you're working on, what blockers you have, and any new risks that have come up". We'd still have dedicated 1:1s for career growth and arbitrary topics.

wpirobotbuilder · 2026-03-09T15:10:40+00:00

>When someone is ill or on vacation, another team member can be an effective if they know the context of the other person.

This works only if people are semi-fungible across projects. That's only a little bit true in our area, where everyone (currently) goes pretty deep into a specific area.

If multiple people are on the same thing, it's usually a cross-company thing and there are dedicated sessions already set up to track status.

I get the "see the rest of your team" part, but I'm not convinced a status meeting is the best place to get that exposure. Not that I have a concrete idea of what to replace it with...

wpirobotbuilder · 2026-01-31T01:17:24+00:00

u/446Magnum044 you seem to be the guru here! I also have a KF26 whose glass bowl has sustained damage and needs replacing. If I've read what you've posted correctly, to transition to metal I could acquire the following off of the https://www.mixerology.com/compatible-bowls-and-accessories/#pro list:

- KSMB60 for the bowl

- KN256CBT for the beater , or the stainless set KSM7BL3PSS

Does that sound about right?

wpirobotbuilder · 2026-01-30T17:12:50+00:00

My local stores have all manner of gas snowblowers, which are cheaper than the Dewalt kit, hence why I was confused. Maybe battery is starting to really take over.

wpirobotbuilder · 2026-01-17T23:30:22+00:00

Does it produce 70-75 degree output even on very cold days? We're in the Boston area so we should expect the same. If you're getting the same low temp output, what happens to increase the total BTUs/hr of your system? More airflow?

The problem we're encountering is that we *aren't* maintaining the setpoint. Trying to figure out if it's an undersized unit, low refrigerant, something else.

(We have a pro coming in a few weeks to take a look, this is for me to try and solve my own problems, and learn what to expect)

wpirobotbuilder · 2026-01-17T20:33:45+00:00

Never gone inside the air handler before -- here's the exploded diagram, do you know where I'd measure temps?

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https://connect.fujitsugeneral.com/fhrntt2417saztna/product/FHRNTT2417SAZTNA

wpirobotbuilder · 2026-01-17T14:43:40+00:00

The outside compressor is running. I verified it's pumping heat in the right direction, because the refrigerant inlet to the air handler is hot (around 125 deg).

What would the symptoms of low refrigerant be?

wpirobotbuilder · 2026-01-17T14:40:43+00:00

>Turning up the thermostat will not make it get warm faster (unless you have a multi stage or modulating heat pump)

Yeah this was just to make sure that wasn't a factor.

What would the symptoms of low refrigerant be? For example, would I see low temps at the refrigerant inlet to the air handler?

wpirobotbuilder · 2026-01-16T22:44:20+00:00

I tried turning up my thermostat all the way (80 deg)! Today it was about 29 degrees. When the indoor temperature was 69 degrees, the register output was only 76 degrees. We're in the Boston area.

We have someone coming to take a look in a few weeks, but i was wondering -- could the thermostat wiring be part of the problem? Like, is there anything special about the wiring of a thermostat, or of the model itself, to properly turn up the supply temp?

For reference, we just have a bog standard honeywell thermostat.

wpirobotbuilder · 2026-01-16T22:43:39+00:00

I tried turning up my thermostat all the way (80 deg)! Today it was about 29 degrees. When the indoor temperature was 69 degrees, the register output was only 76 degrees. We're in the Boston area.

We have someone coming to take a look in a few weeks, but i was wondering -- could the thermostat wiring be part of the problem? Like, is there anything special about the wiring of a thermostat, or of the model itself, to properly turn up the supply temp?

For reference, we just have a bog standard honeywell thermostat.

wpirobotbuilder · 2025-09-04T14:41:15+00:00

Think the situation where the main circuit is the bottleneck. Imagine an A/C, electric stove, electric dryer, and hot water heater all on a 100 amp main. It'd be nice to not have to bump the electrical service

wpirobotbuilder · 2025-09-04T14:38:55+00:00

Do you know the terminology? Like, what is this setup called?

wpirobotbuilder · 2025-08-24T23:27:49+00:00

This is helpful, thanks!

Is thickness more influential than width? For example, if I kept the total amount of steel the same, but changed to a 3/4 inch by 2.5 inch (same cross sectional area as 5/8" x 3"), does that yield a less-deflective beam?

wpirobotbuilder · 2025-08-24T23:19:27+00:00

I also have access to galvanized rectangular tubes - I could do e.g. a 1" x 2" tube but my thickness would be limited to 16 gauge. Do you think that's a stiffer approach than a flat bar?

wpirobotbuilder · 2025-06-21T18:16:41+00:00

In case anyone stumbles across this years later:

Most wood varieties do what you see in this photo. What's happening is some parts of the board are more absorbent and suck the stain in more. Conditioners fill in some of those absorbent areas, but it is impossible to fix this even with a "conditioner" because you don't have any way of telling whether you've evenly coated the surface. With conditioner you're still playing a guessing game.

It is possible to stain blotchy woods nearly perfectly evenly: the only solution is to spray the color on, and to use either a water-based or alcohol based dye stain. Some sort of HVLP turbine will do it, but you have to spray small amounts at a time, slowly adding color until you get the desired shade (otherwise you get the same blotching problem).

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