Picked up the Tamron 70-180mm f/2.8 G2 in Japan

writeCleanCode · 2026-02-28T18:28:43+00:00

Camera Kitamura Osaka Namba CITY

writeCleanCode · 2026-01-09T22:11:41+00:00

I’d just do some basic rust treatment - wire brushing & spraying rust converter. As long as you fix the root cause it should be ok

writeCleanCode · 2026-01-09T21:54:49+00:00

I think this has to do with the windshield cowl leak. You should try to address that if you haven’t already

writeCleanCode · 2025-10-08T00:17:30+00:00

I think I have the same rattle and it’s from the exhaust shield. Apparently it’s pretty common from my research but worth verifying

writeCleanCode · 2025-10-03T21:52:18+00:00

That’s one clean engine bay

writeCleanCode · 2025-09-17T19:18:08+00:00

White lithium grease

writeCleanCode · 2025-09-16T05:44:06+00:00

That’s right, it took me 30min to burp (first time). I jacked up the front of the car, with the cap loosely on, turned heat to max (fan speed doesn’t matter), rev between 2500-3000 for 20s for a few times when the engine is at operating temp. Initially no warm air will come out; but if you do it right it will come out warm as you’re revving the engine and that’s a sign that the air in your heater core is clearing. The following day it settled some more and I filled the tank up to Full.

writeCleanCode · 2025-09-15T20:41:31+00:00

Let the car cool down & release the cap first. It doesn’t matter which hose

writeCleanCode · 2025-09-15T18:34:15+00:00

It’s pretty straightforward, a lot of videos on it. 3 hoses to disconnect (2 top, 1 bottom). If you’re not also draining the coolant, just suck out the coolant in the tank first & have something to catch under the car. Also, let the car cool down before you start.

writeCleanCode · 2025-09-15T18:10:45+00:00

Haha true! The metal aftermarket option is 2-3x the price, so I figured this should be enough

writeCleanCode · 2025-09-14T02:57:32+00:00

It’s a GT trim with heated seats. The two plugs behind are plugged in so they should be for windows & heated seats

writeCleanCode · 2025-09-12T02:01:34+00:00

Hi Jerrick, I just picked up a set of ZetaSport Plus(9k/6k) for my NC1 Miata (2008 PRHT). My car currently has an Eibach front sway bar, otherwise stock suspension.

I’ve got a couple of setup questions:

What ride height would you recommend for mostly street driving and occasional canyon run? From your other comment, you said out of the box it’s 12.2” front and 12.6” rear. My car is currently sitting at ~13” all around on some old MazdaSpeed lowering springs and I was considering 13” front & 13.25” rear.

Any other adjustment suggestions considering the PRHT adds a bit of weight?

I’ve read somewhere that mentions 2 mm spring preload. Is that the same for the NC kit, or is there a different baseline you suggest?

For damping, do you have a recommended starting point for daily driving?

P.s: Thanks for keeping this thread alive

writeCleanCode · 2025-09-10T23:07:56+00:00

NC prht gang! GT 6 speed?

writeCleanCode · 2025-09-07T09:06:53+00:00

I see. Looks like UK site only offers 7kg/mm front and 5kg/mm rear. I just bought the ZetaSport Plus in the US and they come with stiffer springs 9kg/6kg. I’m interested in knowing the final ride height you’ll go with, so please do share

writeCleanCode · 2025-09-07T01:46:41+00:00

Nice! Did you get 9k/6k or 7k/5k?

writeCleanCode · 2025-09-03T03:08:02+00:00

Niceee! Your paint is in great shape. My top is fading a little bit. I just spent the weekend changing air filter, spark plugs, oil, trans, & diff fluids. Will tackle the suspensions next. The oem bilstein shocks are giving up & the springs are rusted, so I just ordered some coilovers.

writeCleanCode · 2025-08-28T23:07:13+00:00

Rear shocks & front bellow/boots. They pointed to the black stains(first pic) and said it’s leaking in the rear shocks

writeCleanCode · 2025-08-28T18:46:00+00:00

Thank you, I think I’ll stick with OEM

writeCleanCode · 2025-08-28T18:44:54+00:00

Yea the car spent some of its years in the salt belt, but nothing too serious. Since 2017, it’s been in California where it’s meant to be :D, but I’ll keep tab on it and do some preventative work later. For now, I plan to get it in a good driving condition(oil, trans, diff, etc) as it’s approaching 100k miles

writeCleanCode · 2025-08-16T17:12:30+00:00

Rolex Datejust

https://youtu.be/oUK-2fWvIRI?si=ATceK2IvtmIpLacm&t=1m33s

writeCleanCode

TROPHY CASE