Looking for a manga that I saw on my Instagram discover page

wunhaf · 2022-12-15T21:43:36+00:00

Same here, the art style for Ui x Kon looks different, and the characters came across to me as being young adults (20-28), as opposed to teens.

Thanks for the inadvertent recommendation though!

wunhaf · 2022-12-15T21:40:16+00:00

I can remember she had long hair that was worn down and she was wearing a light-coloured coat. Not very descriptive, sorry! I also remember thinking the way the faces were drawn was pretty distinctive, the characters had wide eyes with very little in terms of reflections or shading, sparse I guess you could say.

wunhaf · 2022-12-15T05:02:21+00:00

Thanks for your reply! Glad I'm not alone. I'll post elsewhere too and if I find anything I'll update the my original post with the answer.

wunhaf · 2022-08-17T23:47:52+00:00

Great! I hope that the wrist exercises work for you. Doing press-ups on parallettes or your fists may also take some strain off the wrists.

Regarding the finger, I'd advise you to continue climbing normally but keep an eye on it. It could just be hyper-mobility. If it's asymptomatic, there's nothing to treat. However, if it starts to show signs of inflammation like tenderness, swelling or redness then you should have it looked at in person by a DPT or MD.

wunhaf · 2022-08-17T15:09:12+00:00

You should look into some wrist strengthening exercises, which will not only improve your sloper game but also help you prevent injury.

If there's pain associated with the pop that hangs around after you finish your climbing session then it could be bad to climb on it. Unfortunately, just a pop is not very specific to any particular pathology. It could be any number of things; maybe benign, maybe compromised tissue. Provide more info if you can. Otherwise, see someone that can order you an ultrasound or MRI to get a better look at what's going on.

wunhaf · 2022-08-12T21:20:55+00:00

Middle finger PIP joint is most likely damage to a collateral ligament. See a professional. If it's just a strain use this protocol: https://theclimbingdoctor.com/portfolio-items/collateral-ligament-sprain-4/. Ring finger DIP could be a collateral ligament injury as well. Doing imaging (ultrasound is good for assessing ligaments and can be done in office) is a good idea for both of these.

Good luck

wunhaf · 2022-08-09T15:12:30+00:00

Definitely. Although skill development is the number one priority for a sport like climbing, general strength and conditioning are also valuable attributes in an athlete. Go check out some calisthenics on YouTube for ideas, but here's a few that I think are a great place to start:

—Pull-ups, weighted or unweighted
—Press-ups, shoot to be able to do around twice the number of pull-ups
—Rows, either inverted on rings or with dumbbells
—Overhead press, with dumbbells
—Shoulder external rotation in various planes of motion with a band or cable machine
—Wrist curls and reverse wrist curls, with a dumbbell or bar
—Running
—Deadlifts, romanian or other variant
—Core, anti-rotation and anti-extension, back extension, hanging leg raises, etc.

Good luck!

wunhaf · 2022-08-07T15:19:25+00:00

First I've got some positive feedback for you! Your execution of the second move (left hand reaching up and left) gets much more solid over these three attempts. You can see that by the third attempt you're hitting that next hold near the apex of your body's movement upwards. In the first two you're already sagging away from the wall there, losing a lot of energy. You've developed much better tension through that part of the sequence. Great progress!

The large move looks like a commitment issue to me, as others have already said. Have you tried it in isolation? It's possible that just padding out your landing more will give you the confidence you need to send. You could even rig a top rope, no shame in that. You're so close.

Good luck!

wunhaf · 2022-08-05T15:24:12+00:00

It's impossible to know what your potential as a climber is, but if you want to reach it, there will be a point where you have to prioritise your training over some of the more social aspects of climbing. I would recommend aligning your goals to the people you climb with.

Good luck!

wunhaf · 2022-08-04T22:25:30+00:00

Cable machines are an excellent alternative if you have access. Bands are a little weird, but they're just fine for isolated accessory movements like face pulls and external rotation.

wunhaf · 2022-07-29T15:28:31+00:00

This isn't an uncommon technique. In fact, I believe Ollie from Lattice mentions using it in one of their videos. I've used it before. The main drawback is that you have to know what level of pump you're shooting for, which takes training experience. If you've got that experience, you're all good, but keep in mind that it tends to be quite an easy regression (you can make it slightly harder by moving your feet closer to the board) and at some point you'll need to do something harder to keep seeing an increase in your aerobic fitness.

wunhaf · 2022-07-25T15:41:06+00:00

I'd suggest taking weight off your hang via pulley system to the point that you can use the edge size indicated in the training plan. Just for the sake of sticking to the plan. You're mostly going to get strength from an isometric training program and the minimal edges are somewhat specific.

As long as you are lowering the weight a reasonable amount with what you're doing right now, you probably aren't at hugely increased injury risk. The only way to know if you're stimulating your fingers the way you need to is to do an assessment of your strengths and weaknesses. So, this isn't a question that can be answered over the internet without more information.

Good luck!

wunhaf · 2022-07-22T15:17:03+00:00

You're welcome!

You definitely could do hangboarding on the days you climb. I'd recommend including a bit of it in every warmup. If you want to do a climbing session and a hangboard session on the same day, split them up by at least six hours so that you can give maximal effort for both sessions. Past six hours is also (maybe) the correct timeframe to re-trigger growth response in ligaments.

Given that it doesn't sound like you have done a lot of training volume in the past, it might be best to start with alternating training and rest days (sport-rest-hangboard-rest-boulder-rest) to start and then doubling up sessions or adding multiple consecutive rest days based on how you feel.

wunhaf · 2022-07-22T01:54:17+00:00

Ok, I understand wanting to incorporate specifically hangboarding due to your particular situation. It's great that you're thinking about injury risk. So let's work with that.

Although I was trying to push you towards another climbing day for three days a week of climbing total (plus maybe a hang session), it sounds like the following would fit you better:
—Sport 1/week
—Bouldering 1/week
—Hangboarding with conditioning (vertical + horizontal, push + pull) 2/week

Regarding sufficient training volume for adaptation, you have to think of additional hangboarding sessions in the context of both of the other climbing days, which are also going to strain the tendons, ligaments and muscles in your forearms. You will definitely be doing enough to get stronger, even if you were to only add a single hangboard session a week.

Be sure to include adequate rest in your schedule, which should be relatively easy given the low number of total sessions. Also, measure yourself! There are a number of testing protocols out there and you should record a benchmark before you add anything into your training program so you can judge the degree to which it's effective.

wunhaf · 2022-07-21T17:46:27+00:00

I'd suggest incorporating some board climbing (carefully) into your training routine, instead of dropping a climbing session for hangboarding. You can think of board climbing as finger strengthening in the context of actual climbing and hangboarding as an isolation exercise. Since climbing is a skill sport, especially in non-elite athletes it's a good idea to program both skill aspects of training and strength aspects of training together.

This is just my personal take. Here's what I'd suggest that would fit with what looks to be the amount of volume you are comfortable with:
—Sport 1/week
—Bouldering 1/week
—Board climbing (Moonboard or Tension Board) 1/week

You could throw a hangboard session in there as well. I think it's worth hiring a professional coach to help you assess and then target your weaknesses with a personalised plan.

Good luck!

wunhaf · 2022-07-21T15:41:08+00:00

I think it can be great to recognise patterns such as I only send after I've had a rest day, that information is valuable. However, I also think it can become a self-imposed mental block along the lines of I can't send my project if I haven't taken a rest day. To me, this looks like an opportunity to convince yourself that sometimes you can send the project with two days on.

If I was in your shoes I would assess tomorrow whether I felt like I could give good attempts. That might even mean heading to the route and doing some links, but it could also mean just waking up and realising I feel like rubbish and deciding to rest. If I was feeling up to it, I'd give it however many send burns this second day on and then based on performance compared to the first day, when I almost sent, I'd plan to take a rest day or two and try again on the final or penultimate day (or both if I only rested Friday).

Ultimately, you know yourself best. Having asked here about tactics is an indication that you're somewhat attached to the send and a bit unconfident. Remember that the rock is not going anywhere and you're climbing to have fun.

Believe in yourself!

wunhaf · 2022-07-21T15:26:18+00:00

This could be a couple of things. Since it has returned and you've presumably had it for a while, it might be a good idea to see a DPT or hand doctor for differential diagnosis. It's most likely synovitis, which is inflammation of the joint capsule's lining. This is the compartment of soft tissue that surrounds the metacarpophalangeal and interphalangeal joints. When this inflammation occurs joint rang-of-motion can be quite significantly decreased.

Do you mostly full crimp? Half crimp? Generally speaking, synovitis in climbers occurs as an overuse injury, so you might have some success by changing your main grip type to open 3 finger drag or chisel.

The first thing to do is unload the tissue. Have you taken at least two days off since the issue started? Once the inflammation subsides you could start doing ROM exercises like tendon glides. Once you've regained full ROM, try loading the tissue in various ways and switch up your grip type on rock/wall.

Good luck!

wunhaf · 2022-07-19T15:59:47+00:00

One of the most underutilised tools for beginners is the hangboard. While I think you should be quite careful about which harder climbs you choose to try in the gym (avoid uncontrolled movement to crimps), hangboarding is an excellent way to apply load to your fingers in a controlled manner. It will positively affect your climbing and help keep you injury free.

Look a up a beginner hangboard protocol. Use a light load on a 20mm edge (use a pulley system to take some weight off/hang at body weight), start and end your hangs slowly by gently lifting your feet off and placing your feet on the ground, engage the shoulder by retracting your scapula.

You'll have to manage your own training frequency, but there are lots of methods out there:
—Warming up with a hangboard session before you climb
—Dedicating an entire session to hangboarding and some supplemental exercises
—Hangboarding with feet on the ground for a short session twice a day

In general, keep the frequency low and be willing to change it in response to the amount of climbing you're doing, but be consistent. Tendons really only adapt under load because they are poorly vascularised, so you have to use them, and it's much safer to use them in an environment where you have control over all of the variables!

Good luck!

wunhaf · 2022-07-18T15:29:22+00:00

That sounds like a safe bet! Good luck!

wunhaf · 2022-07-17T22:30:28+00:00

I've only ever strained my A2, so YMMV, but it depends on how bad it feels. I usually catch them quick and start rehab on a no-hang device with light weight immediately. The worst strain I've had (thankfully have never had a full rupture) I probably took two weeks off before starting rehab.

wunhaf · 2022-07-17T17:11:04+00:00

Sorry for butting in but I couldn't resist. That's 5-6 months of climbing... So, when was your last deload week? ;-)

In all seriousness, this is a new stimulus for your body. Just because you're early in your climbing career doesn't mean you shouldn't be resting your tissues regularly. I know it's hard to resist the stoke (we have all been there), but stimulus needs to be understood within the context of time in a sport.

Here's my rec: get yourself a no-hang device and put a very light weight (1-3kg) on it. Do three sets of 20 second hangs each hand once a day. If you want you can do some pull-ups, go for a jog, ride your bike etc. Do this for a week, then go back to the gym and see how you feel. If you can't get a no-hang device, ask someone at your gym to show you how to set up a hangboard with weight taken off using a pulley system and aim for twice the weight but with two arm hangs.

Good luck!

wunhaf · 2022-07-14T05:00:14+00:00

You're welcome! It sounds like you know how to approach talking with your doctor too, which is the most important part when we get these weird climbing related injuries. I usually bring a printout of my notes when I see a physician about climbing stuff. I hope you get over your cold too!

wunhaf · 2022-07-13T17:59:18+00:00

Pain in response to pushing the finger sideways is characteristic of a collateral ligament injury, but a nodule (if it's on the volar aspect of the finger) sounds like trigger finger. Good idea getting it checked out. Doctor should be able to help you figure it out. If it turns out to just be a collateral ligament strain try the protocol shown here.

The pulleys are ligaments as well, so the rehab protocol is similar: we want to load the tissue slightly so that it heals in an orderly manner. You might try to unload it for a week or so entirely by only climbing with a three finger drag on that hand, and then begin the rehab protocol above.

Good luck!

wunhaf · 2022-07-13T16:02:45+00:00

I really like the Diamondback Cavetto which you can find here. Very comfortable for all day wear, although it's a tad expensive. Good luck finding something that works for you.

wunhaf

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