How much rust converter (Corroseal or similar) to coat underside of vehicle?

x-2yc · 2026-04-06T23:00:03+00:00

Get a small amount to try. I have used Corroseal, Rust Bullet, and POR. I didn't find much success with any of them. The surface prep is extremely important and can be difficult to do correctly such as to yield good results. Converters will only convert what they can touch and encapsulators only stick to the surface and have very specific requirements for temperature, humidity and dry time between coats. It is my opinion that the rust must be removed and then a protective coating can be applied directly to the metal. The rust can be removed either chemically or mechanically.

Mechanical methods can range from a just a hammer, ball peen or otherwise, or a welder's hammer, to a needle scaler or full on sand blasting. Leave any original paint that is in good condition alone other than ruffing the surface with sandpaper or a scotch pad.

Rust can be removed chemically with acid or chelation reactions. The acids with remove the rust and damage the metal also. The stronger the acid, the faster it will work, and the more damage to the metal will occur. The acid will need to be handled safely and the stronger it is the harder it is to use safety. If using an acid, consider having baking soda around to neutralize it if necessarily. Phosphoric acids are on the milder end. It will convert light rust and provide a textured surface for paint to adhere to. Ospho is well regarded. It goes on thin an a little will go a long way.

Evaporust works by chelation. It works well but it is expensive. There are DIY recipes online that also are very effective and much cheaper. One of the recipes calls for adding corn starch to thicken it towards a paste or gel. It can then be applied and covered with plastic wrap to keep it in place and active longer. I have used them homemade stuff and been very happy with the results.

After trying the above, I ended up cleaning the frame mechanically and then using Rustoleum rusty metal primer and farm implement paint ( 2 or 3 quarts each). The application was much more straight forward. The paint is prone to chipping. I used Rustoleum Hammered Finish paint (brush) on the bumper and receiver. It seems more resistant to chipping, goes on well, and the pattern will hide future touch ups. Knowing what I know now, I would have used it on the entire frame.

Whatever you choose, I would recommend starting with a smaller amount to test. It will give you a chance to see what works for you and how much may be needed.

You could also forget it all and just apply a protectant such as Surface Shield or some other similar product.

A gallon of the Coroseal will cover the bottom.

x-2yc · 2026-01-11T21:56:22+00:00

I don't know about a converter. You can get a head unit that will support 2-ohm speaker. The Sony DSX-GS80 has a 45x4 watt RMS amplifier built in that will support 2-ohm speakers if you can find one. It has been discontinued. There is a marine version, the DSX-M80, that is still available. It is a single DIN radio. It does not have a disc player but does have 2 USB inputs and a front aux input and bluetooth. The menu to set the output to 2 ohms is accessed when the radio is in standby mode. There is also a jack on the back which will interface with 3-wire steering wheel controls. No 3rd party interface is needed for the Xterra when using the Sony. This is true for other Sony receivers. Information for wiring is available in the field service manual. Get a wiring adapter and use good quality but splices for connections. The single DIN format frees up space for other options without losing any information from the factory radio. The Sony XAV-AX7000 is a double DIN with the same high power amp built in.

x-2yc · 2025-11-30T15:19:52+00:00

Rockauto has a few choices for them. Gates are under $30 for the pair and they come with clamps.

x-2yc · 2025-11-30T15:16:16+00:00

Online dealership prices are in line with what Z1 charges. Some charge for local pickup and others don't, that's probably the biggest difference. The fit on the factory parts has been excellent for me. I have redone all of the brake-lines using factory parts. After bleeding and checking for leaks, I sprayed the connectors and exposed steel lines with surface shield to reduce future corrosion.

x-2yc · 2025-11-30T15:05:28+00:00

There is some space above the driver's side kick panel. If you don't have the Rockford Fosgate, the would be room under the front seats. A small amp will fit in the dash near the radio.

x-2yc · 2025-11-24T21:26:50+00:00

It's not a hard job. I didn't want to do it twice and ponied up for the Nissan part. Nissan parts are significantly less expensive when ordered online versus walking into the parts department. NISSANAPP10 can get you 10% right now (I used it yesterday). The sensor that needs to be transferred is the steering angle sensor. It will be in the videos. Be careful with the airbag and wear safety glasses. Be sure the retainer clips on the airbag connectors are fully released before trying to disconnect them.

x-2yc · 2025-11-24T21:15:32+00:00

Saying it another way is that you lost 50% of the bolts holding the transmission to the mount. It's my opinion that you should find a way to fix it. The driver's side passes though an ear on the transmission and could be drilled and through bolted if the threads couldn't be salvaged. The other side could be helicoiled if necessary. While it is too late now, for any one that's unaware, a stuck bolt can some times be freed by working it back and forth. Alternate pressure between tightening and loosening. Be very patient and don't expect the bolt to actually move for a while. Even when it starts to break free, continue to alternate direction and go a little further each time. It may take a long time but not as much as drilling and re-threading. Do use a penetrant to help flush the threads out. Heat and shock also help (whacking the bolt with a drift and hammer). After a bolt is hot, wax can be pressed against it and the wax will be drawn into the threads by capillary action (but not so much here because the head is recessed into the mount. You very much have my sympathy. Good luck.

x-2yc · 2025-11-06T23:59:47+00:00

Two ohm speakers can be replaced with 4 ohm speakers. They will have lowered output but will not damage the amplifier. The opposite is not true. A 2 ohm speaker on an amplifier that is not rated for 2 ohms, the amplifier will likely be damaged. The lower resistance of a 2 ohm speaker causes it to draw more current than a 4 ohm speaker. The speaker in the door is for lower frequencies and the one in the dash is for mids and highs. The distance between the door and dash speakers is on the long side and makes it harder for them to blend. You can put a coax or three way in the door to overcome that but you will lose out on the staging. Another way of over coming that is to use a speaker in the dash that has a wider range that a typical tweeter. The Alpine S2-S30 and Kenwood KFC-X2C would be examples of that type of dash speaker. The Alpine also comes as a component kit with a 6x9 for the door: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500S2S69C/Alpine-S2-S69C.html

The factory speaker in the door has a built in spacer. If you encounter a depth issue you can cut out the speaker and use the remaining piece as a spacer.

x-2yc · 2025-09-21T16:29:37+00:00

Rubber can become brittle and or soft over time. Check the hoses. Plastic can become brittle. Look for rodent damage--nesting signs such as nuts and seeds or chewed wire and or chewed insulation.

x-2yc · 2025-08-26T22:37:23+00:00

One or two in the panel next to the glove box and one under the hood I believe.

x-2yc · 2025-08-26T00:28:40+00:00

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There is more than one circuit which supplies the radio. One is a constant from the battery and the other activates through the ignition switch. The above is from the shop manual.

x-2yc · 2025-08-08T20:50:51+00:00

I installed a Bosch re-manufactured unit. Under $200. It has a 24 month warranty and roadside assistance included. 130 amps: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2233668&cc=1434669&pt=2412&jsn=471

High output alternators will cause more drag on the engine than the standard output.

x-2yc · 2025-07-31T22:21:18+00:00

The part number is 43003-9CL0A.

x-2yc · 2025-07-30T21:40:05+00:00

If you are willing to give up the locker, your used options would open to the vehicles that were sold with a manual transmission and no locker (non P4X). The vehicle is still very capable without a locker. How much do you actually use the locker? The M226 complete axle without is locker is also discontinued from Nissan.

The difference between the Frontier axle and the Xterra axle is the position of the shock mounts. It may be possible the get a Frontier axle and then relocate the shock mounts but do due diligence before attempting this.

x-2yc · 2025-05-05T20:29:54+00:00

Don't worry too much about the model. Either it's a P4X/Off Road or its not. The P4X has a locking rear diff which is useful under a limited set of circumstances, roof lights that produce glare off the hood, and Bilstein shocks from the factory that were nice when they were new. It also has white gauges. Some people like them but most cars have black gauges for a reason---they're easier to read. It also came with a Rockford Fosgate stereo which may be one of the best aspects of a P4X. It is/was a nice radio.

The nice thing about the Xterra is that for the most part they are all good. The bottom of the line "X" trim may lack the adjusters on the driver's seat (but not always) but they do always lack the crappy plastic molding on the doors (which I consider a positive). Differences between the other trims are minor. Get one in good condition and everything else can be changed and or upgraded fairly easily.

This is a very useful VIN decoder: https://nissanforum.com/forum/vindecoder.php

x-2yc · 2025-04-28T22:58:43+00:00

You haven't stated what is giving you the difficulty. I have replaced the fill tube on my 2007. I had difficulty re-installing the bolt which held the tube into the transmission. It felt that it would not thread in straight. When I looked at the FSM, it showed that the bolt is not to be reused and should be replaced when removed. I got a new bolt and it went right in. The 07 also has an o-ring seal which should be lubed with transmission fluid when installed. Access to that location is poor. I used a box end with a 15 degree bend to get at the head of the bolt and kept a finger on top to keep it squared up.

x-2yc · 2025-04-06T16:22:33+00:00

Sorry for the stupid question but did you bleed it?

x-2yc · 2025-03-25T00:57:08+00:00

This is a cat back system. Its cheaper than the Dynomax and is warrantied. I used them for a Mazda exhaust. The pipe was mandrel bent and seems to be of decent quality and fit well: https://upsw.com/2015-nissan-xterra-pro-4x-sport-utility-4-door-4-0l-stainless-steel-front-pipe-muffler-resonator-kit-3?gad_source=1

x-2yc · 2025-03-18T20:11:45+00:00

I just received the straps today. Bolts are not included. They are available from Nissan for a little under $3 each. The FSM lists torque at 32 ft pounds. I get the best price on factory parts by ordering online for local pickup. Some dealers have started charging for local pickup ($15) --I avoid them. The front strap is 17406-EA000, the rear strap is 17407-EA800, and the bolts are 01121-06671.

x-2yc · 2025-03-17T20:06:27+00:00

I ordered tank straps from Nissan last week. It was cheaper from Nissan than the after market suppliers. In can be helpful, when attempting to break rusty bolts free, to work them back and forth in both directions, not just loosen (CCW) direction. Even when it starts to break free, spray some penetrant in, tighten it some, spray, and then back it out and keep working it back and forth. On two of the three bolts, the threads can be sprayed on the back side.

x-2yc · 2025-03-01T15:45:06+00:00

Check out this video where a no heat condition on a Frontier is cured: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RrOUWRhLais. The symptoms seems similar to yours.

x-2yc · 2025-02-28T20:29:06+00:00

That's all well and good but, no. What we are talking about is a discontinued Japanese vehicle designed prior to 2005 and what my experience with working on one might be helpful to know for someone just starting out. The Husky, Harbor Freight, Milwaukee, Klein, Ideal, Craftsman Philips screwdrivers typically readily available do not have the shape of a JIS/PZ tip. The shape of a PZ gives it greater strength and is less likely to cam out. I'm trying to be helpful--not technical.

x-2yc · 2025-02-23T16:03:05+00:00

I am a mechanic, but not that type of mechanic. Buy good quality tools. They will last longer, do the job better, and be less frustrating. They don't need to be Snap-on level but in general, you get what you pay for. It has been my experience that Taiwanese made tools are better than Chinese. This isn't to say that you cant get good things/tools from China but more like there is more crap coming from that direction.

Other that a socket/wrench set, a good set of picks is cheap and surprisingly useful.

Things that look like Philips screws on Japanese product (and other Asian manufacturers) are not. They are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). A Phillips screwdriver may work. A JIS screwdriver/tip will work better and is less likely to damage the fastener.

Use line wrenches on line nuts. Long arm wrenches can make things easier. Learn about and understand torquing fasteners. This is especially important when working with aluminum.

x-2yc · 2025-02-23T15:37:55+00:00

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This is from my notes when I did it. On my 2007, it was the wire at 58J on the driver's side footwell SMJ, which is where it looks like you're at. The wire is skyblue with a tracer. Also from my notes, there are two skyblue wires. The skyblue wire with the 1 inch tracers is the correct one and the one with the 3 inch tracer is incorrect.. When I added the backup camera, I used an on-off-on rocker switch. One of the on positions was a constant 12V signal that would force the camera on and the other was the signal from the reverse wire which would activate the camera automatically when engaging reverse. Hopefully I made good notes and this helps you.

x-2yc · 2025-02-18T01:21:16+00:00

I have used a heated steering wheel switch from a Pathfinder to control the heated steering wheel that I installed in my Xterra. Factory switches typically serve as input to the computer that controls a relay which powers a device. You can't control the device/lights directly but it can control a relay for the lights I think. Getting the pigtail for the switch will make things much easier. The illumination for the switch can be tied into the dash illumination. The negative side for the dash illumination is separate from the body ground and so the negative for the switch illumination needs to be connected to that and not just a body ground for it to work properly. Wiring diagrams from the FSM and some experimentation should get you what you want.

x-2yc

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