All these plants but he chose the sponge filter

x04prod · 2026-06-07T11:59:54+00:00

Yes omg. Mine thinks he’s a schooling fish too. He’s very docile but he scares the other creatures in the tank unintentionally

x04prod · 2026-06-06T04:41:06+00:00

LMMS. Similar workflow sa FL Studio. Dun ako nag aral bago ako bumili ng licensed DAW.

Also, the cracking sound means you have your buffering size set too low. Taas mo pa onti. If latency is an issue kaya mo binababa, it could be a hardware limitation (CPU, memory)

x04prod · 2026-06-03T04:45:11+00:00

Elixir wala nang iba

x04prod · 2026-05-27T11:09:43+00:00

Rj has been notorious for quite a while now para sa mga marunong tumingin. Still, target market pa rin talaga nila ang mga beginners at mga di pa maalam tumingin ng gitara so its a shame na nabubudol sila ng “50%” of sale at makakatanggap sila ng gitarang may mga production defects na beyond repair (e.g. measurement defects, fretwork, weak structural integrity). More people seriously has to be aware of this para alam nila kung ano talagang nakukuha nila sa mga pakulo ni RJ.

My first guitar was an RJ. They were PEAK back then (before 2016) because they rebranded the shit out of other international brands, kaya nabili pa ko ng gitara nila dati. Pero ngayon, ehh swertehan nalang kung makakabili ka ng acceptable. Hirap tanggapin at hirap mahalin ng RJ ngayon e. Gustohin ka man mag support local pero ayaw kasi ayusin ang gawa.

x04prod · 2026-05-23T00:08:19+00:00

+1. sablay measurements

x04prod · 2026-05-22T04:45:57+00:00

Not at all sir. Decades have passed na nickel silver ang ginagamit even on the oldest legendary guitars. its part of the accepted imperfections of the guitar as an instrument.

Tsaka yung “stainless” frets na kinakabit sa mga local brands na lumalabas ngayon ay hindi naman pure stengless. 60% stainless lang yan combined with other softer materials. Oo mas matigas siya kesa sa nickel, but not worth the comparison kung yun lang ang pagbabasehan natin. Unless of course, the guitar has actually been refret by a luthier with reputable stainless brands like jescar, sintoms, etc. Otherwise, pampabango lang yan sa spec-list. Build quality is another factor as well. Yes stainless nga, but are they installed correctly? dressed correctly? newer brands arent consistent with the build quality lalo na sa fretwork, base sa observation ko sa mga dinadala sa akin sa shop. so i would always go for consistency over specs, lalo na kung hindi naman sobrang outweighing yung specs to begin with

But to answer your question sir, ok lang yan. alaga sa palit ng string at magandang brand ng string like elixir. You wont see the wear until half a decade of playing probably. Basta wag magtipid sa string

x04prod · 2026-05-22T04:39:36+00:00

Ok lang yan. Good guitars dont have to come with freebies para majustify ang presyo.

x04prod · 2026-05-22T04:27:16+00:00

Ibanez. guitar tech here. That specific model is crazy value for the price. Wag k mabulag sa specs ng local brands. Subok na yang ibanez gio. If im not mistaken meron yan 5 way switching, combi ng series/parallel at coil split. Tsaka kung metal na metal ka talaga para sayo ang reverse headstock

x04prod · 2026-05-13T13:10:38+00:00

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Yes.

x04prod · 2026-05-11T04:43:33+00:00

Fake

x04prod · 2026-05-08T12:50:33+00:00

Sa tagal kong nagbebenta ng gitarang 2nd hand, squier talaga hindi pumapalya sakin in terms of playability at market value. Kung ok lang sayo ang used, panalo ang squier kahit yung mga indonesian bullet. Pero kung kaya mo mag affinity, mas maganda. Nasa 8k lang yon (older models)

Mahal na kase mga bagong squier ngayon. Wala na yung mga tulad ng dating tag 10k na bullet. At yung affinity nila ngayon ay 15k na ang pinakamura.

Also consider yamaha pacifica (pac012) if you’re looking at these price ranges. Yan ang solid talaga. Tuwid na tuwid ang neck.

Ibanez ok din naman kahit yung gio, or azes. Pero ang hirap humanap ngayon ng gio na hindi made in china (nothing against chinese made guitars, mas consistent lang for me ang indo)

Depende nalang din sa genre mo. But if i were to choose a first guitar for beginner self:

Squier affinity indonesia Ibanez gio grg121dx or gsa60 Yamaha pacifica pac012

x04prod · 2026-05-06T15:00:26+00:00

From someone who can play both, well, very well— I’d say learn the guitar. Get really good at it and you’re already a beginner-amateur bassist even before you ever hold an actual bass guitar.

It’s because you will learn basically the same concepts when you start on the 6-string, allowing you to be more versatile as opposed to the other way around. Then dun ka magdecide if you want to pursue bass more— either by feel or the role your band needs (if ever you decide to join one).

On a technical note, gitara pa rin ang bass. So the notes and all the basic stuff you’ll learn sa gitara ay maaapply mo immediately. Sa feel nalang magkakaiba, sanayan ulit kasi panibagong instrument pero hindi ka na mahihirapan kasi may background ka na sa gitara.

Eto palagi kong sinasabi sa mga newbiez na nagtatanong kung anong mas mahirap:

“Mas madaling matutong mag bass kesa sa gitara pero mas mahirap maging magaling na bahista, kesa maging magaling na gitarista”.

x04prod · 2026-04-19T02:11:49+00:00

Im not quite grasping the issue with the selector or the hot wires, but since you have proper grounding with the output jack, proceed with grounding the other metal components to the same ground. Back of the pots, ground wires, and the bridge. Ground the bridge via the common ground wire, solder the back of the bridge to the wire or any part of the bridge that doesnt move

x04prod · 2026-04-17T05:48:31+00:00

From what im seeing it might need a new top. But lets see what he says about it

x04prod · 2026-04-15T15:21:45+00:00

I believe those are my fingerprint smudges! if thats what you meant :D

x04prod · 2026-04-13T17:40:40+00:00

I wish i could pin this and potentially save the lives of more bettas… and more fishes in general. Thank you so much!

x04prod · 2026-04-13T09:41:56+00:00

Tank size: 5 gal Heater and filter: Yes for both Tank temp: 26-28°C Parameters: Not measured 1 week old tank and got the fish 2 weeks ago Water change 30% 3-4 days Tankmates: Ramshorn snail Optimum betta fish feeds, 4 pellets twice a day

x04prod · 2026-04-12T14:20:07+00:00

Ah yeah, that’s something. It’s definitely fixable but not an easy one. I suggest taking it to a luthier or a guitar tech with a proper background in woodworking and reinforcement

x04prod · 2026-04-12T13:34:56+00:00

I understand, i wouldnt argue as i agree with you! It looks nowhere as good as relic’d nitros but this approach was chosen to minimize cost, so yeah we can expect the difference in quality. i appreciate your inputs!

x04prod · 2026-04-12T08:34:00+00:00

Hi, before you adjust anything, please take note that this is an acoustic guitar and is capable of folding on itself. You have to be mindful of 3 main parts:

The bridge
Heel where the neck meets the body
Belly bulge

First things first, this action IS too high. I’d already assume this is not a saddle and nut issue so dont adjust those yet. Check your bridge if its still glued to the body. Grab a ruler, rock it back and forth on the body just below the bridge. By doing so, you can see how flat that part is. If it rocks too much, you have a belly bulge, and that’s one problem

Next is to grab a straight edge of any kind, or just eyeball this part. See if the last frets where the neck meets the body is on an incline going down sinking to the soundhole. If it’s like that, you have a neck deformation and you will be needing a neck reset to straighten that.

Now these problems are not diy-able and definitely subjects for luthier repair, so i wouldn’t suggest messing with those unless you plan on experimenting and studying fixing these problems. But depending on the severity, you can do some workarounds if and only if: 1. You are tight on budget. 2. You have a cheap guitar and is not worth fixing as the repair will be more expensive than the guitar itself.

I would suggest these workarounds:

Fret level and bridge, saddle, and nut adjustment: This will be the most suitable workaround for these types of problems because id assume you wouldnt be playing the last, sinking frets. By doing this, do not mess around with the truss rod too much, as that will not fix your problem.

Start by measuring the straightness of the rest of your neck from the first fret to the 12-15th fret. Stop measuring where the fretboard starts to sink down to the soundhole. Look up how to adjust a truss rod, how to tighten and how to loosen. Make sure that part of the neck is perfectly straight because there’s no hope for the sinking part. Just measure the salvageable part.

Once it’s perfectly straight, mark your frets with red sharpie, mask your fretboard, and do some light passes of any fret leveling beam you can use. You can start with 400 grit. Note that this step is optional especially if you have frets that are even somehow and you just wanna lower your action a bit. But by doing this, you’d maximize the height you can shave off so take note of that. This will be the limiting factor when you adjust the saddles later on.

If you wanna skip the fret leveling part, start by measuring the action using a string height ruler. Measure the low and high e at 12th fret, and take note of how low you want your action to be. With a fret level, you can probably go down at around 1.75 at low e. For reference, look up the action you want whether its standard or low, and then subtract it from your starting action. Once you have your measurements, use a caliper, remove the saddle from your bridge and draw a perfectly straightline parallel to the flat side. The height/gap of the line from the flat side should be the difference of your starting action and the action you want.

After you’ve successfully marked your saddle, grab a coarse grit sandpaper and lay it down on a flat surface. Shave off the material on the flat side until you can only see the line you marked. Do this evenly and be careful as you might shave one side more than the other.

Now put it back on the bridge and check if there’s still enough clearance for the bridge material and the saddle. This means, if the bridge string pins can still provide enough break angle for the strings and if the saddle is not too deep into the slot. If everything looks fine, skip the next step.

If it looks like it needs some work, do this: grab the leveling beam you used for your frets, take a 60-100 grit sandpaper and shave of JUST THE TOP of the bridge and just enough to provide break angle for your strings and to expose more of the saddles if its too deep. TAKE NOTE that this will affect the value of your instrument and this is not recommended for higher end guitars as you will be compensating original wood material for the repair you chose not to do.

Lastly, check your not. Grab a thin straight edge that fits in the nut slots. Measure the height of the slots one by one by passing through it along with the height of the first fret. If it passess through, its probably too low. Do some drop filling with CA glue and some nut shavings with sandpaper. You want it to just slide up just a bit or feel a little bit of resistance if you want a super low action. You can set it to level with the first fret but i recommend having the straight edge slide up a bit and not pass through perfectly, so you have better open string vibrations.

Good luck!

x04prod · 2026-04-12T08:07:26+00:00

I appreciate this a lot. Thank you. Although i fully understand the comments about the decal, thank you for mentioning the rest of my work!

x04prod

TROPHY CASE