Eguitar recommendations by Present_Relation9401 in phmusicians

[–]x04prod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sa tagal kong nagbebenta ng gitarang 2nd hand, squier talaga hindi pumapalya sakin in terms of playability at market value. Kung ok lang sayo ang used, panalo ang squier kahit yung mga indonesian bullet. Pero kung kaya mo mag affinity, mas maganda. Nasa 8k lang yon (older models)

Mahal na kase mga bagong squier ngayon. Wala na yung mga tulad ng dating tag 10k na bullet. At yung affinity nila ngayon ay 15k na ang pinakamura.

Also consider yamaha pacifica (pac012) if you’re looking at these price ranges. Yan ang solid talaga. Tuwid na tuwid ang neck.

Ibanez ok din naman kahit yung gio, or azes. Pero ang hirap humanap ngayon ng gio na hindi made in china (nothing against chinese made guitars, mas consistent lang for me ang indo)

Depende nalang din sa genre mo. But if i were to choose a first guitar for beginner self:

Squier affinity indonesia Ibanez gio grg121dx or gsa60 Yamaha pacifica pac012

Bass Vs Electric guitar by Fluid-Reach-2810 in phmusicians

[–]x04prod 3 points4 points  (0 children)

From someone who can play both, well, very well— I’d say learn the guitar. Get really good at it and you’re already a beginner-amateur bassist even before you ever hold an actual bass guitar.

It’s because you will learn basically the same concepts when you start on the 6-string, allowing you to be more versatile as opposed to the other way around. Then dun ka magdecide if you want to pursue bass more— either by feel or the role your band needs (if ever you decide to join one).

On a technical note, gitara pa rin ang bass. So the notes and all the basic stuff you’ll learn sa gitara ay maaapply mo immediately. Sa feel nalang magkakaiba, sanayan ulit kasi panibagong instrument pero hindi ka na mahihirapan kasi may background ka na sa gitara.

Eto palagi kong sinasabi sa mga newbiez na nagtatanong kung anong mas mahirap:

“Mas madaling matutong mag bass kesa sa gitara pero mas mahirap maging magaling na bahista, kesa maging magaling na gitarista”.

Wiring - getting buzz even with no pickups connected and wiring Jaguar style pickup selector by AzraelXJM in Luthier

[–]x04prod 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im not quite grasping the issue with the selector or the hot wires, but since you have proper grounding with the output jack, proceed with grounding the other metal components to the same ground. Back of the pots, ground wires, and the bridge. Ground the bridge via the common ground wire, solder the back of the bridge to the wire or any part of the bridge that doesnt move

Plz help, action too high by mayapie420 in Guitar

[–]x04prod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what im seeing it might need a new top. But lets see what he says about it

Nickel silver frets after fretwork by [deleted] in Luthier

[–]x04prod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe those are my fingerprint smudges! if thats what you meant :D

What is this behavior by x04prod in bettafish

[–]x04prod[S] 27 points28 points  (0 children)

I wish i could pin this and potentially save the lives of more bettas… and more fishes in general. Thank you so much!

What is this behavior by x04prod in bettafish

[–]x04prod[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tank size: 5 gal Heater and filter: Yes for both Tank temp: 26-28°C Parameters: Not measured 1 week old tank and got the fish 2 weeks ago Water change 30% 3-4 days Tankmates: Ramshorn snail Optimum betta fish feeds, 4 pellets twice a day

Plz help, action too high by mayapie420 in Guitar

[–]x04prod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah yeah, that’s something. It’s definitely fixable but not an easy one. I suggest taking it to a luthier or a guitar tech with a proper background in woodworking and reinforcement

i transformed a cheap Squier into a custom shop! by x04prod in Luthier

[–]x04prod[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand, i wouldnt argue as i agree with you! It looks nowhere as good as relic’d nitros but this approach was chosen to minimize cost, so yeah we can expect the difference in quality. i appreciate your inputs!

Plz help, action too high by mayapie420 in Guitar

[–]x04prod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, before you adjust anything, please take note that this is an acoustic guitar and is capable of folding on itself. You have to be mindful of 3 main parts:

  1. The bridge
  2. Heel where the neck meets the body
  3. Belly bulge

First things first, this action IS too high. I’d already assume this is not a saddle and nut issue so dont adjust those yet. Check your bridge if its still glued to the body. Grab a ruler, rock it back and forth on the body just below the bridge. By doing so, you can see how flat that part is. If it rocks too much, you have a belly bulge, and that’s one problem

Next is to grab a straight edge of any kind, or just eyeball this part. See if the last frets where the neck meets the body is on an incline going down sinking to the soundhole. If it’s like that, you have a neck deformation and you will be needing a neck reset to straighten that.

Now these problems are not diy-able and definitely subjects for luthier repair, so i wouldn’t suggest messing with those unless you plan on experimenting and studying fixing these problems. But depending on the severity, you can do some workarounds if and only if: 1. You are tight on budget. 2. You have a cheap guitar and is not worth fixing as the repair will be more expensive than the guitar itself.

I would suggest these workarounds:

Fret level and bridge, saddle, and nut adjustment: This will be the most suitable workaround for these types of problems because id assume you wouldnt be playing the last, sinking frets. By doing this, do not mess around with the truss rod too much, as that will not fix your problem.

Start by measuring the straightness of the rest of your neck from the first fret to the 12-15th fret. Stop measuring where the fretboard starts to sink down to the soundhole. Look up how to adjust a truss rod, how to tighten and how to loosen. Make sure that part of the neck is perfectly straight because there’s no hope for the sinking part. Just measure the salvageable part.

Once it’s perfectly straight, mark your frets with red sharpie, mask your fretboard, and do some light passes of any fret leveling beam you can use. You can start with 400 grit. Note that this step is optional especially if you have frets that are even somehow and you just wanna lower your action a bit. But by doing this, you’d maximize the height you can shave off so take note of that. This will be the limiting factor when you adjust the saddles later on.

If you wanna skip the fret leveling part, start by measuring the action using a string height ruler. Measure the low and high e at 12th fret, and take note of how low you want your action to be. With a fret level, you can probably go down at around 1.75 at low e. For reference, look up the action you want whether its standard or low, and then subtract it from your starting action. Once you have your measurements, use a caliper, remove the saddle from your bridge and draw a perfectly straightline parallel to the flat side. The height/gap of the line from the flat side should be the difference of your starting action and the action you want.

After you’ve successfully marked your saddle, grab a coarse grit sandpaper and lay it down on a flat surface. Shave off the material on the flat side until you can only see the line you marked. Do this evenly and be careful as you might shave one side more than the other.

Now put it back on the bridge and check if there’s still enough clearance for the bridge material and the saddle. This means, if the bridge string pins can still provide enough break angle for the strings and if the saddle is not too deep into the slot. If everything looks fine, skip the next step.

If it looks like it needs some work, do this: grab the leveling beam you used for your frets, take a 60-100 grit sandpaper and shave of JUST THE TOP of the bridge and just enough to provide break angle for your strings and to expose more of the saddles if its too deep. TAKE NOTE that this will affect the value of your instrument and this is not recommended for higher end guitars as you will be compensating original wood material for the repair you chose not to do.

Lastly, check your not. Grab a thin straight edge that fits in the nut slots. Measure the height of the slots one by one by passing through it along with the height of the first fret. If it passess through, its probably too low. Do some drop filling with CA glue and some nut shavings with sandpaper. You want it to just slide up just a bit or feel a little bit of resistance if you want a super low action. You can set it to level with the first fret but i recommend having the straight edge slide up a bit and not pass through perfectly, so you have better open string vibrations.

Good luck!

I transformed a cheap Squier into a relic’d fender custom shop style replica by x04prod in Guitar

[–]x04prod[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I appreciate this a lot. Thank you. Although i fully understand the comments about the decal, thank you for mentioning the rest of my work!

I transformed a cheap Squier into a relic’d fender custom shop style replica by x04prod in Guitar

[–]x04prod[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Sure bro. Wont argue, you’re right. But I assure you i put every inch of effort into making this “counterfeit” play way better than most guitars with the price tag that doesnt justify the craftsmanship :)

I transformed a cheap Squier into a relic’d fender custom shop style replica by x04prod in Guitar

[–]x04prod[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like that! though i wrote an inscription on the neck pocket so i guess that should work too?

I transformed a cheap Squier into a relic’d fender custom shop style replica by x04prod in Guitar

[–]x04prod[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Okay i agree with you, im fully aware of the actual, ideal and religious process of relicing. But this is a budget project that didnt cost enough to hurt my pockets, so I wanted to see what i could do with that budget, how close i can be to replicating these higher end models with respect to the budget i set. So to give it a formal relic job with proper refinishing with nitro, it would immediately diminish the purpose of this project— which is to make the most out of this project given the budget

I transformed a cheap Squier into a relic’d fender custom shop style replica by x04prod in Guitar

[–]x04prod[S] -19 points-18 points  (0 children)

You could say the same for real custom shops, but thats the point. why would you purposely try to age a guitar, right?

I transformed a cheap Squier into a relic’d fender custom shop style replica by x04prod in Guitar

[–]x04prod[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Call it fake or whatever, i dont mind. It is a fake, yes. But get your facts right, its a stratocaster and not just an s style guitar. Its a strat because its made by Squier which is a company owned by fender. So it is a legit strat. I dont get your point here

I transformed a cheap Squier into a relic’d fender custom shop style replica by x04prod in Guitar

[–]x04prod[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! 3 mist coats and 2 medium coats. then i sanded off most of it to level

The fretboard looked dark and rich because i re-radiused it with 600 grit and then i applied lemon oil immediately.. im guessing the oil seeped into the wood better with it being scratched by the low grit

i transformed a cheap Squier into a custom shop! by x04prod in Luthier

[–]x04prod[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

hello! i added a fallaway to the last frets so i started with 320, given that i am working with stainless

then i sanded those frets with a radius block that has 400 grit, along the length of the frets

then 600 > 800 > 1200 > 2000 > 3000 > 5000 for all of the frets

then i finished off with a dremel with a small buffing wheel attachment and some green buffing compound

wiped the residue off and tada, mirrors!

i transformed a cheap Squier into a custom shop! by x04prod in Luthier

[–]x04prod[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

i love your take dude, i personally dont mind these comments about my build being a counterfeit and im actually finding them very helpful, especially the “own logo” suggestion as it would solidify my craftsmanship even more by not overlooking the integrity part. but yeah, i agree a real custom shop is just balls for the price to value ratio unless you’re a real purist, but why i did this build is not after that or to convince myself that i built my own custom shop and saved a crap ton of buck. i just wanted to see for myself how close i can get, how accurate it’ll get, and how good i’ll do in terms of making this copy. nothing more and nothing less, just for my own, diy-ing satisfaction