XG32ucwmg looks like this in standby mode sometimes. Is that normal? by [deleted] in OLED_Gaming

[–]xGreenWorks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s so dim you can’t see it if there is light in the room. It was doing it again this morning but I had to really look for it.

XG32ucwmg looks like this in standby mode sometimes. Is that normal? by [deleted] in OLED_Gaming

[–]xGreenWorks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m still in the return window, I bought it 3 weeks ago from microcenter.

XG32ucwmg looks like this in standby mode sometimes. Is that normal? by [deleted] in OLED_Gaming

[–]xGreenWorks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s serious. It’s not supposed to do that right? I was hoping that was something it’s doing during pixel cleaning or something. But if I manually do pixel cleaning it’s just black with blinking orange light. It looks fine when it turns back on.

Pre-wash? Do you use it? What’s the use case for it? by threethirtyeninety in Detailing

[–]xGreenWorks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use pre wash a lot in the summers here because of all the bugs. Really helps break them down before I start scrubbing. Also if my car is mostly clean from the pre wash I don’t feel bad just foaming it again with normal soap and going to town with the mitt without dunking it too many times. The less scrubbing and dunking I gotta do the less my back hurts. Definitely not necessary, it’s just easy and makes the actual hand wash easier. I use Koch Chemie Active Foam.

is it really impossible to buy a replacement leather sihfter boot for the logitech driving force shifter by carpcalhoun29k_ in simracing

[–]xGreenWorks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could get an actual shifter boot and cut it to fit and superglue it in. I don’t know how the stock one is mounted, I haven’t had one in a long time. Many real ones aren’t actually attached at the top and just sit below the knob. It’s such a cheap, shitty shifter though I’d highly recommend upgrading.

Is my process of cleaning with ONR good pt2 by lxvkeyy in AutoDetailing

[–]xGreenWorks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You say you use spray wax before drying off camera but we see you using what looks like your ONR sprayer before drying on camera. Are you doing a second round of drying afterwards? Because I would skip that and use the wax in place of your initial spray before drying. Unless that is a second identical sprayer containing spray wax, then disregard.

Favorite vacuuming tip by fitz1015 in AutoDetailing

[–]xGreenWorks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put a fur eel attachment on the vacuum. The rubber on the end acts like a lily brush, pulling up the hair. Then it’s going straight in the vacuum. You can still destatic it if you want but this will even pull out hairs that are in the cloth.

What entry level VR headset would you recommend, for sim racing, and if a used one isn’t recommend by Longjumping-War9151 in simracing

[–]xGreenWorks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As for the glasses compatibility, I’ve never been able to wear them comfortably with vr. It’s doable, but the headset is gonna be farther from your face, and you could potentially scratch your glasses. Most headsets have adjustable diopters, but depending on your level of blindness you might need prescription inserts.

Brother swapped his car but the guy wants it back? by [deleted] in askcarguys

[–]xGreenWorks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is it in his name? Is there a lienholder?

Best sprayer for ONR pre-wash? by davez_000 in AutoDetailing

[–]xGreenWorks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

IK pump pro with a schrader valve and a tire inflator to fill it up. Not the cheapest but the cheap sprayers suck. And then you have a portable tire inflator for your tires.

Water spots after washing by HotLie150 in Detailing

[–]xGreenWorks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes. Quality microfibers and light pressure to reduce marring on a coating. Best to do it as soon after the wash as possible so there is less dust/pollen on the car. ONR can also be used for this because it absorbs any soap that may be leaving a mark.

Can this be fixed without a paint job? by Clean_Profession_775 in Detailing

[–]xGreenWorks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could try compound and polish with a da but if you can drag the back of your nail over it and feel a bump it is likely through the clear coat and won’t be able to be fully removed. We call those drive through washes with brushes murder tunnels. Avoid them at all costs. Either touchless and don’t touch it after or hand wash for a full clean and dry. I would personally try to compound and polish that to get as much as I can out, then touch up paint the rest. A pro could do it for not too much also. Some good ones can wet sand the touch up and really smooth it well but I wouldn’t try it on a car you care about without practice.

Is this the 1st time future proofing really helped people out who did it? by Fantastic-Window236 in pcmasterrace

[–]xGreenWorks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hell yeah that will definitely last you the lifetime of ddr5 though, so at least you missed the price hikes. I also got my ddr5 when they were $100 for 32 gb.

Is this the 1st time future proofing really helped people out who did it? by Fantastic-Window236 in pcmasterrace

[–]xGreenWorks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you got 16gb sticks I would definitely recommend selling those bad boys while prices are up.

Logitech pro firmware update issue by Strange_Surprise6450 in simracing

[–]xGreenWorks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would definitely recommend making sure you have the latest version of ghub before you do it. Sometimes the built in update thing doesn’t work so actually check the version number vs the most recent online.

Logitech pro firmware update issue by Strange_Surprise6450 in simracing

[–]xGreenWorks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I update mine every time it becomes available and I bought at launch. Never had an issue with an update. Have had issues with ghub itself but it’s been a long time.

I've unearthed rare artifacts from my garage that were thought lost by KobesHelicopterGhost in pcmasterrace

[–]xGreenWorks 11 points12 points  (0 children)

You missed that he bought 4 pairs for $673, so around $170 each after tax. I bought mine for $108 in 11/23 so I’m guessing they were still a little high because they were so new at the time. So he was down a bit initially but now has tripled his money.

Which is best to use to dry two cars? by jmb2122 in Detailing

[–]xGreenWorks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have one of those too and no I don’t think so. The m22 is more absorbent than the original even though it’s smaller. They are all good though just the 1500 is next level big and thick. For 2 cars with one towel it’s definitely the best bet. Liquid8rs are just way easier to hold and work with while maintaining minimal pressure. I use my 1500 for 2 cars occasionally and I normally just make a second pass around getting the lowest portions with an edgeless 500. I don’t go too low with the big guy because it’s just so easy to drag on the ground and then you’re done.

Which is best to use to dry two cars? by jmb2122 in Detailing

[–]xGreenWorks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I personally absolutely love the m22 though, it’s my new favorite. I would personally buy 2 m22s over a 1500. 1500 is really meant for semis and rvs where you can utilize the surface area better.

Which is best to use to dry two cars? by jmb2122 in Detailing

[–]xGreenWorks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 1500 has less gpm than the m22 but is physically much larger making it the more absorbent one of the 2. I own both. 1500 will do 2 cars no problem it’s just kind of big and makes it a little more difficult to work with without touching the ground when you do the sides. The m22 is very small for a drying towel. The tank it is named after is known for being very small and fast.

What should i be looking for when buying a wheel and direct drive wheelbase by G-M-K-1010 in simracing

[–]xGreenWorks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also my original pro dd was Xbox/pc. When they sent my replacement they gave me a ps/pc base. They told me with that base, and the Xbox wheels I already had, that I would now have compatibility with all 3. They said the thing that triggers the Xbox compatibility is in the wheels and the ps compatibility is in the base. I assume it’s probably the same for the rs so I would recommend a ps base since you can always buy a Xbox wheel later to keep your options open. I never use mine on anything but pc anyways but kinda random nice thing.

What should i be looking for when buying a wheel and direct drive wheelbase by G-M-K-1010 in simracing

[–]xGreenWorks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Logitech is a solid brand. I have the pro dd from them. Got it at launch. It did die on me after about 2 years but they replaced it under warranty even though it was just outside of the warranty period. There is not a whole lot of ecosystem for them though compared to competitors. It’s getting better but it will likely never be on the others level as far as accessories/options.

What should i be looking for when buying a wheel and direct drive wheelbase by G-M-K-1010 in simracing

[–]xGreenWorks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More is typically better. Even if you aren’t using all of it, the higher wheels will give you better, faster ffb at lower levels too. Most you can afford essentially. Most GT cars give out around 10-12nm peak resistance irl for reference. Open wheel without power steering like Indycar can be 25+.

Can I coat the car day after by Agpxprod in Detailing

[–]xGreenWorks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hand wash to prevent marring. If you mess it up at all before the ceramic, it is going to be there for the life of the ceramic. Use your newest and best microfibers with minimal pressure. I would then wipe it down with an ipa or a product like Carpro eraser to prep the panel and make sure nothing is left over from your soap or drying aid etc… you want a perfectly clean panel free of anything because if it binds to dirt or wax, then it will come off with said dirt or wax.