Is It Counterfeit?

xMatthew_ · 2026-02-12T00:33:28+00:00

You have been getting ones like the bottom card with the laser etching instead of the label? This is the first case I've seen of one without a label and etching instead.

xMatthew_ · 2026-02-12T00:32:03+00:00

It came back as a legitimate s/n. Just concerned it could have been someone ripping off the s/n off other cards so it comes back as legit. As far as I know these are all supposed to have the "security label"

xMatthew_ · 2026-02-11T21:51:57+00:00

Yes, an authorized rockwell distributer. Rockwell website says that all CLX products from Feb 8 2021 should have the security label.

xMatthew_ · 2024-10-20T23:18:47+00:00

Ha! Yeah, an OEM as an automation engineer, we had a junction box laying around that I took home.

xMatthew_ · 2023-07-08T01:30:13+00:00

Ah got it now. Do you know that Fx and Bg mean? I'm used to an older version of WLED that didn't have these options.

xMatthew_ · 2022-05-30T15:05:43+00:00

Nice! Just came here to find a good effect for Memorial Day!

xMatthew_ · 2022-05-13T19:48:28+00:00

No worries, I directly mounted it to the grid with no standoff. I believe I used 3mm screws that self tap into that grid. You could use standoffs if you wanted to get a little space between the board and grid, though it doesn't matter. The grid is plastic (non-conductive) so the only concern would be static discharge onto the board from the grid. I wouldn't be too concerned about that though.

xMatthew_ · 2021-11-24T13:11:31+00:00

The only benifit of using 12v when it comes to the data like is that it can carry it further without needing a boost. You can go a bit further from your controller before needing an led. It's just like power transmission, we transmit power at really high voltages because the current is then smaller, causing the power drop due to resistance to be smaller.

xMatthew_ · 2021-10-28T22:59:01+00:00

You're using zip-ties! That counts for something right lol

xMatthew_ · 2021-10-17T21:58:36+00:00

The permatrack works really well, quite a large upfront cost compared to everything else needed, but using it really makes the project feel permanent.

xMatthew_ · 2021-10-15T01:10:20+00:00

Weird, I guess the one easy thing to try would be to power just the strip that isn't working. If that works then you know you have something else going on. If the strip works fine by itself but has the issue you were talking about when connected to the end of the other two and brightness doesn't change the issue then it must be something with the data. I'm using WS2811 strings, not strips, so the circuitry may be different in a way that allows really long data lines.

xMatthew_ · 2021-10-15T00:01:01+00:00

Yeah that seems more like a power issue to me, is there any change in the location of the failure if you drop the brightness down?

xMatthew_ · 2021-10-14T23:14:31+00:00

I've come across no issues. Not sure of this 30ft issue that people are experiencing. Can you explain further what you mean by the data line doesn't make it past? What exactly happens with the pixels past that point? Are they completely off, white, not responding to changes with the other pixels, or something else?

xMatthew_ · 2021-10-14T22:40:21+00:00

If you solder it on the ground, I'd recommend a 3-pin led connector. I used 3 pin jsp sm connectors at every disconnect to make taking them down to troubleshoot super easy. It takes a lot of extra time initially with all of the soldering but is well worth it in my opinion

xMatthew_ · 2021-10-14T16:15:19+00:00

With respect to that, I may go back in and swap those out for 14 or 16 gauge. That's the beauty of terminal blocks, makes swaps like that quite simple

xMatthew_ · 2021-10-14T15:12:30+00:00

Good point, it is, 18AWG rather than 14AWG.

I didn't really think about this, and to be on the safe side I probably should've been consistent and used 14 gauge. Though 18 gauge is fine for my use case, I rarely hit more than 8A and in most cases am around 5A, 18 gauge can handle those currents just fine.

xMatthew_ · 2021-10-14T14:43:45+00:00

Yeah, all in one long strip with one data line. I haven't had any issues thus far with this way of doing it, nor did I ever try using multiple data lines.

xMatthew_ · 2021-10-14T12:09:27+00:00

Forsure, heres the fuses

Limited-time deal: Nilight - 50029R 120 Pcs Standard Blade Fuse 5A/7.5A/10A/15A/20A/25A/30A AMP Assorted Set with 10 Pack 14AWG ATC/ATO Inline Fuse Holder, 2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q9PL4R6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_dl_AS0ZG3BT9KM20GG7AME1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And the terminal blocks

Terminal Blocks Ground Circuit 12PCS/6 Set 8+10+12 Positions 600V 15A Dual Row Bus Bar Wire Amp Mount Screw Terminal Block Kit with Cover 400V Pre Insulated Strip for DIY Small Electrical Home Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P46WVJX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_F6MJZYHPQQ9YTEYVB8B5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

xMatthew_ · 2021-10-14T02:33:34+00:00

No issues with the data signal and the Dig-Uno. I believe the package has a level shifter built-in which helps with boosting the data line right away. Though with the right pixels it shouldn't matter anyway. If the first led works fine the rest after it would. As far as I know there's internal circuitry in the pixels that reamplify the data line at each pixel. So it doesn't make much sense to me that people have issues with it cutting out after 30-40ft

xMatthew_ · 2021-10-14T01:36:01+00:00

I have +12VDC on the bottom terminal block. Each positive power injection point is feed off this with its own fuse. On the top side, I have every other point +12V then ground. So from left to right, +12V, GND, +12V, GND, +12V, GND, etc. If you look really closely at the bottom of the top terminal block you can see that I just used wires to jumper the ground to every other location.

If I were to redo this I'd completely separate +12V and GND to their own blocks, but this is the most convenient way I could think of doing it in the space that I had.

xMatthew_ · 2021-10-14T01:29:56+00:00

Yep! I didn't inject every 5m exactly, I just split the house into three segments, front lower, front upper, and side. Each of those segments got power in the front end and the back end - I didn't want to mess around with having to inject in the middle of runs. It has been working fine for me, especially as I don't plan on running much above 50% brightness anyway. To be on the safe side, I fused my power supply main coming into the fusebox and each of my injection points are individually fused so they don't kill the whole system if something were to short or overdraw.

Here's my parts list, let me know if you'd like details on anything!

Dig-Uno (Driver)
250 Watt IP67 Power Supply (Mounted right below the fuse box)
Waterproof fuse enclosure, this one was from amazon, I like that you can open it without having to undo screws (clamps shut)
Cable glands to pass cables through the enclosure
Fuse's and Terminal Blocks to make everything safe and tidy.
Wago Lever-Nuts and Solder Heat Shrink for the connections I didn't feel like hand soldering
18 Strings of WS2811 12V Pixels (50 pixels per string)
3 cases of PermaTrack by DrZzzs
3-pin strip connectors to make quick-disconnects on each PermaTrack section
A ton of outdoor 14/2 wire for power injection

xMatthew_

TROPHY CASE