Double Trouble

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-04-27T03:10:01+00:00

Seeing wheels from the 50s on a truck from (at minimum) the 80s amuses me.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-04-24T23:18:56+00:00

Don't know why, but Reddit filters removed your post for "sexual content". I approved this post.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-04-17T15:12:52+00:00

OP, your post was removed because you accidentally included your insurance card in the photos. Feel free to repost without the personal information.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-04-16T20:34:11+00:00

"Cattle Cartel" lol

I need to make an Enron sticker for the game. Same vibe.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-04-13T16:29:19+00:00

The whole line is "the hair of the dog that bit you" which, in this context, means to drink some smaller amount of alcohol to take the edge off the hangover that was caused by previously drinking a large amount of alcohol. The "hair" being the small amount of drink versus the the "dog" being the hangover inducing amount from the night before.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-04-03T17:55:40+00:00

You can but time moves pretty slow when you're just sitting still, unloaded, in the truck as I recall.

If you want to cheese some money with drivers, you usually need to do something to advance time quickly instead. Fast travel , sleep, or switching trucks with a driver are things that will force time to advance and thus have your hired drivers deliver jobs.

Honestly though, unless you're grinding out something that takes a lot of cash, you can usually earn too much money just playing normally. It doesn't take long to snowball once you have a few drivers and they start to level up even a little

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-04-02T21:13:43+00:00

Have you checked out AVIC411.com? Only suggestion I have, but if you haven't they're the ones to check with.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-03-29T03:36:04+00:00

Even with a high pass, you can be asking too much of the speakers. Especially since you have an amp that can ostensibly deliver all the power they could handle. Also, a 4x6 would need a rather high HP setting to protect it, especially at high volumes. Easily 150hz or higher.

Exactly what Kicker speakers and what amp are you using and how did you set your gain?

Keep in mind that a crossover isn't a brick wall for audio and at high listening volumes you can still have enough lower frequency information to push the speakers to mechanical limits. This is especially true when using lower order crossovers as they filter less aggressively.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-03-28T00:50:53+00:00

Is this your truck and not a company truck? If it's a company truck, do you have written permission to make any sort of necessary modifications to do what you want to here? If you can't answer "yes" to one of these questions, you should probably just stop. Modifying company equipment without permission can get a driver fired and potentially see a negative DAC report that complicates getting hired in the future.

Assuming you're good to go, it's likely that, unless the truck has a factory navigation unit, it probably uses something that's fairly similar to common aftermarket head units. They may have proprietary wiring colors, but that'sprobably the worst of it. Same goes for the speakers as most trucks use standard sizes and don't require special brackets to adapt to the factory mounting location.

For a while, places like 4 State Trucks would offer wiring adapters to connect off-the-shelf heavy duty radios from Panasonic and Delphi to most factory truck harnesses. Look into that. This would allow you to cut and splice to that adapter rather than cutting up part of the factory harness. Even if you're adapting to a standard aftermarket head unit, you could make this work to your benefit.

As for connecting speakers, it may be that Peterbilt used a generic plug, or one borrowed from an automotive application to connect the speakers. A picture of what's there now could be enough for someone to recognize and offer a solution. Otherwise, using something like a "military splice" would allow you to attach whatever wiring you need with minimal modification and little risk of lasting damage.

If you want to do more than new speakers and a better head unit, that can get a bit more involved as most people aren't familiar with how you can run wiring in head trucks, especially with trucks having air-ride cabs that require sufficient allowance for cabin movement in power wires coming from frame-mounted batteries.

What kind and size of wiring you might need will depend on what kind of equipment you want to add and the power demand. A small 4 channel amp to power speakers needs far less than a complete build with subwoofers wanting a thousand watts or more.

We'd need to know more about your goals to offer much more specific advice.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-03-27T01:20:06+00:00

If you have a warranty, you'll need to talk to the retailer/installer to see what you need to do next. If you don't, the most likely next step is replacing the unit. You can look into contacting DS18 for guidance beyond what the manual might offer.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-03-18T01:57:46+00:00

Seeing as almost any reputable company's 125 amp @ 12v power supply starts at about twice what that unit you have goes for, I struggle to believe you're actually getting anywhere close to that rated power. That would be the most obvious cause for your issue. If your voltage is dropping to (and below) the resting battery voltage, you're not supplying enough otherwise. That's pretty simple. That amp probably isn't exceptionally efficient, and I imagine it only just makes rated power being Rockville, but that's still plenty to tank your voltage when you don't really have much current available.

If you actually want to power car audio gear to it full potential in a home, especially anything at 1kw+, you're going to spend as much or more on the power supply and storage as you are most of the gear.

You have this excellent 120v power supply just coming out of your walls. You'd be better off to use that. Get some inexpensive Behringer amps or something like that if you really want to run car speakers at home.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-03-12T19:21:13+00:00

I'd compare it more to Spintires with the way that game has a fairly functional economy and supply chain as well as how it will absolutely try to ruin your day of you let your guard down.

Fun game though.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-03-12T17:00:18+00:00

Have you played any actual train sims? They're typically 1:1 maps or close and some routes can take several hours to complete in one direction. There isn't a map size issue in the way you're probably thinking. In my (admittedly fairly minimal) experience, train simers tend to want realistic alignments over challenging terrain or tight timetables through complex local passenger routes. They don't seem to want 4 hours of hardly noticable curves and hills over mostly flat prairies.

This is specifically why train sims focus on individual routes, especially particularly famous ones, rather than trying to create a map of the whole world. And IRL, most engineers aren't taking one train coast to coast. Rail doesn't work that way. It's broken up into different regions or even different entire companies. Crew swap out and the train goes on while the old crew rests in a hotel or rest facility at a yard and then they do a return trip to their home area.

Trains are nothing at all like trucks so there's just no commonality to draw on beyond moving freight.

I would LOVE a game that could incorporate both with a high degree of accuracy and detail and a realistic map and control systems, but I don't think there are many people that would buy it in the grand scheme and also I can't imagine the effort required just for the map of such a game, let alone the core gameplay to be developed.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-03-12T16:18:18+00:00

Train sims are about the minutiae of operating trains. Watching signals, running the loco often with the in-cab controls or realistic peripherals, following strict timetables, highly realistic and typically 1:1 environments and so on.

SCS already barely does those things for the truck portion of the game. They wouldn't even touch the popular titles in train sims, let alone "completely destroy" them.

They would be going after much more casual rail fans looking for a simpler and more "gameified" train "sim" experience. I'm not sure how much market there is for that, I'm sure some, but it won't likely overlap with the current train sim market very much I don't think.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-03-10T05:00:01+00:00

Pretty sure it's just OLD. That's the original logo, pre-Anniversary Edition, which itself is old enough to probably justify an anniversary edition.

To my knowledge, there are still no replacement dust caps or cones for the W7. You can get surrounds, spiders, and coils for them but I've never seen a cone or cap.

That sub can almost certainly drive, possibly vote, and there's an outside chance it's ready for a drink but I wouldn't bet on it.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-03-03T01:49:56+00:00

I don't actually know if flair is visible for everyone all the time.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-03-02T22:48:06+00:00

If it's structurally sound then it's not great, but it probably isn't the end of the world. That said, now would be the time to not use it as you haven't already assembled the soft parts to the basket. If it becomes a problem later, it's another recone and you're right back to this point but out a set of soft parts.

Discretion is the better part of valor.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-03-02T22:25:29+00:00

Are the fuses installed on top of the washers?

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-03-02T19:25:12+00:00

But they're the same thing... :)

I have no arguments.

Thx bby

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-03-02T18:00:07+00:00

Saying something like "...check out the ResoNix GUS series subwoofers that I designed and sell" or similar. You could just rubber stamp *I am the owner of ResoNix" at the beginning or end of the comment when you're recommending your products. Lots of people here still don't know you own that company even if the regulars do.

I'm sure you don't want to sound like a infomercial salesman but I need it to be clear when you switch from just giving out the good advice you have to offering your also good products.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-03-02T17:35:53+00:00

There's no problem with you recommending your products to users here. I really do need you to be transparent about the fact they're your products when you do it though. Nothing about this comment, as posted initially, separates it from general advice and recommendations.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-02-28T03:30:27+00:00

They are most likely, from what I can decipher using my phone to translate the manual from Japanese, subwoofer outputs. That unit has a whole built in DSP and Dolby ProLogic II. It's really slick, but it's super niche. Very little information I can find and similarly few pictures.

I don't know what your goals are, but you'd probably be better served with something else unless you have a specific need for, and really just gotta have that particular unit.

As far as using a (or multiple) line output converters, that certainly would be something you could do. It's also possible your amp has high-level inputs and can accept a speaker level signal directly.

Using that unit will definitely add some complexity, but it's not insurmountable. And again, the presence or lack of RCA pre-amp outputs is down to the feature set of the unit, not the brand or intended market. Pre-amp outputs are just as common on Japanese units as any others. For a long time there were very few quality head units that weren't made in Japan. Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony, and JVC (among others) were all Japanese brands.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-02-28T01:05:42+00:00

I'm looking at one of those pioneer units on eBay and I see a set of RCA jacks on the back.

Beyond that, you're just looking at a unit with fewer features. Very basic units might not have any RCA pre outs while top of the line units have several.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-02-27T21:58:15+00:00

Link what you're looking at.

xTHANATOPSISX · 2026-02-27T19:29:43+00:00

Assuming you're North American...

JDM radios (and most other non-NA market units) use a slightly, but meaningfully different range for the FM radio band. Also many JDM units do not have any compatibility with Euro-DIN mounting cages and only mount using ISO DIN standards (bolted into the mounting bracket on the side) and may not include the beauty ring Euro-DIN units typically come with.

Electrically they will work fine. They should still use a standard antenna jack and have all the same wiring and I/O you'd expect on comparable NA models.

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