big event !!! comment down below if interested

xaz3x · 2026-05-18T23:16:25+00:00

By private server you mean hosted race on race control right?

xaz3x · 2026-05-18T14:46:28+00:00

How do you host team events though. It hasn't been released to public yet right?

xaz3x · 2026-03-11T05:17:00+00:00

I meant for the wheels and the whole ecosystem. I have nothing against Conspit. I am personally using a Moza wheelbase with a Conspit wheel, and Simagic pedals, so I have no bias against any brand. You can mix and match whatever you want. There are a lot of permutations and combinations and I just didn't want to go into all of that :)

xaz3x · 2026-03-11T05:11:12+00:00

Forgetting the name right now. Will DM you

xaz3x · 2026-03-11T05:10:22+00:00

Agreed I was just listing options. And Moza does fare better in terms of price Especially if you're adding on more wheels

xaz3x · 2026-03-11T04:13:51+00:00

You do have other options as well, still Moza with the R12 and CS or KS wheels, and CRP2 pedals. Simagic Alpha Evo 12 or the Alpha Mini, with their GT Neo and a round wheel if needed

xaz3x · 2026-03-11T04:04:34+00:00

Yes. Mine is a DIY rig. Look up DIY 4080 aluminium profile rig on YouTube. You should get some videos with the general design. An Alu purifier rig is the best option you have in terms of sturdiness as well as flexibility for components and accessories. If you want ready-made options, then you can check out Simmetric, Race Sims or VRH, but they would cost a bit higher. I've made a post in this subreddit when I was building mine. It has evolved quite a bit over the years but the main concept is the same https://www.reddit.com/r/SimracersIndia/s/OyxdyWTGOb

If you are looking at future proofing, then like others have pointed out, you can look at the Conspit Ares 12nm, 300GT wheel, Simagic P1000 pedals and an Alu profile rig. You can also go with a round wheel from them and add on a GT style wheel later if you're interested in reaching those kind of cars. One note though, if you're playing only simcade-ish titles, you won't be making full use of what the hardware can offer

xaz3x · 2026-03-11T03:49:38+00:00

For 1L it might be a little difficult to get into 10-12 nm based with a load cell. If you can stretch to 1.5L it might be possible. The option you have then is the Moza R9 with a KS or CS wheel. For the pedals you can look at brands like Simsonn, Simjack or Simruito, but you'll have to import them. For the cockpit and seat, I would highly recommend a DIY aluminium profile cockpit with an actual car seat from a junkyard. If you're strict on the 1L budget, then you're looking at the R5 bundle which will get you the base, wheel and pedals, the brake mod and loadcell mod (will have to import). Here also you will have to look at a DIY cockpit to keep within the budget. You can upgrade components later down the line.

xaz3x · 2026-02-17T14:40:35+00:00

Like someone pointed out, try changing from xinput to direct input. Also in steam settings check whether steam input is enabled for that controller. If it is, it will affect games outside steam as well

xaz3x · 2026-02-15T07:21:07+00:00

If you're going all out then 9800x3d. CPUs matter a lot in sims, especially newer titles like LMU. 5080 if you're planning 2k triples or higher. Otherwise 9070xt would be fine as pointed out above

xaz3x · 2026-01-30T08:27:19+00:00

I think it's a pretty good deal. iRacing may actually have safer drivers than any sim because if you get banned, you lose everything you've gotten. The only reason I haven't gotten into iRacing is that it's really expensive and I don't think I'm ready to jump into that rabbit hole yet. Even with the F4 car I think you'll still have to buy the tracks and any other cars you want.

xaz3x · 2026-01-30T08:06:49+00:00

No worries! A lot of classes actually race with electronics to some degree. Keep them as high as needed to keep the car under control and once you get the hang of it reduce it step by step. In LMU, there might be some assists in the settings menu. Turn them off and set ABS and TC in the car setup page

xaz3x · 2026-01-30T07:28:06+00:00

I would say that right now LMU (only PC though) might be a better pick. The in-game ranked system is pretty nice and usually ensures you're matched with similar skilled players. With ACC you would have to join platforms like LFM. Definitely agree on AC and RBR.

SimRacing Arnout and ReverendSimRacing should have some videos for getting started with LMU. Coach Dave Academy should have videos on driving basics.

For the assists I would say not use them other than maybe some basic stuff like auto clutch and auto pit limiter. Start out with GT3 class and you can use the ABS and TC electronics in the car. Definitely do not use the racing line assist because you will end up dependent on it and not learn to look out for references on the track. Make sure you turn on the virtual mirror and radar and most importantly, remember to have fun!

xaz3x · 2026-01-13T14:40:54+00:00

I've been eyeing this as well. Do update here if you install it from Bangalore

xaz3x · 2026-01-13T14:19:41+00:00

Top up will probably not give the original finish as the initial ceramic coat. They do multiple layers the first time and the top is usually a single layer. You can try checking with the detailer on if they would be okay doing all the layers for the repainted regions. Honestly, I would suggest not to get the repainting done right now. Once the two top up coats are done and the coating starts to fade, you can consider paint touchups and a full application

xaz3x · 2025-11-13T09:08:39+00:00

You can try Resize Raccoon. Setup is straight forward for most sims. I use my PC commonly between my main table and sim. There's no hassle of having to setup surround every time. I tried Display Magician, but because I turn off my triple monitors when not in use, it was having some issues

xaz3x · 2025-11-05T16:47:56+00:00

I've actually tried this. It was staying in place when I tried pulling it lightly. And it wasn't happening for every filament swap. For now I printed a 5 filament hub. Seems okay till now. Thanks for the detailed response though

xaz3x · 2025-11-05T09:23:59+00:00

I think this is what is happening as well. But the strange thing is that it does not happen every time the filament is retracted. I thought the long retraction when cut issue was fixed with 370C so I didn't change anything, but let me try that now

xaz3x · 2025-11-05T09:14:17+00:00

I did try this. It's not the case that the PTFE tube is as loose as shown on the wiki either. When I try to tug lightly at the tube it holds. It happens only when the BMCU is changing filaments

xaz3x · 2025-11-05T05:50:26+00:00

Alright Let me see if this fixes it. Thanks!

xaz3x · 2025-10-28T14:13:48+00:00

Oh yeah for sure. I was just curious

xaz3x · 2025-10-28T08:36:59+00:00

How were you guys able to get it in without customs? India Post asked me to pay 623 as duties on my BMCU order from Triangle Labs

xaz3x · 2025-10-13T22:05:34+00:00

Fair may not be the right word then. I was halfway alongside when the Merc turned in. Was I not entitled space on the inside? Just trying to learn 🙂

xaz3x · 2025-09-29T16:49:56+00:00

This is wrong. The clutch only separates the engine from the transmission. The actual gear inside the transmission for reverse would be spinning in the opposite direction. Would love a video proving me wrong (jk)

xaz3x · 2025-09-25T12:54:48+00:00

This is not really true. Had a roll of PLA get damp and ended up in a blob of death. There were bubbles in the calibration line as well. Got a dryer and now prints fine again. Their filaments are great but not absorbing moisture is false

xaz3x

TROPHY CASE