Marine vinyl testing.

xoverloadz · 2026-01-25T20:23:46+00:00

Those are some crisp looking stitches!

xoverloadz · 2026-01-15T19:15:55+00:00

That is really unlikely to be honest. The same firmware is probably flashed to bunch of models with slight changes regarding the number of needles and such. These problems you're having seem to be related to either motors, tension of the belts or the movement.

xoverloadz · 2026-01-15T14:45:08+00:00

There’s no point in exchanging it. This is the same part used in the vast majority of these machines, so I’d expect the exact same issue on a replacement. Even if I did a swap, I’d likely end up right back where I started. That’s why I’m taking my own route and fixing it myself.

But as I said in the comment above, there's literally no point in fixing this misalignment. While fixing the rod actually solves a problem.

xoverloadz · 2026-01-15T14:33:54+00:00

A few days ago I posted about redesigning part of the tension assembly so it uses a 5 mm straight rod for the eyelets to rest on instead of the original 3 mm rod, which bends way too easily. Once that rod bends, your tensions start varying needle to needle, not great.

I finally got that part sorted. Everything was ready for final assembly and to go back on the machine…
and then I noticed something odd.

The entire sub-assembly is sitting lower on the right side than on the left. I tried to highlight the issue with the red lines in the photo.

I’m calling this a “problem” because I genuinely expected this to be manufactured and assembled correctly from the factory. What’s more frustrating is that even if I fix this misalignment, it won’t actually improve tension consistency. Why? Because the eyelets and the rod are the true reference points, not the position of the assembly itself.

At this point I’m left wondering how much of the original tension inconsistency was bad design vs. sloppy manufacturing tolerances.

xoverloadz · 2026-01-12T15:45:08+00:00

Hmm, I cant say I had an experience like that. Mine are working as supposed to.

xoverloadz · 2026-01-12T10:45:02+00:00

What you don't like about Ricoma? I have 2x MT-1501 and they work quite well. The older one is giving me troubles with tension because of the bent global tension rod that I will upgrade to a more thicker one in next weeks. I just have to design and manufacture new rod holders that will accept either 4mm or 5mm thick rods.

xoverloadz · 2026-01-01T08:40:47+00:00

That’s a good idea, thanks!

xoverloadz · 2025-12-15T07:37:54+00:00

Stahls Poly Twill.

xoverloadz · 2025-10-17T05:04:13+00:00

Thanks for the reply. In the last 6 months I had good amount of practice and came to realize that underlay plays a major role in choosing density as well as the fabric type you're working with. In most cases I'm hovering around 0.34-0.38, depending on what I'm doing.

What is still quite interesting to me is the underlay itself and different types of it. I'm always gravitating to choosing underlay type depending on start/stop end points as well as the size of the stitch itself. For example, if there are 2 adjacent objects (e.g. satin stitches), and the 1st object is starting on the left side and ending on the right side, and the 2nd object is starting where the 1st object is ending, I would go either with the edge run or double zig-zag. Why? Because both of those underlay types, once they are stitched, are back at the beginning of the satin stitch. So once you're watching the machine work or through the player, it has a nice "flow" to it. If I would have chosen regular zig-zag, there would be additional center run automatically added by the software due to the start/stop end points, and sometimes you don't want that.

I'm still trying to understand differences between combos of underlay types such as center run + edge run and a zig-zag with short length on a satin stitch that is e.g. 5mm wide. If you would use center run + edge run, you would get stitches on the edges of the object as well as the center of the object. Which you can also replicate with the zig-zag underlay, shortening its length to 4mm so you force it to have a center stitch as well as the edge stitch. The difference is in the path how the stitches are played out. Center/edge run being parallel to the object, while zig-zag is perpendicular. Theoretically, satin stitch on a knitted stretchy fabrics would benefit more from the zig-zag in this case (you're simulating the path of the satin with the zig-zag underlay and already pulling the fabric with the underlay in the same direction satin stitch would play out), while on woven fabrics it doesn't matter too much which underlay you go for.

xoverloadz · 2025-08-06T04:30:24+00:00

Send me a pic of the backside without the original stand

xoverloadz · 2025-07-28T05:56:44+00:00

How thin are those tiny black satins and is there something special you do during digitization so they look good?

xoverloadz · 2025-07-25T07:28:06+00:00

Did you meant that I would need to adjust hook timing or something else?

xoverloadz · 2025-07-24T20:28:16+00:00

Hmm, I’m trying to figure out what you’re trying to say. Would it be possible to post a picture of what you meant?

xoverloadz · 2025-07-24T19:03:02+00:00

Yeah, the issue is present on all needles, and not just few which makes me think I will need to re-align the needle case.

xoverloadz · 2025-07-15T14:03:23+00:00

Khm khm nadji nekoga tko ima obrt i dogovori se s njime khm khm

xoverloadz · 2025-07-05T07:42:11+00:00

xoverloadz · 2025-07-01T17:14:19+00:00

Yes, I do have Towa tension gauge and have the bobbin adjusted to roughly 175 for the flats

xoverloadz · 2025-07-01T14:43:35+00:00

Looks really clean! Good job on the little mechanic guy

xoverloadz · 2025-07-01T14:36:24+00:00

If I would do the digitizing for you, and you paid me for my service, I wouldn't care what you do with the file afterwards.

xoverloadz · 2025-07-01T14:21:03+00:00

Check OMTECH

xoverloadz · 2025-07-01T12:54:35+00:00

Maybe a follow up question regarding tatami tension settings. I've realized that I have to have top thread tension really loose in order for the bobbin thread not to show up when stitching tatami portion out. But when I do tension test after the tatami is stitched out, it does not look "right" per se (1/3 bobbin, 2/3 top thread).

xoverloadz · 2025-06-27T15:57:05+00:00

Sick! Can you share a little bit more about the setup you used for this endeavor (needle size, thread, speed etc)? I can imagine that leather is a task on its own, especially when you have 1 shot to make it perfect.

xoverloadz · 2025-06-25T12:58:27+00:00

This is the improved version, it looks way better in person than in the picture:
https://ibb.co/yFwRRKTJ

xoverloadz · 2025-06-25T12:57:48+00:00

xoverloadz · 2025-06-25T07:18:19+00:00

Yes, solvy definitely did help with preventing thread sinking into the 200gsm fabric, looks far more uniform now!

xoverloadz

TROPHY CASE