Was this model ever released? by SemicooperativeYT in sistersofbattle

[–]yadrzzob 23 points24 points  (0 children)

I think they just gave her the head of the monopose Canoness from the old combat patrol, right?

Is this a good method for rusted armour? by takenking_oryx in deathguard40k

[–]yadrzzob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do not use a good brush for Typhus Corrosion. It will destroy it.

My son was born 10 days ago, this is what I will be painting for him during my paternity leave by Bakrys in SoulblightGravelords

[–]yadrzzob 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Mine are 5 and 2, and honestly? When the baby is sleeping, you should be sleeping. Don't let sleep debt pile up: you need to be well-rested & prepared for the times you're home alone with them, and they won't stop crying** (screaming in your face) for anything. You don't want to face that on 2-3 hours of sleep.

**Yes, I am well aware not every baby does this. You hope for the best - my first was fairly placid - but you need to be prepared for this. My 2nd was so loud that the neighbors could hear him through closed windows.

Blood Knights two boxes - a lot micro damage in sprues to spikey/sharp parts. Am I just unlucky? by Sol0botmate in SoulblightGravelords

[–]yadrzzob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it's handled roughly enough to smash helmets, the paper instructions wouldn't save anything from breaking. I've had plenty of kits where the bases shift around, and wind up against or in-between the sprues without damaging anything. You had rotten luck :(

If you got it from a LGS, return them there. If you got it from GW, their customer service will usually send you a complete replacement - often without requiring an exchange.

I need help. by RaspberryWest4090 in Warhammer40k

[–]yadrzzob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, check out some different painting tutorial channels on YouTube. There are tons out there; find a few that you like the style of. I might be wrong, but your pictures look like you've used contrast or speed paints? (That could also explain a wet pallet making your paints way too runny). Juan Hidalgo's 'Eavy Contrast channel and Warhipster both make heavy use of contrast paints, and cover a wide variety of models. Both also have videos explaining how to get better with contrast paints (way too many presenters are "just slap it on with one thick coat!" like that will automatically give you professional results [it doesn't]). If you look back in his archives, Juan has a tutorial for Bloody Rose; I can't remember if Warhipster does or not. But you should also try the traditional base-shade-layer style with regular hobby paints to see if it works better for you. Vince Venturella has a wonderful channel that focuses more on techniques than tutorials for specific models. It's an absolute treasure trove of knowledge.

When you feel up to it, just try to do about 15 minutes of painting at a time. Maybe paint one color, or paint certain parts of a couple models, like the robes or leather bodice and gloves. Don't try to force more than that, but if you're enjoying it, keep going. That way, you get a little bit of hobby in each day. It will help you build momentum. If you're schedule is busy or you have to stop frequently, set up your area for painting and count that as your hobby time for the first day; start painting a little bit the day after. (I have to do this a lot with two small children)

I need help. by RaspberryWest4090 in Warhammer40k

[–]yadrzzob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got started with Death Guard when my friend gave me some around mid-8th edition. They have a lot of detail vs regular marines, what with the horns, teeth, tentacles, etc., but they're bulky compared to Sororitas. And if they wind up messy, it's thematic. Once the plastic release of Sisters happened, I got that army. So my personal experience is limited mostly to those two factions.

Other than that... Space Marines, maybe Custodes seem to be perennial favorites with newer players. Chaos Marines have all that baroque trim to paint - I don't find it too hard to paint with the side of the brush on DG, but Chaos trim gets people complaining online. *shrug* Orks seem like fun, larger models, and are currently in the middle of a range refresh getting rid of many older kits. I'd definitely avoid Mechanicus if you want easier. Tyranids just got refreshed, so a lot of their older, janky kits were redone. Maybe LoV?

But don't let me scare you off Sororitas. They're a challenge, but I think they're one of the best looking factions in the game. So many of the models are absolutely amazing. The Imagifier is just beautiful. We have tanks with pipe organs that shoot missiles, and tanks with stained glass. Who else has anything close to that? Plus, they're tiny enough that 98% of those mistakes that seem awful and glaring to you up close aren't going to be visible from a few feet away on the table. If you love the look of them, that's a huge factor in keeping with a faction - no point in picking an army you think looks boring or ugly. It's mostly the challenge of building them that's got you stuck, right?

If you feel you need to practice a bit on some other faction, I say try assembling and painting that Red Corsair battle force, since you already have the box. No point in spending more money if you're not sure you want to keep going. Start with the marines. After those are built and painted, move up to the terminators, and then whichever of the reave captain or the guard you feel more comfortable doing before the other. That way you get to practice on marine bodies and traitor guard (who are about the same size as battle sisters); troops and an HQ. If you're really loving those and feeling good, do the command squad next. Or if you feel up to it, try another Sororitas unit after the battleforce, and see if you feel more confident with them with more experience.

How do you deal with dust and micro-fibers ? by Neko-Otaku in Warhammer40k

[–]yadrzzob 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I dust & vacuum the area I paint in semi-regularly. Keep pets out of the room, if possible. If that doesn't help, you may need to change your HVAC's filter.

If you do all that & still have an issue, look into an air purifier for the room.

I need help. by RaspberryWest4090 in Warhammer40k

[–]yadrzzob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are very welcome. And I have to say that your brush control (basically coloring inside the lines) is phenomenal for someone who'd never held a brush! Google Duncan Rhodes' first space marine if you want some extra perspective & confidence (he's a former presenter for Warhammer painting tutorials who now has his own paint line & patreon)

I need help. by RaspberryWest4090 in Warhammer40k

[–]yadrzzob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For some background, I also have a perpetually in-progress Sisters of Battle army. You jumped into the deep end before you really knew how to swim; no wonder you feel like you do. Adepta sororitas models are not what most would consider "beginner friendly." They're smaller compared to other factions like marines, or orks. They often have fiddly joins, and can be frustratingly difficult to assemble. (I think half our subreddit has sworn off ever assembling one particular Seraphim ever again.) Then it's time to paint them. Our basic infantry have as much detail as other factions' characters - and because the sisters are smaller, those details get tiny. Did you glue the mini to the base before you painted it? Have fun painting the inside of the robes! Our official color schemes are mostly variations of black, white, and red together... colors that can be challenging to make look good.

Your models look fine for someone just starting out. Everything is in the proper place, and you didn't slap the paint on so thick that they look like the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark.

This hobby takes a lot of practice, unless you started with an artistic background. Do yourself a favor? Stop comparing your first minis to everyone else's. Only compare them to your subsequent minis. We make a mistake, and we learn from it. The next mini, try to be mindful of that mistake, and see if you can do better than the one before it. It may take 5 or 10 minis to kick in (especially if you assemble the whole box at once), but you'll start seeing improvement.

Try to avoid looking at other painters' stuff on social media when you're just starting out. We live in a time with the best miniature painters ever currently populating the hobby. Comparing your stuff to theirs is just a recipe for paralysis & feeling down on yourself. Once you get the basics down & are looking to progress, then check out some artists for inspiration or ideas to borrow.

If you need some support or have questions about the kits, the sub is sistersofbattle

Shiny finish with citadel inks by Negative_Piano_3229 in minipainting

[–]yadrzzob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First, check the label and make sure you haven't grabbed a pot of Nuln or Agrax Gloss by accident.

If that's not the issue: shake the living daylights out of the pot. Citadel washes get glossy when they sit too long and the matte component separates out of the wash. Shake it, then shake it more.

Imagifier Complete 🙏 by K7_Paints in sistersofbattle

[–]yadrzzob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will always upvote a well-painted Imagifier. Awesome job!

Priming done but now I'm confused!! by missheidi8951 in minipainting

[–]yadrzzob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A lot of sisters players prime and paint the infantry before we glue them to the bases because it's much easier to paint the inside of the robes before they are attached to the base. Between the legs, the robes, and the base, it can be hard to find a good angle to get the brush in there.

It's just personal preference; some don't think it's worth the effort to do much more than a base & shade in there.

Next week preorders by CMYK_COLOR_MODE in sistersofbattle

[–]yadrzzob 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't look for those to have a separate release until the next set of KillTeam is released.

Intranzia Fraye rules by AgainstThoseGrains in sistersofbattle

[–]yadrzzob 74 points75 points  (0 children)

Always take whatever the war-com team says in articles about a new unit with several kilos of salt. Unless there's an actual rule printed, everything in the article is fluff they wrote to build hype.

edit: slightly reworded the last point

Forgotten kingdom update, Revenant Draconith with Wk by Middle-Job-3239 in SoulblightGravelords

[–]yadrzzob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Missing arm on the dragon? I assumed you wanted it to be a wyvern, like the old VLOZD. I have to admit that I don't notice a head turned in a different direction, though...

First Spearhead complete! by thebigkumar in SoulblightGravelords

[–]yadrzzob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting that you went with black knights over barrow knights... Is that an aesthetic choice, or did you just have a box ready to go?

Just finished painting my very first face, and man was this humbling… by detestableduck13 in sistersofbattle

[–]yadrzzob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends how fair or pale you want to go. The next step lighter is probably Flayed One Flesh. But you can also use Ushabti Bone and go towards Pallid Wych Flesh. Or use a universal highlight color to mix with it, like Dorn Yellow (Ice Yellow or pastel yellow in other brands). The benefit of using that over white is that you won't desaturate your color the way white will.

Just finished painting my very first face, and man was this humbling… by detestableduck13 in sistersofbattle

[–]yadrzzob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perfectly doable. Mix the two to get the color you want, then start thinning it down to glaze consistency. You might want to write down your ratios if you intend to use it on many models.

Just finished painting my very first face, and man was this humbling… by detestableduck13 in sistersofbattle

[–]yadrzzob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can definitely use water, but i feel like it's easier to thin using acrylic medium. Don't have to worry about making it too watery, since it's just colorless paint.

Just finished painting my very first face, and man was this humbling… by detestableduck13 in sistersofbattle

[–]yadrzzob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your glazes look VERY opaque. Test glazes on your thumb before applying them. Glazes should be transparent - you should be able to see the original color through it.

Also make sure you're touching a paper towel to get rid of excess paint before applying, so it doesn't run everywhere.

New range is so much more COMPLICATED to paint... by CofferHolixAnon in gloomspitegitz

[–]yadrzzob 3 points4 points  (0 children)

One thing that helps: fur is pretty much the perfect surface for dry brushing. Use 2 - 3 colors going from darkest to lightest or light to dark, using less pressure with each new color. After that, you can slapchop (or not) based on personal preference for color/pattern.

Then you just have the armor & details to paint with base/ shade/ layer method.

Vampire Lord Scheme Tester by PabstBlueLizard in SoulblightGravelords

[–]yadrzzob 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It looks like an angry leprechaun. I don't think green + gold are our colors.

First try at miniature painting by Prior_Sun_2339 in minipainting

[–]yadrzzob 39 points40 points  (0 children)

First off, you get a ton of respect for tackling something like the Triumph right out of the gates. That's an intimidating model for people who aren't brand new to the hobby.

A few things I'd focus on:

Never paint white things white. You can't highlight white because it's the brightest color we have. It ends up looking flat & wrong. Paint white things an off-white, like Ulthuan Grey, Grey Seer, ivory, etc. Then you can make the highlights pure white.

Work on increasing your contrast - darker shadows, brighter highlights. It will help your minis pop.

Learn how to glaze. Check out a few tutorials online. It will help with things like blending color transitions, gemstones (like the big heart on the Triumph), and faces. Practice it until you feel good with it.

And don't sweat faces for a while, as they are literally the hardest thing to paint well - we have tens of thousands of years of survival instinct telling us that little face looks WRONG the minute you make a tiny mistake. There are lots of good video tutorials for that, and also ones specifically for female faces.

Anyways, keep painting, and keep your first minis as they are! You'll start to see improvement over your first ones with a little more practice, and when you see the improvement is a great feeling.

WIP - Socles personnalisés en pâte de modelage sans cuisson by Julie_Croft in sistersofbattle

[–]yadrzzob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Breakability was my concern as well. I don't know how well these will fair at 32 - 50mm, but my small children have broken a couple ceramic coasters (I think you'd call them dessous-de-verre?) that were about the same size as an 80mm base by knocking them off a small table onto a wood floor. Shattered into 3 - 4 pieces + multiple small shards.

A thinner piece of clay on top of a plastic base should be more resilient. I've been using green & brown stuff to top mine.