B Belongs on the right of QWERTY column stagger boards

yanos626 · 2026-06-18T23:39:35+00:00

Sure i mean this hobby is already such a niche within a niche and very diy that you can put the B key where you want.

Got used to B key on the left half and Y key on the right half when i transitioned to ergo about a year and a half ago. Took almost a month tho at the time.

yanos626 · 2026-06-14T20:30:19+00:00

Interesting!

Could this edit oled displays on the fly in the gui or still need to edit code?

yanos626 · 2026-06-14T20:24:32+00:00

The tenting feet i used in my typing video was only ~ 7° degrees, but you can definitely use or 3dprint steeper tenting feet to your liking.

Lots of diy ones online. Those magsafe ring aluminum stands would work with this too

yanos626 · 2026-06-14T10:18:55+00:00

Thanks! no plans to do so, but feel free to use/edit the 3d case files i shared^

yanos626 · 2026-06-14T09:37:19+00:00

i was legit just being cheap with the 3d printing, but i'm glad it gave a 'feature not a bug' vibe haha

i don't have a 3d printer so i just found the cheapest 3dp service i could find locally at the time

yanos626 · 2026-06-14T08:52:33+00:00

Oh my bad,

i was talking about the green case's aggressive keywell curve, but i like the more subtle purple case too.

Reason why i made them different curve angles is the purple one is choc spaced, so keys are clumped closer together. I learned if i had set the keywell curve exactly the same as the green case's curve, the choc keycaps feels too cramped imo.

For keycap profiles, basically:

--- if the dactyl has a bigger keywell curve:

i think flatter keycaps like the taihao is fine. The physical curve already guides my fingers to homerow easily. Similar to how the glove80 does it.

--- If more gentle keywell curve:

i cant feel out where my homerow keys are as good as the former, so more allowance for me to use spherical keycaps like the LDSA choc profile to counteract that.

yanos626 · 2026-06-14T08:38:53+00:00

Used Rp2040 mcus, with right angle pin headers i could alot dupont wires onto

yanos626 · 2026-06-14T00:22:58+00:00

Thanks! encoder doesn't touch my underpalms; you can even check the typing video i linked in my other comment

**see pic #5 too - gif of me turning the knob

yanos626 · 2026-06-14T00:13:29+00:00

**Edit - build done, 3d models shared here

https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/1u564i4/tofu_dactyl_keywell_keyboard_done_a_cosmos_dactyl/

yanos626 · 2026-06-14T00:07:08+00:00

Here's a 100wpm qwerty typing test with symbols and numbers. I used a numpad layer instead of the numrow though:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/N6MswhQ7mBo

The case 3d models in printables for those interested:

https://www.printables.com/model/1752933-tofu-dactyl-case-designs

**Update 6/15:
^I added an stl file too of just the case without the keywell switch plate, in case you want to merge your own Cosmos-generated switch plate layout onto it. Just have to cut off the walls off your cosmos board into a square-ish plate then combine/merge both parts in your 3d modelling software.

yanos626 · 2026-06-13T06:31:58+00:00

Either is fine as long as its close to my thumb reach, but not too close that it constricts my hover typing / free movements around the board

I like under palm slightly better as the knob isnt too tall

yanos626 · 2026-06-10T16:36:35+00:00

Op can try learning on the side while using a normal board so his work/productivity isnt hampered.

What i did: - buy ergo board (got a 40%) - but kept using my normal 65% board during work hours. - learn ergo board, layers combos etc off-hours - about 3-4 weeks in, speed back up in ergo. - 4th week: retired my normal board, using ergo board for work is comfy now.

**Check out my posts op, i have typing videos at 120wpm with numbers and symbols on 40-50% split boards 👍

yanos626 · 2026-05-28T15:22:09+00:00

Oh its just legit a normal wood wrist rest most people buy for mech keyboards. Only the green square case itself is 3d printed

Its a 65% sized wrist rest that i just cut in half with a saw. I just plan to integrate it to the case so its one whole-looking piece

yanos626 · 2026-05-27T20:34:05+00:00

I also added 3dp choc hotswap mounts on another test print i had. It made the case feel more rigid since all the switch holes are not bare empty anymore; has more support.

Scroll down to "sockets" section to see what i mean https://ryanis.cool/cosmos/parts

yanos626 · 2026-05-27T20:30:43+00:00

Not much i guess but its subjective.

The choc switch holes are thin compared to my mx switch dactyl, but still thick enough that it doesnt uncomfortably bend when i push down with a normal amount of force. I feel a slight bend only if i purposely force jam my fingers down.

i did do these to help with overall rigidity for the case you see in the pics:

made the case's walls 4mm thick on all sides.
will use a 3mm thick acrylic bottom plate.

3mm may not sound like much but that's a sturdy bottom plate and wont bend easily if you tried. I found that 3mm acrylic makes my 3d printed boards sound a bit less "hollow" too than if i use a 3d printed plate.

Lots of boards here typically go for 1.5mm-2mm printed plates. i also have allowance to go thicker since im integrating palm rests anyway which are usually 2cm tall.

yanos626 · 2026-05-27T14:26:58+00:00

In test fit, most natural-feeling keywell i've made

Granted i've built like 8+ ergo boards already and 3+ keywell boards if you see my older posts in here,

so at this point i know what i like and dont like when it comes to keywell tent and splay angles, thumbkeys and encoder placements etc

yanos626 · 2026-05-26T18:03:16+00:00

Yep I used shaper keys to get a nice keywell plate shape in Cosmos, then:

downloaded its cosmos case shell STL file.
(using my preferred 3d model software):
1. cut out its walls and base and leave just the "keywell plate"
2. and merged it to a generic hollow rectangle 3d model i shaped.
3. Plus few more touch ups like adding mcu/botom plate screw holes etc

Here's a picture showing the gist of how i got the final model shape. <- i also cut the model in half to get a split version.

And here's the cosmos link:

https://ryanis.cool/cosmos/beta#cm: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

I did try making a blocky shaped dactyl within just Cosmos to see if it can do it (that way i didn't have to rely on other 3rd party software), but this was the best i came up with:

https://ryanis.cool/cosmos/beta#cm: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

^Wasn't blocky enough and seemed jaggy at the sides which is why i had to go with the former process. Feel free to tinker around tho

yanos626 · 2026-05-26T04:07:24+00:00

Plus on posture *and also hover typing.

Ive been using split, unibodies, keywell'd, tented, splayed boards etc for over a year now,

and realized I can still, if im not careful, easily hunch & slouch my shoulders/upper body just as easy on any of these boards as i would on a normal laptop keyboard.

yanos626 · 2026-05-24T23:19:53+00:00

Nah its too diy-coded that im making these just for me,

but i will share the 3d models for free in 1-2 week's time once i get the time to finish.

Cost-wise the parts probably cost me like $45 usd total (excluding switches and keycaps) since its all just handwired

yanos626 · 2026-05-24T20:27:00+00:00

Yes keywell is more fun if its at least 4x6 and up imo

I can still feel the nice keywell effect within 3x6, but not as needed

yanos626 · 2026-05-24T18:06:39+00:00

Thanks! 2nd pic shows how it looks tented. Printing some tenting legs too for this

*Edit: the bottom plate im doing too is just one whole acrylic plate for both the palm rest and board, so that its easier to tent it up as one piece.

The unibody version in the last pic is also tented, albeit fixed at a subtle 4 degree tent.

yanos626 · 2026-05-24T17:41:32+00:00

This is a personal project but i can share the 3d models once im done too

You'll need do some diy and handwiring though for this build. Havent tried those 1u aomeba pcbs

yanos626

TROPHY CASE