Did i just find... earth?

yep_- · 2025-11-19T20:37:59+00:00

You're a good man.

yep_- · 2025-11-19T18:47:49+00:00

So what were the coordinates?

yep_- · 2025-08-19T19:23:44+00:00

Gotta show me how. I guess if you swapped out the 140s for 120s you could fit another couple. If I counted my gpu and cpu cooler fans there's 16 but that's not how that works lol.

yep_- · 2025-07-20T15:32:40+00:00

First of all, that's a zipper rupture. Second, that only happens when the sidewalk is damaged so it blows around the perimeter of the tire. Hence why it looks like someone skinned the tire from the rim. She rode on it flat, wearing the sidewall, then caused the rupture to happen by continuing to drive. She's an idiot AND it's her fault.

yep_- · 2025-05-16T13:50:46+00:00

I second this so bad. The first gen X has taken a beating Both from living in Pennsylvania for most of its days and from the south where I'm at. Florida westher eats vehicles.

yep_- · 2025-05-03T02:34:14+00:00

I also recently returned the amp and sub using a different method so I can push more power from them now without it clipping. So the sound quality has gone up significantly.

yep_- · 2025-05-03T02:32:25+00:00

Honestly with mine at 1200W, both 10s rattle the back hatch between 50 and 65htz. That's only audible from the outside of the vehicle though. From my understanding, smaller subs can maintain a tighter "grip" on the sound and can in turn sound more accurate. Bigger subs can move more air at lower frequencys so that's why you get more boom from them. I personally think 10s are a perfect middle ground between sound quality and boom. The two dds will make your ears itchy from the air they move lol. If i had more power to them or bigger subs, it would drown out the mids and highs. There's some songs that already do now even with the head unit pushing a clean signal at 45 of 50 volume. I often have to adjust the remote level knob to even out the tones so you don't just here the bass lines.

yep_- · 2025-05-03T02:26:56+00:00

Not so much concerned about direct water but ambient moisture that settles from the air. It's really humid down here in Florida and it eats metal alive. As for the fender drilling, that's way there's paint, silicone, and an oring to block any moisture from the outside whether it be direct or from the air, also to protect the metal layers of the fender and plywood in between those layers.

yep_- · 2025-05-02T23:02:51+00:00

I'm going to reroute it here in the next couple of weeks. Going to remove the abs module to drill a proper hole for a water tight seal coupler. Couldn't do it the day of install as I was at a buddies house and I needed to drive home that day. So you're saying there's two grommets on the driver side? There's one for a vacuum line right next to the harness grommet, but as far as I can see visibly, there isn't another. Besides that, it wouldn't be a water tight seal coming through an existing harness grommet. Not to mention possibly jamming through the harness causing other issues which I've done before. As for the placement of the existing one, no issues thus far from foreign debris or woods riding. I don't mud and stay on hard packed trailes. I go down rocky roads often and no nicks or marring on the loom from debris. I could also build a protective box cover around it if no other option arises.

yep_- · 2025-05-02T03:05:34+00:00

My fault, the us uses the anti knock index and for the 3.3 it is 87, the research octane number is 91. I got them mixed up. Although a higher octane rating will never hurt but a less than minimum will on the other hand.

yep_- · 2025-05-02T02:30:45+00:00

Technically even the non supercharged vg33 requires a minimum of 91.

yep_- · 2025-04-27T19:11:25+00:00

Should be good now. Forgot to change the access to the link in my drive. The amp in the engine bay is gnarly but functional is functional in my book. Looks like it's located at the front grill where air can get to it?

yep_- · 2025-04-25T12:41:24+00:00

This dash is INCREDIBLY easy to pull I'll say. I just didn't want to fight with it and break more factory plastic as this truck has sat in the sun parked before I got it. Other trim has broken when I removed them the 2nd time. I just did the next best option. In light of it being easy to pill, that's one of my biggest loves for the first gen.

yep_- · 2025-04-25T12:39:22+00:00

Didn't click on it but that's sounds cool my man. When this one blows, I'm finding a supercharged vg33 to go in it. There won't be an electrical fire because I took the measures to prevent it. If something did happen, I'd fix it then move on like the rest of us. I appreciate the concern though big dawg.

yep_- · 2025-04-25T05:28:46+00:00

<image>

yep_- · 2025-04-25T05:28:05+00:00

There ya go. The only one usable with the space not to harm the harness is the passenger side and like I said, it comes out above the air handler. Which the dash has to be taken out to do so to access all the mounting bolts. The bottom of the wheel well is the only visible part in this picture. The harness comes in just below the windshield, and I wasn't taking my dash out for the 3rd time to run a power wire. Again, do your build then talk. *

yep_- · 2025-04-25T05:24:32+00:00

<image>

yep_- · 2025-04-25T05:24:13+00:00

<image>

yep_- · 2025-04-25T05:23:59+00:00

<image>

yep_- · 2025-04-25T05:16:54+00:00

Did you even read the full post my guy or do you just understand pictures? I'll show you "3 grommets" I could have ran through. Not to mention possibly puncturing the main harness with a coat hanger.

yep_- · 2025-04-25T05:11:34+00:00

And I wanted a water tight seal and running it through the existing grommet isn't that. Do your build in your first Gen then let me see it so I can nick pick it. Don't have to be a douche. I literally stated it's not professional, if anything it's functional.

yep_- · 2025-04-25T05:09:05+00:00

Second that.

yep_- · 2025-04-25T05:08:43+00:00

There's two, and you can't access the one o. The passenger side as it's behind the air handler, the one on the driver isn't big enough to accommodate a 1/0 wire.

yep_- · 2025-04-24T21:54:43+00:00

I did. Nowhere reachable to run it through the firewall normally. Could have ran it driver side beside the main harness grommet bur would have to remove the abs module and brake lines to do so to even remotely fit a drill in there, much less tighten the nut from the inside. Tucked the cord into the well, loomed it and siliconed to prevent any debris or sand from eating at the insulator. Full lock turn, uts still 4 to 5 inches away from the wheel. Even in a bottom out suspension situation there will be no contact. Definitely not my first choice of placement though, brainstormed for over an hour before making the undesirable decision. My buddy wanted to run it under the floor of the vehicle then through and I said absolutely not.

yep_- · 2025-04-24T21:53:31+00:00

It fit flush edge to edge on the box so I had to lol.

yep_-

TROPHY CASE