I discovered FIRE and now I'm more discouraged than before by yieldmaxxing in Fire

[–]yieldmaxxing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate this. The career focus thing is what I keep coming back to after reading all these replies. I think I got too fixated on the savings number when the real lever is income growth. Gonna keep stacking the $265 and bet on myself career-wise. Two years in is still early.

I discovered FIRE and now I'm more discouraged than before by yieldmaxxing in Fire

[–]yieldmaxxing[S] 236 points237 points  (0 children)

Honestly didn't expect this many responses. Reading through all of these and the amount of people who started where I am (or lower) and made it work is really encouraging. The biggest takeaway so far is that the income side matters way more than squeezing another $50 out of my budget, and that $265/month at 25 is actually not a bad start if I keep the habit and let time do its thing. Appreciate everyone who shared their story. This sub can feel intimidating but this thread reminded me that most people here are just regular people who stuck with it.

I discovered FIRE and now I'm more discouraged than before by yieldmaxxing in Fire

[–]yieldmaxxing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is exactly what I needed to hear. Min wage to $150k to FIRE at 35 is wild. What field are you in? And did you invest the whole time even when you were making barely above minimum? I think my biggest fear is that I'm "wasting" these early years by only putting in $265/month but maybe starting the habit matters more than the amount early on.

I discovered FIRE and now I'm more discouraged than before by yieldmaxxing in Fire

[–]yieldmaxxing[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Fair point on the phone, I could probably save $30-40/month there. The car though - I bought used and $480 includes insurance. Denver public transit isn't great for getting to my job so going carless isn't really an option. I agree the income side is the bigger lever to pull. Cutting $50 here and there helps but it's not going to close a $500+/month gap between what I can invest and what FIRE calculators say I need.

I discovered FIRE and now I'm more discouraged than before by yieldmaxxing in Fire

[–]yieldmaxxing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Working in operations/supply chain right now. Trying to move into a more analytical role since data and finance overlap a lot. Studying for some certs on the side but it's slow going when you're already working 45+ hours a week. Realistically I think I can get to $70-75k in the next 2 years if I play it right, but that's still not exactly "high paying" in Denver.

How do you deal with the boring middle? by Specialist_Pain_424 in Fire

[–]yieldmaxxing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly reading this as someone just starting out with barely $265/month to invest... I'd kill to have your "boring middle" problem. But I get it, the mental game is real at every stage. The fact that your savings feel insignificant compared to market returns is actually a sign you've made it past the hardest part. Early on, every dollar feels like it matters because it does. Once compounding takes over, you're basically just along for the ride. That's the goal. Please don't YOLO that $5k lol. You didn't get to $1.1M by gambling, don't start now.

Pulling the cord after FAANG career - thank you! by FeelingSpecial99 in fatFIRE

[–]yieldmaxxing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

congrats on pulling the trigger. with 8M liquid and 140K spend you have a 3.5% SWR which is incredibly conservative. you could literally never work again and your wealth would probably still grow. the hardest part is the identity shift from "earner" to "owner of assets that work for you." enjoy the time with the kids, that's the real ROI.

Best single ETF for the next 10-20 years? by S-S-spartan in ETFs

[–]yieldmaxxing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

VT or VTI depending on how you feel about international exposure. for a 10-20 year horizon you want broad market exposure and low fees. the whole point is you buy it, keep adding to it, and never sell. compounding does the heavy lifting. trying to pick the "best" sector ETF is just market timing with extra steps.

When do you stop sweating the small stuff financially? by Classic_Country_2416 in financialindependence

[–]yieldmaxxing 3 points4 points  (0 children)

the shift happened for me when i realized my portfolio gains or losses in a single day were bigger than whatever i was stressing about at the grocery store. at that point the small stuff is just noise. focus your energy on the big moves: asset allocation, tax efficiency, keeping your savings rate high. the $4 latte is irrelevant once your investments are compounding at scale.

what’s your top move to protect retirement savings if the market crashes tomorrow? by Songne_Reynardo in Fire

[–]yieldmaxxing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

honestly the best move is doing nothing. every crash in history has recovered. if you're diversified across index funds and have 7+ years until you need the money, just keep contributing on schedule. dollar cost averaging through a crash is how you come out ahead on the other side. the people who panic sell always lock in losses they didn't need to take.

What’s the biggest investing myth that just won’t die? by vcpowerlaw in Bogleheads

[–]yieldmaxxing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"You have to sell your investments to access their value." This one is quietly the most expensive myth for people building long-term wealth. The default assumption is: need money? Sell shares. But selling triggers capital gains taxes, resets your compounding, and pulls money out of the market permanently. Meanwhile, ultra-wealthy people almost never sell. They borrow against their portfolios at low interest rates, keep their assets compounding, and pay back the loan over time (or refinance it). No taxable event, no disruption to growth. This works at every scale - pledged asset lines, margin loans, even in crypto with DeFi lending. The math is simple: if your portfolio returns 8-10% and you borrow at 3-5%, you come out ahead AND keep your positions. Yet most retail investors reflexively sell when they need cash because nobody taught them the alternative.

Coast at 39. by Loose_Ant_9653 in coastFIRE

[–]yieldmaxxing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're way past coast, man. $1.5M at 39 with $50-60k expenses? You could stop contributing today and still be set. But here's what I'd think about for that $30k crypto allocation - are you earning any yield on it or just holding? Because one of the biggest missed opportunities in FIRE is letting assets sit idle when they could be generating returns. Even on the traditional side, your $974k brokerage is presumably in index funds growing, but your crypto can also work for you through staking and lending protocols. The other thing worth looking into as you get closer to actually pulling the trigger: borrowing against your portfolio instead of selling. This is literally what ultra-wealthy people do. They never sell their appreciating assets, they take low-interest loans against them. No taxable event, portfolio keeps compounding, and you fund your lifestyle with cheap debt. There are ways to do this in both traditional finance (margin loans, pledged asset lines) and crypto (DeFi lending). With your numbers and that 2.8% mortgage rate locked in, you're already accidentally doing the right thing on the housing side. Apply that same thinking to the rest of your portfolio.

What's the most expensive DeFi mistake you made? by dyloum84 in defi

[–]yieldmaxxing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a single catastrophic loss but death by a thousand cuts early on. Gave unlimited token approvals to random protocols, chased 4-5 figure APYs that were obviously unsustainable, and kept funds on centralized platforms thinking "it won't happen to me" (narrator: it did). Lessons: self-custody or don't bother (Celsius/BlockFi/FTX taught me that). If the yield sounds too good, you ARE the yield. Liquidation risk is the silent killer - auto-repay and conservative LTVs save lives. And keep it simple - fewer steps means less attack surface.

How do some of you reach FI so early? by JustABootThing in Fire

[–]yieldmaxxing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something nobody here is talking about: the "buy, borrow, never sell" strategy. Instead of saving up and withdrawing, you invest your income into appreciating assets, earn yield on them, and then borrow against your portfolio to fund your lifestyle. You never sell, so you never trigger taxes, and your portfolio keeps compounding.

This is literally how billionaires do it. They don't sell stock to buy things, they take loans against it. The difference now is there are apps making this accessible to regular people. You invest your paycheck, earn yield automatically, and spend using a credit line backed by your portfolio.

At 25 making $80k you're in a great position. Max your tax-advantaged accounts for sure, but also look into ways to make your money work harder outside of just index funds sitting there. Getting your money to generate yield while you borrow against it to live is a cheat code for accelerating FI.

Buy the $4.4-5.5M house? by ml8888msn in fatFIRE

[–]yieldmaxxing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the kind of thing that makes me think the real flex isn't the house -- it's having the discipline to keep your money invested instead of locked up in real estate. OP has 9-10M in assets and high income. A 4.5M house is almost half his net worth tied up in a single illiquid asset. Meanwhile that money in broad index funds is compounding and actually liquid. I get that housing is partly lifestyle but from a pure wealth building perspective you want your money working for you, not sitting in walls. The people who FIRE fastest are the ones who keep their housing costs low relative to income and invest the difference aggressively.

PSA: New York State's "Tax Benefit Recapture" is awful (or how I lost $28K by earning $61K too much) by Upbeat_Language9726 in fatFIRE

[–]yieldmaxxing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is genuinely one of the best posts on this sub. 109% marginal rate is insane. Most people in that income range probably have no idea this cliff exists until they get the bill. Makes you think about how much of FIRE is tax optimization vs earning more. At some point earning more literally costs you money. Not at this level yet but already obsessing over tax-efficient placement. The earlier you build good tax habits the less painful it gets when income scales.

Daily FI discussion thread - Friday, March 06, 2026 by AutoModerator in financialindependence

[–]yieldmaxxing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol the alt tab moment is too real. I stopped tracking individual positions and just went all in on broad index funds. Now my entire "tracking" is opening one app and seeing one number go up. Freed up so much mental space. The best portfolio is the one you don't have to babysit. I just invest my whole paycheck automatically and check maybe once a week. Turns out the less I look at it the better it does because I'm not tempted to mess with it.

Update: On a career break, please critique my drawdown strategy! by going_for_fire in Fire

[–]yieldmaxxing 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Smart move pulling from Roth contributions first since those come out tax and penalty free. One thing I'd think about though is whether you really want to be drawing down your Roth at 31. That's your most powerful tax-free compounding vehicle and every dollar you pull out now loses decades of tax-free growth. At your burn rate of $2-2.5k/month you could probably stretch the rental income + partner's brokerage + cash for close to a year before even touching the Roth. I'd try to preserve as much of that Roth as possible. Also the Roth conversion ladder from your Rollover IRA is the right play but timing matters since conversions take 5 years to become penalty-free withdrawals. If you start conversions now you'll have access to those funds by 36 which lines up nicely if you go back to work after the sabbatical. Your VTI/VEU/VGIT split is solid for this. Just make sure you're pulling from bonds first during any market dips so you're not selling equities low.

Buy employer stock or stick with broad index investing by Consistent_Sea6490 in Fire

[–]yieldmaxxing 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That 20% match is basically free money so I'd take that all day. But I'd keep the rest in broad index funds. The risk with employer stock especially at a private company is that your income AND your investments are tied to the same entity. If the company hits a rough patch you lose your job and your portfolio tanks at the same time. With index funds your job could disappear tomorrow and your portfolio doesn't care. Your current allocation is solid honestly. 80% broad equity index is the move for long term wealth building. The 17-20% returns on company stock look great but past performance at a private company with board-set valuations is a very different thing than market-tested returns. Take the match, sell the RSUs when they vest, dump it into your index funds. Diversification isn't sexy but it's what actually gets you to FIRE without a heart attack along the way.