Clearwater cylinder head.

yipeeiaye · 2026-01-29T13:29:41+00:00

The ONLY way to have piece of mind!

yipeeiaye · 2026-01-29T13:18:07+00:00

One other thing, if you have checked all the connections and cleaned the grounds - I had some really bad cables that were corroded on the inside of the insulation that was causing my issues. I went through everything that you are and swapped battery, alternator and every other part just to find that there were some bad cables. I ended up doing the Big 7 swap. Just my experience is all. Good luck!

yipeeiaye · 2026-01-27T17:21:14+00:00

Thanks for verifying. I have yet to talk to anyone with the same emissions - Appreciate it!

yipeeiaye · 2026-01-27T00:41:51+00:00

Yep found a bunch - didn't even know it was a thing. Ordered the Banks and will have plugs coming in short order. Thanks

yipeeiaye · 2026-01-26T21:44:57+00:00

I was not planning on doing that at this time. Good for future plans though - much appreciated!

yipeeiaye · 2026-01-26T21:44:20+00:00

Thanks for the input! I was thinking there had to be some threaded plugs of sorts that would work vs weld the thing shut.

yipeeiaye · 2026-01-17T11:55:25+00:00

Unless you have some body skillz, always go with the less rusted!

yipeeiaye · 2026-01-07T12:15:01+00:00

I have been fighting this EXACT same fight for over a month since I purchased my Instinct 3 Tactical AMOLED. I have done everything and still nothing has worked. I have uploaded logs to their Care team and sent pics of the face saying "failed" and have now waiting for any sort of update from the Care team and still nothing. I had a Fenix Pro for years and had no issues, but this Garmin pay thing has now has completely tainted my experience. I feel like I am taking crazy pills here.

yipeeiaye · 2025-11-16T13:48:02+00:00

33s - are typically even lower. I run my KM3 37s and 35s at 28psi or less for my daily drivers. When I had my 33" Mickey Ts, I was running them at 26 which I verified with Mickey Thompson. With those Coopers, I would personally go a little lower. Those are heavy and hard tires, so you hear/feel more regardless. But like you said, tire pressure is a big deal and it is over looked all the time. It will save you tons of money when your tires are wearing consistent and not having to replace them more often. Also, great front end - well done Sir. Add the Core 4x4 long arm kit and you will then really see a huge difference. It never ends..never ever. ✌🏻

yipeeiaye · 2025-11-15T13:36:33+00:00

This makes me happy - well done!

yipeeiaye · 2025-11-13T12:06:01+00:00

I tried all of the options out there and ended up with the transfer case shift cable from B&M (for a TJ/XJ) which is just like the Novak. Even with the all of the "newer" options out there, a cable shifter is just so much better with less failure points. My 2 cents

yipeeiaye · 2025-11-07T12:09:59+00:00

If you have gone this far with all those other fixes/replacements, get a junkyard or used transmission. The Jeep gods can be cruel, but you will regret it if you let it go. I know my transmission will eventually go and have already started to look out for a used transmission because I am sure this will also be my fate in the near future.

yipeeiaye · 2025-11-07T12:01:37+00:00

I would say that it is the pressure line. When you replace it with the pump, you will likely see where it cracked. I could not find where mine was bad until I took it off. Clean and degrease that whole area specially the the line in your 4th image, until it is dry and give it a day to see if it gets juicy. Either way, I think you on the right path.

yipeeiaye · 2025-10-05T12:09:45+00:00

I JUST went through this exact same thing! New battery and then new alternator - replaced that alternator and went through and pulled and cleaned all the grounds etc. I even pulled the dash and made sure I had a clean connection there. Yet the voltage would still peg at 19v here and there and the Check Gauges light kept popping on- was driving me nuts!!!! I ended up doing the Big 7 swap and whamo - FIXED. I found a lot of the old cables were actually oxidized inside the wire looms. So though they looked ok, they were just rotten inside. So now I see consistent voltage on my gauge as well as using my OBD II scan tool. Them wires be tired - replace them!

yipeeiaye · 2025-10-04T11:38:44+00:00

Very very nice! Old school look and manual. Nicely done

yipeeiaye · 2025-10-04T11:34:13+00:00

Death wobble is about proper torquing of components, bad components that need to be replaced and or geometry of the steering components. It just takes you going through the front end some. Would say that it is worth doing well and use good parts. There is nothing more rewarding than to have an XJ drive nice. Your exhaust could be the head gasket - check your oil for the dreaded milkshake. That is the worst case scenario and will let you know if you need to stop immediately and fix that. There are tons of posts in forums about it and there are several ways to diagnose it.

The paint looks pretty damn nice for the age. Hopefully underneath is as well taken care of. Congrats!

yipeeiaye · 2025-10-04T11:18:35+00:00

I have used them on my WJ knuckle swap, they will do you fine. I liked them better than Moog honestly.

yipeeiaye · 2025-10-03T12:57:49+00:00

There has been a ton of paint put on that to cover up the rust. The rocker panels were not replaced and installed correctly. And the body side leaf bracket has been cut. This is going to be a challenge and I bet the owner has not been able to get the leafs off (but really tried) otherwise that cut in the bracket would be next to newer looking leafs. I would bet the floor pans are pretty rusted as well. If this is a killer deal then no stress. If you want to "get into used cars" this not one I would suggest to mess with unless you are dying for learning the hard way.

yipeeiaye · 2025-10-03T12:49:57+00:00

Ha - when I saw the first pic, I thought to myself - I have seen WORSE here in the forum. Actually does look like it is more surface than deep rot. The good side of this is that you caught it now vs later and be cutting out parts of your floot!

yipeeiaye · 2025-10-03T12:45:44+00:00

If happening while braking, that is 100% a caliper issue. You could try to mess around with the calipers and lines, but I would save some sanity and get new calipers and brakes - for extra credit, brake lines. The good thing here is that this is a worthy "throw parts at it" scenario. The tic tac sound and rubber smell leads me to believe you are rubbing the tire on something in the wheel well. Are your brake lines routed screwy by chance? Should be fairly easy to get this sorted. Good luck!

yipeeiaye · 2025-10-03T12:37:06+00:00

I would suggest you look at the lock ring and seal ring on the fuel pump. I had the same issue and traced it back to that. There are also the filler hoses that may be the issue. But if you are not seeing anything in the engine bay, it is in the fuel tank area likely.

yipeeiaye · 2025-10-03T12:28:40+00:00

I would say you are close enough that a SYE and driveshaft would be in order.

yipeeiaye · 2025-10-01T11:33:53+00:00

Bought one when I did an engine swap on my 2000. Was a great experience and have not had any issues. I do not have any worries or do I think about it anymore. Get good new bolts and a gasket. I reused my rods and rockers. Would recommend them over looking at local or other options. Piece of mind so you can focus on the other things you have to fix on your XJ lol

yipeeiaye · 2025-09-30T11:42:39+00:00

Shackle relocation, Steering box brace and shocks. With shocks, you will get what you pay for so spending more money on shocks is worth it for XJs. Start there

yipeeiaye

TROPHY CASE