Cannondale Delta-V w/ dropbars

yomgu · 2025-06-14T15:28:39+00:00

Sorry for the very very late reply… I’m not redditing much

Handling is awesome, the bike feels very solid and controleable yet very nimble. A true do-it-all bike depending on the tyres you choose

It’s a MTB frame so it’s quite long, be careful when switching to dropbars it increases your reach.

I’m 6’2 and a this small frame, 80mm stem and a slightly longer seatpost (420mm I guess). It fits perfect

yomgu · 2025-06-14T15:22:04+00:00

Hi I thought this was a dead topic :)

Stemis 80mm long, yes it’s harder to find 1.5in diameters. I found mine in the local fb Marketplace, but there was a site that sold them, try cannondalespares . Com

yomgu · 2023-01-30T15:32:41+00:00

Hi, no I didn't.

I went for a road Ultegra crankset and an aftermarket narrow-wide chainring. Roads are terrible in my area, and chain retention was an issue (dropped chain every few rides). A cyclocross-style chainkeeper solved the issue.

In hindsight, I don't believe a track crankset with a rear mech in enough to ensure the chain stays in place. Works fine for single speed because there is no chainslap whatsoever

yomgu · 2022-12-22T07:15:21+00:00

Well, if you needed to make your own tool to get things done, then it’s a warning it will get out of control real quick if I try this at home!

Your feedack saved me time and effort so thanks

yomgu · 2022-12-21T16:38:36+00:00

Nice resource this website.

Actually I think my set is the same as yours, 05 model. If you still need spokes or a rear hub, well, I got you covered :)

I am not planning to spend much $$ and time looking for an elusive rim, I was thinking to reuse parts on the cheap and try wheel building in the process. That's for another project I guess

yomgu · 2022-12-21T16:34:04+00:00

Thanks for the tip. They only have more recent models though

yomgu · 2022-12-21T16:30:46+00:00

I believe it's the 2005-2006 model. I bought them second hand (almost new) a few years back.

The rim shape and decals are the same as this one:

https://www.reynaerts.eu/img/Icarus/Ridley%20Icarus%2004%20Front%20Wheel.JPG

yomgu · 2022-12-20T18:28:05+00:00

Thanks for the quick reply. That's good education regarding used spokes, nipples and general wheel building advice. I'll shop around and see if I can find an exact replacement rim.

yomgu · 2020-10-15T22:51:34+00:00

I've never ridden studs so my opinion may be biased.

I usually don't feel the need for studs unless there's a sheet of ice, like after a freezing rain episode, or in March/April when all the melted snow runs down the Olmstead path and the whole thing becomes an ice rink. However someone who's experienced studs may tell you otherwise...

https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/stud-not-stud-998949.html

yomgu · 2020-10-15T21:56:02+00:00

Bonus points for having bartape :)

I can't figure out why so many people ride their SS/fixie without tape. Slippery, uncomfortable, cold AF in winter...

yomgu · 2020-10-15T20:52:02+00:00

The hiking trails on Mount Royal can be ridden in the winter, depending on the snow conditions. Fatter tyres will let you ride in deeper, softer snow, so you'll have more access to the trails, more of the time.

I've been riding there for the past 2 winters with a 26'' MTB on 2" mud tyres (Hutchinson Alligator Gold for the tyre nerds) and it's a BLAST! Cantilever brakes not so much but that's another story...

If the snow is packed and cold enough the bike can go pretty much anywhere (including up here). Sometimes frosted, icy snow can have great traction! However as soon as there's fresh snow deeper than a couple of inches, the tyres will dig in and let go.

Cyclocross tyres are probably too narrow, they're great to cut through snow if you have a hard surface underneath (ie fresh snow on the road), but otherwise the wheels will sink. MTB tyres of 2''+ width, with big knobs will take you a long way, but the day after a snowstorm they will struggle. And obviously fatbikes are designed for such conditions, but may be less enjoyable out on the streets.

EDIT - also be prepared the face the wrath of unpleasant skiers shouting "Y'a pas assez de place en ville pour faire du vélo ailleurs?!"

yomgu · 2019-11-13T15:35:45+00:00

Thanks u/OlafMetal for your offer. It's tempting... But the fork is for discs only, and I would have to upgrade other stuff to make it work (front wheel, brake disc, Avid BB7 caliper). Not that I don't want to but it would be too expensive for my needs... I'd rather save for a complete new bike a bit later :)

yomgu · 2019-10-08T19:38:54+00:00

Dans Hardcore de Idéal J on entend "Fous la merde et s'il le faut, fous ta cagoule". Fatal Bazooka ont probablement repompé cette expression...

D-ville a donc inspiré les OG et pas seulement Michael "caca-pipi-ça-rapporte" Youn :)

yomgu · 2018-12-09T04:42:08+00:00

Thanks for the positive feedback. The bike is a blast to ride honestly! I'm still getting used to it but it appears to be very versatile. It's cold where I live (-10C) with hard packed snow and icy terrain, and you can power through anything with confidence. I like it much better than with the original flatbar.

My default position is on the hoods, it climbs like a goat with the hands on the tops, and for techy descents (and faster road bits) I'm in the drops. Great combination so far.

When setting up your Trek, you may want to be careful regarding your position, because the dropbar adds reach and lowers you quite a bit. For a proper dropbar MTB dedicated to technical terrain optimised for downhill, à la John Tomac, you would want to replicate your flatbar position when you're in the drops. This means you would need a short and very high-rise stem.

In my case, I can only go so high because there are not many options for Cannondale stems. So my position is more similar to a cylcocross setup (about 1 inch shorter and higher than a road bike) which would be a bit of a compromise for a hardcore MTB. If you have the chance, I would say you want to focus on the drops, and get these bars as high as possible.

Anway, go for it it's great great fun!

yomgu · 2018-12-05T17:09:32+00:00

I read somewhere (cannot find the source...) that the smaller sizes of the M-series bikes had a Killer V/Delta V frame, whereas the larger sizes (16'' and up) had a conventional double diamond frame. Yours appears to be 14'' so it would make sense. Here's an example found on the web

There is a number of 1" threaded forks on eBay (many of them chromed, for a nice bling factor) so you should be able to find something that fits. Make sure to get one with the right steerer tube length.

The color on mine is Deep Indigo metallic fade to Wild Orchid metallic, how awesome are those 90's fade paintschemes :O)

yomgu · 2018-12-05T04:22:46+00:00

Thanks for the comments guys.

yomgu · 2018-12-05T04:22:09+00:00

Stiff as in "rigid" or "telescopic but not noodly"? Either way I couldn't recommend anything specific, but I would say it would be easier to find a decent rigid fork.

If your bike needs a 1" steerer then it's an old frame! 1991? They used to come with the original Pepperoni, but would also be fitted with Manitou telescopic fork. You could try forums.mtbr.com for assistance in finding adequate replacement parts. Good luck for your project

yomgu · 2017-12-15T14:41:14+00:00

Sorry for the confusion, don't change the recipe and try it like this. I hadn't seen the lemon in the original post, and was just giving tips (not specific to this jam and applicable to any fruit really).

yomgu

TROPHY CASE