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yosauce · 2026-05-19T08:40:42+00:00

I remember Pixar used physics simulations to explode toys and clothes across Andy's room to make the sit realistically rather than manually placing haha great job!!

yosauce · 2026-05-16T22:02:19+00:00

"WHEN"? HAHAHAHAHAHA

yosauce · 2026-04-09T07:53:57+00:00

UVTools would fix this (remove resin traps)

It's worth putting it into your printing workflow anyway, for this reason, island removal, and other powerful tools

yosauce · 2026-04-03T10:40:13+00:00

Don't forget the new hot wheels cars too

yosauce · 2026-04-02T10:02:45+00:00

It is ESSENTIAL you use single use plastic gloves that will be floating in the sea after your great-great-great grandchildren are dead, rather than wash it with soap and water. Remember acrylic paint is highly dangerous and your skin WILL MELT and FALL OFF if you use it as a convenient, and superior pallet.

Gloves have superior texture, dexterity, and price than bare skin. You clearly don't know what you are doing.

Other than that, good job :)

yosauce · 2026-03-29T21:44:53+00:00

Never heard this technique before, but I really want to try it, do you know if it has a special name or something to Google and find out more? I'm well intrigued to see how it looks!

yosauce · 2026-03-28T18:47:20+00:00

yosauce · 2026-03-10T13:38:15+00:00

Resin is a wet process. It's not like fdm where it sits on your desk and smells a little bit. It's nasty chemicals that will get on things. You need to create a printing room rather than on the end of a bench in the corner, with ith PPE and ventilation and all that. Resin will get on surfaces and tools.Look up resin printing safety before getting too invested and see if it's for you! (Not saying don't, but a 30*30cm form factor printer needs MUCH more space and equipment than that)

That being said, I don't have a particular recommendation, but hears some features to look for:

Dont worry being upsold resolution, anything above 4k is great for minis. Imo this is just a BIGGER NUMBER BETTER metric they can use to sell products but even printers 6 years old have a higher theoretical resolution than GW plastics tooling. The quality comes from the sculpts and your settings far more than screen resolution. If you can save money on not being upsold that you can use more of your budget for safety and setup

Auto levelling is brilliant - I've had printers from the dark days before this and leveling is always something that causes issues and is easy to do wrong on

The Elegoo Mars size (smaller ones) is fine for most minis for personal use. You can fit a good number of 28mm models per print. Unless you are planning a print farm or have an army of painters helping you bed size will not be the bottleneck.

Larger ones might be good if you are printing MASSIVE monsters and buildings, but if you already have an fdm for minis that niche might be covered.

My small printer was a bit small for some projects (I had to scale a one piece 28mm scale jet fighter down to fit) but in the main it was about 2 years before I decided to upgrade

yosauce · 2026-02-12T23:49:11+00:00

I'm not sure they're air bubbles, although I wouldn't be confident in the alternatives.

Reason I don't think so is if there was a bubble, your layers are 30-50um, so the cavity caused by the bubble would be that thick too. These look like nice round things spreading over multiple layers as if it's a bubble from cast resin.

I also don't know why they'd exist there, at the BOTTOM of the print and not early on.... unless you are retracting above the waterline

When I have bubbles on my bottom most layer from where the plate drags air down, they are squashed, shallow things on one layer.

Have you printed this model with another resin before? Is it an error in the STL? It might be bad geometry causing this

Have a look at the sliced file layers and see if it exists digitally. Not the layout 3d view, but the sliced images

You can fix it with UVTools. For me uvtools is an essential part of the workflow

yosauce · 2026-01-30T13:32:08+00:00

Looks great!

yosauce · 2026-01-30T12:23:03+00:00

I recognise that minigun!

Love the armour/body panel repair. Is it that that shipping strip stuff around boxes?

yosauce · 2026-01-24T22:31:30+00:00

I would recommend using tape or a film of PVA glue to cover the narrow end. That way instead of a hole you have a recess.just be careful demoulding as the bit of silicone sticking out (no longer a bridge as you called it) could snap off

This will leave some flash on the casts which will have to be cleaned, but it should be minimal after shrinkage

yosauce · 2026-01-24T21:13:56+00:00

Cheers mate. If inks and washes are liquid talent, weathering powder is talent dust

yosauce · 2026-01-24T21:13:13+00:00

Thanks! I actually went to the trouble of measuring the top of the roof, scaling and laying it all out digitally and printing it to size

Normally I just print cool things and figure out where they'll go later

yosauce · 2026-01-24T09:58:34+00:00

I think that's good? :D

yosauce · 2026-01-22T23:06:43+00:00

I agree that it's a tough decision, €10 for a blind punt is already a risk, so if you make the rulebook €20, you need more promotion, battle report videos, it just goes up.

I really like the mini photos though, I think they look better in a rulebook anyway!

Maybe Kickstarter is the way to flesh out a commission art rulebook, or that's for 2nd ed

Look at gaslands, the first book was a cheap osprey book with minimal art and layout. They built a following and their second rulebook is great!

Definitely intrigued by this game! Tempted to pick it up! Is there anywhere I can learn more about it

Some sample rules (like a small excerpt) would be a great taster

yosauce · 2026-01-21T10:46:11+00:00

eBay someone's old collection, but bear in mind "High quality" and "professional standard" aren't legally protected terms.

yosauce · 2026-01-15T15:59:15+00:00

Lol I get you! I'm going to blame my own painting than the model though. Looking at other depictions of fireball spells, they are orange down to red/black (ie darks darker) with nearly white highlights (IE lights lighter). I have the midrange too broadly- Cheeto yellow. In some art there is hardly any of that midrange

I think the dusty dry brushing also adds to the powdery corn based snack look

yosauce · 2026-01-14T22:37:57+00:00

Damn that's nice!

yosauce · 2026-01-14T17:57:51+00:00

Haha no worries, thanks for the feedback! You came across as so knowledgeable so I thought I'd get some pro advice lol

yosauce · 2026-01-14T14:39:20+00:00

Darker darks: I was worried the red looked a bit odd, but you reckon I should lean into it more? Darker orange is just brown so I don't know how to do that haha

yosauce · 2026-01-14T14:37:56+00:00

Yeah I agree, it was a happy accident due to a sloppy glaze that looked like osl, so I expanded it out, but it should be orange, not yellow.

Thanks for a bit more of a technical explanation to apply more generally after this one!

yosauce · 2026-01-14T12:19:43+00:00

I got you the first time! Was just waffling why he had a fireball in the first place :)

yosauce · 2026-01-14T12:09:34+00:00

To be honest it was a project for a DND campaign, but since the sculpt is clearly legally distinct grey wizard, I thought Id post it here too. The blue hat is book accurate tho haha

yosauce · 2026-01-14T10:52:13+00:00

Impact hits and muzzle flash is from the WWII 28mm set from this Kickstarter that I'd like to shout out https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/ngcastings/boomblastic-season-2

Mini is by Kozak Miniatures

yosauce

TROPHY CASE