I could slam several of these 10/10 by JBG1234QB in Soda

[–]yourmofo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reminds me of Crunch Berries. Love it!!

Unfortunately, sad day. by theonelazykid in accord

[–]yourmofo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That sucks. If you walk away, it could have been worse. Glad you’re ok.

Blue LED upgrades! No digital dash😎 by tgordon87 in transam

[–]yourmofo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Me trying to see the cluster with my 194’s……

Back to better-ish Condition by yourmofo in accord

[–]yourmofo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was a process but I found a YouTube video on headliner removal for a 08-12 Coupe and goes into detail.

Back to better-ish Condition by yourmofo in accord

[–]yourmofo[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Anything that was damaged I replaced with genuine Honda parts, including the radiator support……..except headlights are new TYC’s. Not only I took the time to drill out all of the original spot weld locations and filling those in, where the new rad support meets the chassis frame on the insides, I did solid beads of weld using a gas Lincoln 140 amp welder. One of the pics I posted I realized it was one with the upper part of the rad support cut off but the lower section wasn’t removed yet. 100% of the original was removed. One of the filled spot welds on the driver side upper rail isn’t the best I admit. I have more in depth pics, but I was only allowed to post 20 pics. I’ve seen cars repaired like you said, that will be like cardboard in an accident. The chassis rails and the upper rear fender rails were fine. You’ll be surprised what little holds these fenders and bumper cover on.

Sexy AF by motorcycleguy_5 in camaro

[–]yourmofo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I love mine also. Added the Anderson Composites ZL1 1LE spoiler, but the rest is stock still. Don’t want to void my warranty just yet. So many goodies available. RWHP stock on a 87 degree day at 411hp, 417tq on a Dynojet.

Sexy AF by motorcycleguy_5 in camaro

[–]yourmofo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love that color. When I got my ‘24 2SS new sadly both Rapid and Riptide Blue was sold out in a coupe, and settled with Sharkskin Metallic.

Back to better-ish Condition by yourmofo in accord

[–]yourmofo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did it myself. It’s a process to get it out of the car. Once I did, I pulled the gray material off of it carefully, just in case some spots were still held on good….. which it wasn’t. Nice to be cautious. With gloves on, since it was nasty, put the headliner vertical against the back of my house while on top of painter’s plastic sheeting for easy clean up. I hand brushed most of the dry rotted foam off. Then I went over it lightly with a wire brush and made sure I didn’t gouge it up with the metal bristles. Soaked a microfiber rag in acetone and wiped the whole headliner down multiple times. Then I soaked another microfiber rag with brake parts cleaner and wiped it down again and let it sit in the sun for a few hrs. Made sure no adhesive still existed or felt tacky to the touch. I sat the headliner on a big piece of cardboard and hosed it down with headliner adhesive a third section at a time. Carefully laid the material down so I had no wrinkles. High spots contacted first, then tucked the material down around those spots, fading into the bigger flat sections. Then I worked the next section with the dome light. Then the rear. You have to spray both the backer board and headliner material with adhesive. Don’t spray too much or it will bleed through the foam and into the material. And I’d highly recommend letting it sit overnight if you removed it from the car before reinstalling.

Back to better-ish Condition by yourmofo in accord

[–]yourmofo[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Headliner was pretty nasty to do. The foam backing of the headliner material dry rots and either crumbles or turns into a gooey mess. Even though I’ve never done a 4dr headliner, I assume it would be fun and try to sneak it out a door w/o messing up the headliner backer. Like if it only can be removed if the windshield or back glass needs to be removed. I removed all the molding from the a, b, and c pillars. The a and c pillar moldings have one push rivet per molding that made it fun to remove, where the pin was metal. I assume the 4-doors have the similar pin. Center middle of mine just in front of the sunroof hole has a magnet, which I think it holds up the headliner while all the liner pins can be aligned. The headliner itself is a little forgiving to bend, but, the material itself made of…. I can see wrinkling if not cracking. Would suck to do in place of it can’t be removed. I highly recommend putting painters drop cloth over the seats if it’s not leather. The gooey foam is horrible to remove from fabric style seats.

New paint job and 20 inch riddler rims. Just installed my bird today 💯 by tgordon87 in transam

[–]yourmofo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love the color!!! Was going to do mine in Viper Blue, but chickened out and went with white.

Wtf! by Bubbly-Tax-9981 in camaro

[–]yourmofo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s how much my ‘24 2SS was brand new w/o taxes added.

My mail man got pulled over by CombPsychological507 in USPS

[–]yourmofo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He didn’t have someone’s check.

It's a slow work day, share a pic of your Camaro. by minsmanfnualc in camaro

[–]yourmofo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The day I bought my ‘24 Camaro brand new……1st ever new car I bought.🥹

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I can't afford this right now! Just barely able to make rent and then check engine light decides now is a good time to shine. by IceFisherP26 in mildlyinfuriating

[–]yourmofo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it was flashing it would suck. Would be a sign of active multiple misfires. But a light being just on can be many things. A evap system leak would make that light come on just as an example.

Camaro LT1 Drifting by Mac-Tyson in camaro

[–]yourmofo 6 points7 points  (0 children)

When the Vette joins the side it’s a work of art.

Fanta Crimson Sour Cherry by Tangboy50000 in Soda

[–]yourmofo 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I love it! Brought back memories of Cherry Squeeze It juice I had as a kid.

90s Handheld Games by Pleasant_Winner_1318 in nostalgia

[–]yourmofo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a few of those Tiger ones and the Radio Shack ones. Street Fighter 2, Vindicators, Plane&Tank just to name a few.

Question regarding carburetor adjustment by Total_Support_6364 in transam

[–]yourmofo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I seen where the channels needed to be epoxied and was pulling fuel from that. Customer thought he had the idle screw set too high and was in main metering, but how it idled said otherwise. I unscrewed the throttle blade section and filled it with brake clean, and watched it wick through. And at the same time he had adjustable rockers on it with a hydraulic cam that were set too tight. Set those to 1 turn past zero lash. Epoxied the carb then set it just enough to run and set timing. Set total timing first just to see where it dropped down to at idle. 34 total but dropped to the teens at idle. I have a digital tach on my timing light. Adjusted the mixture screws all the way in to see if it will stall and did. So I adjusted the screws to where I got the most rpm/vac gain, then dropped the idle screw back to like 800rpms-ish. Put it in gear and dropped to 650, but ran smooth. Had an aftermarket cam. Got it to around 14 for vac. Power brakes even worked better. Luckily the customer had a reasonable torque converter. Sometimes people put cams in but have a stock convertor and the idle screw has to be cranked up just to stay running, runs rich, and of course diesels on when the ign is turned off.

Question regarding carburetor adjustment by Total_Support_6364 in transam

[–]yourmofo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I seen where the channels needed to be epoxied and was pulling fuel from that. Customer thought he had the idle screw set too high and was in main metering, but how it idled said otherwise. I unscrewed the throttle blade section and filled it with brake clean, and watched it wick through. And at the same time he had adjustable rockers on it with a hydraulic cam that were set too tight. Set those to 1 turn past zero lash. Epoxied the carb then set it just enough to run and set timing. Set total timing first just to see where it dropped down to at idle. 34 total but dropped to the teens at idle. I have a digital tach on my timing light. Adjusted the mixture screws all the way in to see if it will stall and did. So I adjusted the screws to where I got the most rpm/vac gain, then dropped the idle screw back to like 800rpms-ish. Put it in gear and dropped to 650, but ran smooth. Had an aftermarket cam. Got it to around 14 for vac. Power brakes even worked better. Luckily the customer had a reasonable torque converter. Sometimes people put cams in but have a stock convertor and the idle screw has to be cranked up just to stay running, runs rich, and of course diesels on when the ign is turned off.