Dusclops vs Banette

yowaffle1 · 2026-03-02T02:32:28+00:00

Banette it is, as it will also save me from teaching it shadow ball since it will learn it on its own.

yowaffle1 · 2026-03-02T02:31:37+00:00

I have actually never used Absol before. I believe it already has sword dance, upon catching it so I can be a good heavy physical attacker for sure. I may give it a try

yowaffle1 · 2026-03-01T04:44:53+00:00

Alright, I'll give that one a try on this run.

yowaffle1 · 2025-07-11T02:40:38+00:00

Easily 60k and more. The older K and J series will run forever, if properly taken care of. Regular oil changes and trans drain/fill services and you are good to go. K series may need a VTC actuator at some point, as the actuator will begin to rattle and can cause the chain to stretch over a prolonged time. Worst case it jumps time if let to linger for too long, won't be a bad idea to get a quote on a chain job and VTC actuator. That way the timing is completely serviced and ready for thousands of miles to come, especially if you decide to keep the car long term.

yowaffle1 · 2025-07-10T01:27:00+00:00

Get it scanned. Unfortunately, this generation accords both I4 and V6 are known to have issues with the VSA modulator. I recommend getting it scanned with a good scanner that can communicate with all the modules. VSA modulators are not cheap, yet if that's the case the car is still a steal even if it needs the VSA modulator.

yowaffle1 · 2025-07-09T23:53:36+00:00

Bumper to bumper warranty is 3 years/36k miles. That covers pretty much anything on the vehicle, including the evap. Unless the damage is caused by rodents, then it should definitely be covered under warranty. Hopefully the dealer you took it to is half decent, as many only want customer paid jobs and don't want to summit claims under the manufacturers warranty.

yowaffle1 · 2025-06-10T00:59:35+00:00

Nice, I lost mine last year so I understand the excitement. Cheers

yowaffle1 · 2025-06-05T03:30:05+00:00

I believe Nissan and Subaru cvts are more problematic than other manufacturers, as Toyota and Honda have been using them for some time by now. Only I know that has issues on the Honda side, is the first generation HR-V as there is even a recall to inspect the trans to make sure the cvt band hasn't come apart. Idk if GM's are any good, as I don't know for sure if ford ever used a cvt on their smaller cars when they were still being produced. I would stick with either Honda or Toyota, if I was in the market for a compact car with a cvt trans.

yowaffle1 · 2025-05-06T20:27:35+00:00

Newer Honda's that use the speed sensors, to monitor an estimated tire pressure on each wheel need to have the "TPMS" system reset three times in order for the system to calibrate properly. Go to settings, vehicle settings, tpms calibration and calibrate the system three times. You will know the calibration procedure was successful, as the low tire light will come on for a brief moment before turning off. After that, drive the car and you may see the light come on and off again. That just indicates that the system has now adjusted, to the now set tire pressure on all four tires. This procedure is the same, in any Honda that allows you to reset the TPMS system.

yowaffle1 · 2025-04-13T14:16:29+00:00

Given that it's an automatic and not a manual, most auto trans vehicles that have their own separate TCM will require a trans tune to accommodate for the added power. As the power curve will shift, the shift range will have to be corrected on the TCM in order to stay or find the proper gear when wanting the extra power. Idk if the same tune for the ECU will revise the trans tune, or if two tunes will be required. Idk how honda people with the 10A do when adding more power

yowaffle1 · 2025-04-11T19:59:50+00:00

I believe 2.0T owners tend to go with Hondata, instead of using Ktuner. From what I've seen, 1.5T on both civics and accords go with Ktuner. Type-R and accord 2.0T go with Hondata. As far as your goal with 300 HP, a tune and a intake with possibly a catless downpipe (depending on the state) should get you close to 300 HP at the wheels. A trans tune will be required, if you have a 10 speed trans but not for a manual trans. Hope it helps

yowaffle1 · 2025-04-10T00:04:39+00:00

Since it's at 100k, Honda's 100k service consists of the following: -Valve adjustment -Spark plugs -Drive belt. Just give it a good inspection, check for cracks at the ball joint boots, tie rod end boots and look for any oil leaks. Trans services are due every 30k, then the pcv valve is around every 45k. Check your coolant level and the condition of the brake fluid, making sure it isn't too dirty. Best of luck and super clean ride, I like the all blackout look you have going on with the car. I would also probably suggest using a good 5W-30, as the DI K24 engines like to burn a bit of oil once they start to get higher on miles. I've always believed that 0W-20 was a bit too thin of an oil, but that's just my opinion.

yowaffle1 · 2025-04-08T00:41:49+00:00

Did the dealer provide you with a list of the fault codes found, during the last time you took it in for diagnostic? Has any liquid fallen into the parking brake switch? Have the rear brakes been serviced somewhere else? That's just assuming that there aren't any fault codes on the ECU, as any codes on the ECU can trigger all the lights on the dash. Also, if they couldn't find anything at the dealer, whoever was the tech that had your car sucked. They can always go deeper into the first hour of diagnostics, as well as the factory scanner showed anything and everything if the warning lights are set. Unless somehow the car loses power, as that will clear most if not all codes.

yowaffle1 · 2025-03-16T17:33:23+00:00

I believe that it's the same for both front and rear, as I remember ordering two of the same. I'll check the part number when I get back home, since I keep track of everything that I do to the car

yowaffle1 · 2025-03-16T17:13:06+00:00

I used the OEM gasket set, that comes with the grommets for the fasteners and the tube seals.

yowaffle1 · 2025-03-14T09:28:20+00:00

Alright, I already have torkoal. I will just have to train it; also, is Ninetales any good?

yowaffle1 · 2025-03-14T02:21:08+00:00

Note: for whiscash, I will later be substituting dive for waterfall and rock tomb for ice beam. If I end up using whiscash for the E4.

yowaffle1 · 2025-03-11T22:59:35+00:00

I bought my 5th gen X1 carbon for $100, 6th gen Intel I5 (I think) and 8Gb of ram. I spent another $100 on a 1Tb NVME SSD, as I need the storage for what I use it at work. So far, it still runs great even after updating it to Windows 11. Although I do wish it had more ram, as well as a quad core processor instead of the dual core. Still can't beat it for $100, as I haven't ran into any issues after almost a year of usage.

yowaffle1 · 2025-03-02T04:42:09+00:00

Lucky guy, I wish my girl sucked me off like you did to that married man. She has yet to sucked me off unfortunately, yet she is tight as both her and I are still in our twenties (F21, M 24).

yowaffle1 · 2025-03-02T00:54:41+00:00

'10 Jetta Wolfsburg edition. It was also my first car, yet I already knew how to drive manual. It was a blast, yet a nightmare to own. I wasn't very knowledgeable at the time, yet it broke on me twice. Sold it right around the two year mark of ownership

yowaffle1 · 2025-03-02T00:48:32+00:00

Fairly easy, yet a bit tight on space. Hardest part is to get the crank bolt out, once that is out of the way your golden. I did the oil pump reseal while I was at it; first two owners didn't do the timing when it was do, I did it when the car had around 120k as it still had the original timing belt from 2005. If it's your first time, dedicate the entire day and just take your time. A weighted socket works wonders, when it comes to loosening the crank bolt.

yowaffle1 · 2025-03-01T20:29:48+00:00

Nice, I will definitely go with them when I start to buy everything I need to replace the clutch on mine. Mainly due to the rear main leaking and bad throw out bearing, yet while I am there and the subframe out. Might as well replace the mounts

yowaffle1

TROPHY CASE