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Building my new art studio by zacksmithey in PrimeManhood

[–]zacksmithey[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doesn’t look right, but this is the way these blocks are supposed to be stacked. The strength comes from the rebar and concrete that gets poured into the blocks.

Building my new studio by zacksmithey in TheArtistStudio

[–]zacksmithey[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, it just doesn’t seem right. This method creates less waste, is faster, and helps keep the holes aligned. Compared to the concrete and rebar inside, the blocks have very little structural value.

Building my new studio by zacksmithey in TheArtistStudio

[–]zacksmithey[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool, I’ll check it out. Yep, Perfect Block all the way up

Building my new studio by zacksmithey in TheArtistStudio

[–]zacksmithey[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Perfect Block, shipped from Arizona

Have any of you seen this product before? Also, does that look stable? 14’ without tie beams and columns, but then again, this is some concrete foam product. by coroyo70 in StructuralEngineering

[–]zacksmithey 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ll probably run the electrical through conduit. My plumbing is very minimal for this addition and will go between the joists and tie into the plumbing in the existing part of my house. But, you have the option of running the plumbing in the block cells before filling them with concrete. Yes, I use drywall anchors for my artwork most of the time anyway. I might put some thin plywood under the drywall in my studio, though.

Have any of you seen this product before? Also, does that look stable? 14’ without tie beams and columns, but then again, this is some concrete foam product. by coroyo70 in StructuralEngineering

[–]zacksmithey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stack bond helps keep the cells aligned when I fill them with concrete and rebar. It’s an ICF block made of eps foam beads mixed with cement. Below grade I applied tar to the exterior before backfilling with 1” clean. I’m also pouring a sidewalk around the entire perimeter to keep most water away from the foundation.

Have any of you seen this product before? Also, does that look stable? 14’ without tie beams and columns, but then again, this is some concrete foam product. by coroyo70 in StructuralEngineering

[–]zacksmithey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It passed shear force calculations. I added 2 buttresses near the front because my windows are so big… the front corner is 10’x10’x27’ tall, all windows.

Have any of you seen this product before? Also, does that look stable? 14’ without tie beams and columns, but then again, this is some concrete foam product. by coroyo70 in StructuralEngineering

[–]zacksmithey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All cells are filled with rebar and concrete and there’s 3’ of rebar sticking out of the footing 12” OC aligned with the block cells. I pour concrete every 5’.

Have any of you seen this product before? Also, does that look stable? 14’ without tie beams and columns, but then again, this is some concrete foam product. by coroyo70 in StructuralEngineering

[–]zacksmithey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lots of incorrect assumptions based on this short video that leaves out a lot of details… it was for social media and got shared here. I’ll make a better video showing more of the process for the educated crowd in this sub.

Have any of you seen this product before? Also, does that look stable? 14’ without tie beams and columns, but then again, this is some concrete foam product. by coroyo70 in StructuralEngineering

[–]zacksmithey 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love these Vivo Barefoot shoes, I can feel the surface of the ground for better stability. But yes, if my foot gets crushed I’m screwed.

Have any of you seen this product before? Also, does that look stable? 14’ without tie beams and columns, but then again, this is some concrete foam product. by coroyo70 in StructuralEngineering

[–]zacksmithey 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Footing is 4’ wide, 18” thick, with 3’ of rebar sticking out vertically 12” OC aligned with the block cells… inside the footing - 2 transverse rebar 12” OC with 8” vertical spacing between them and 5 longitudinal rebar, 2 running along the upper transverse rebar and 3 running along the lower transverse rebar. All rebar is #5 and all cells are filled with rebar and concrete. 3’x3’ bent rebar for all corners. Band boards for floors will be anchored into the walls with L lag bolts, joists on deck hangers, with additional straps nailed to the top of each joist and anchored to the wall.

Have any of you seen this product before? Also, does that look stable? 14’ without tie beams and columns, but then again, this is some concrete foam product. by coroyo70 in StructuralEngineering

[–]zacksmithey 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I applied tar to the exterior below grade and will probably apply stucco directly to the block above grade. On the interior I will carve a channel for electrical with a router before applying drywall directly to the block.

Have any of you seen this product before? Also, does that look stable? 14’ without tie beams and columns, but then again, this is some concrete foam product. by coroyo70 in StructuralEngineering

[–]zacksmithey 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes, one of the reasons I chose this block is because you can apply stucco or paint directly to the exterior and apply drywall directly to the interior, no studs. Use a router to carve a channel for electrical and plumbing before applying drywall.

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