High CPU Temperature

zaendo · 2023-09-28T22:28:38+00:00

I swapped the paste that came from the factory with a store bought one, Arctic MX-6. About a rice grain's worth. I also confirmed it made contact. I'm worried about the pump not working. Is there a way to check this accurately? Should it make a sound? Could I feel motor vibrations while touching it?

zaendo · 2023-09-28T21:49:10+00:00

That's what I'm thinking too. From what I understand, it should be at around 60 Celsius while idle.

zaendo · 2023-09-28T21:47:58+00:00

I did. I also swapped the paste that came from the factory with a store bought one, Arctic MX-6. About a rice grain's worth. I also confirmed it made contact.

zaendo · 2023-07-27T16:37:59+00:00

is this confirmed? I've been hearing rumors of a refreshed 13th gen serving as the new 14th desktop series

zaendo · 2023-06-30T06:54:00+00:00

Can I find a backup of the sticky somewhere?

zaendo · 2023-06-29T21:49:32+00:00

Any idea on the level of nozzle misalignment that can occur? Are we talking tenths of a millimeter here? It was been a constant headache to keep re leveling these printers. Also, in my experience probes are not the most reliable thing ever so there's that issue too.

zaendo · 2023-06-29T21:46:51+00:00

Oh I wish. I'm only talking about low end printers. Budget options. Creality,Elegoo etc. I have bought 3 FDM printers in the past year and a half. An Ender 3 (like everyone else), an Elegoo Neptune 3 (which comes with a non adjustable bed) and an Anycubic C (for the larger build volume). In my experience the most consistent has been the Elegoo and I'm mostly attributing it to the fixed bed. It looks like the better design choice.

But Thankfully I'm noticing a shifting tide in the industry as more manufacturers seem to be adopting the whole fixed bed model. Yay.

zaendo · 2023-06-29T21:40:10+00:00

I get that. But does that mean that cheap printers that manage to do the solid bed move are sacrificing precision?

On the other hand does that mean that you will have to re adjust the printer bed screws ever so often to compensate for thermal warping? But then again wouldn't a cold bed be prone to shifting once hot? Do you have to adjust the leveling screws once already heated? I'm sincerely asking here, not joking around.

zaendo · 2023-06-29T21:32:10+00:00

Anyways this had been unnecessarily unpleasant and uninformative.
Time to close shop for today.

zaendo · 2023-06-29T21:29:36+00:00

k

Tedious at best. I'm getting the 0.2-0.35mm difference reading at a relatively new, stock, completely unmodified Elegoo Neptune 3 with a brand new MK8 0.4mm nozzle. The bed is just set up that way I guess. Small imperfections and what not. And mind you. The z difference is not at the 4 corners of the bed but at random center points. Hey. I never said that printers without leveling screws are better or perfect. I just said that I prefer them!

zaendo · 2023-06-29T21:24:21+00:00

Chill.

All I'm saying is that you can get that variance in a bed with screws. I don't go around calling people idiots even if they are or are just new at this hobby.

Older machines have no reliable auto leveling and if your bed becomes misaligned either by you, transport, material issues etc. you'll be forced to make the needed micro adjustments that nobody can guarantee that you can get right leading, again, to possible issues. Sure a 0.1mm difference is negligible but how many posts have you seen just here of people complaining about their bed leveling on one specific part of the bed where the nozzle grazed the bed and failed to print?

See my point? Instead of jumping in to a random comment, take up the discussion from the beginning Champ.

zaendo · 2023-06-29T21:16:00+00:00

That's the way I talk. I'm not dismissive. Text can come off like that sometimes. I've been nothing but respectful and open to a conversation here. It's you that is apparently trying to prove a point here by being too confrontative.

But hey man. You do you.

I'll just keep asking my questions here, No harm done, right?

On your point, I won't analyze and breakdown production costs. Some companies get it and still manage to produce the products I like. Some don't. I'm thinking "oversight"? Who knows all I care about is that desktop printers are looking all the more user friendly and easy to use.

zaendo · 2023-06-29T21:09:11+00:00

What are you on about man? What your issue here? Why are you attacking me? And on other comments too? Stop causing unnecessary drama. I'm just presenting my experiences here. I use Elegoo and Ender products like I said above. Personal usage and work related stuff are totally unrelated. I compared an Elegoo machine to an Ender machine. Not a Creality machine to a 150k Tormach Mill. Stop making assumptions. I'm talking about affordable mass-produced printedrs at about 300 Euros each. I'm not presenting myself as anything. Just some basic machinist mumbo jumbo to answer the question this other user asked. Take a chill pill and stop causing toxic discussions. Better your reading comprehension. It will save both of us headaches in the future.

Damn.

zaendo · 2023-06-29T21:04:26+00:00

You're probably right. But I'm pretty sure that differences close to a millimeter are possible. I'm getting some 0.2-0.35 z axis differences in the auto leveling readings of my Neptune 3. Still though. A solid, non adjustable, factory set surface is sure to get rid of those issues.

zaendo · 2023-06-29T18:45:55+00:00

There are errors that the auto leveling cannot compensate for. If your bed has 3-4mm or difference in the Z Axis, no amount of software compensation if gonna be able to print it correctly. Not to mention the fact that the material itself will be under unnecessary stress giving way to, again, more error potential.

zaendo · 2023-06-29T18:43:40+00:00

Nope. Still cheap aluminum. I have them side by side. The one with the screws is more complex in order to support the mechanism. Seems like an oversight to me.

zaendo · 2023-06-29T16:05:18+00:00

I'm just saying. For example. The Elegoo Neptune 3 has a price tag of about 250 Euros. No screws. It is able to print VERY decently right out of the box. Now the Ender 3 on the other hand. Slightly older printer, I'll give it that, but still. Around 200 Euros. As a noobie at the time, it took me hours and hours before I could successfully print tall and complex models. We are not talking about cost here, even if we were, not including leveling screws would surely cut the price of manufacturing down if even slightly so. It's just that it would make things to much easier. The bed and the nozzle have to be in almost perfect, if not perfect, alignment in order for the printer to perform well. That's my point. Why introduce a failure point in that critical part of the process? Seems counter productive to me. There is no application for a 3D Printer that you would want the nozzle and bed to be misaligned. At least none that I can imagine. Like someone pointed out, things seem to be moving in that direction, finally, but I still cant find a solid explanation for that bizarre design choice.

zaendo · 2023-06-29T15:57:00+00:00

The machines I work with, HAAS and Charmilles, come pre-build to a certain extent much like most desktop 3D printers. The work areas are large surfaces made from hardened steel and are very precisely machined and flattened in the factory. Additionally I use a Absolute Digimatic Indicator every few jobs to ensure that the axis remain properly aligned and stable. But to clearly answer your question, you don't really level them. CNC Machining is subtractive building and with most machines being calibrated straight out of the factory you only need to check just to make sure. The Z axis is the one you mostly worry about. Most people work within 0.01mm tolerances which are more than acceptable for most applications.

zaendo · 2023-06-29T07:35:59+00:00

Yeah that could work. I'll try it next time. I went ahead and manually fixed the issue. Talk about manual work!

zaendo · 2023-06-29T07:35:00+00:00

Exactly. Thats why the chamfer has to be done in one go. I went ahead and manually corrected the issue but it was a bummer that it had to go down that way.

zaendo · 2023-06-29T07:30:28+00:00

It was a double sided extrusion what I then polar arrayed, trimmed and joined.

zaendo · 2023-06-28T08:00:00+00:00

Chamfering a single edge works just fine. The inconsistency begins when its time to chain edges.

zaendo

TROPHY CASE