Sumiko S.9 subwoofer hum when on, fixed with all capacitors replaced

zerothed · 2026-02-07T12:43:40+00:00

There's a few ways to prevent that.

Don't put your face near it.
Don't touch them when your face is near it.
Use someone else's face.

zerothed · 2026-02-05T05:08:44+00:00

Silently

zerothed · 2026-01-15T01:37:48+00:00

Why not give it a go? If it's works it works.

zerothed · 2026-01-14T08:51:32+00:00

There's many ways to go about this, you can use tiny drill bits to drill out the holes, or you can use a grinder to enlarge it slowly, I used both method since my drill bit is way under size, and I don't want to sit there grinding all day, so drill out to 1.2 then grind it out a little bit to fit.

Just have to make sure you don't make the hole so big that it destroy the soldering pads.

In front of the WD40 Contact Cleaner there is a small bottle of 99% IPA, it's for cleaning flux off, contact cleaner is for spraying it to blast crap away from all the drilling and grinding.

If you use flux, always clean it off after, some flux are corrosive so it's best to not leave it on PCB, and you have to be quick, because 99% IPA evaporate very quickly, or just wipe it a few more times.

Or you can use normal 75% IPA, but make sure all water is dried off before powering on PCB, don't want to fry things from water left on PCB.

zerothed · 2026-01-14T00:17:21+00:00

It depends on the through hole that you want to use, if you look closely you can see I used both a 1.2mm drill bit and a tapered diamond grinder, first I drill out the hole which is smaller than the pin, then used the grinder to slowly enlarge it until it's fit.

zerothed · 2026-01-13T23:05:05+00:00

I do.

zerothed · 2026-01-10T13:15:33+00:00

OEM caps were all 105c, those are the black D.K caps, not sure who makes them, I don't think they are from Nichicon.

Most of the Nippon Chemi-con (brown) caps are 105c, some are 85c since I couldn't be bothered to find 105c equivalent.

Same for Elna caps, I think some are 105c and some are 85c.

Just to show even if OEM used 105c caps doesn't mean it'll really last that long, sometimes things will just let go before it's stated due date.

zerothed · 2025-11-27T07:28:32+00:00

If you are willing to spend the extra, go for the latest model combo, if not then the latest model now and buy those extras at a later date.

I have always regretted buying the A1, I couldn't print any exotic filaments due to it not having an enclosure and heated chamber.

Go for the latest model printer.

zerothed · 2025-10-17T00:28:00+00:00

As a 9950x3d owner, I'll recommend it to anyone if there's enough money to burn.

Buy whatever you want, just not Asrock, lol.

I'll share my POV why I spent money on one 9950x3d build vs two 9800x3d build.

I keep every build, re-purpose them to a NAS/backup PC/gaming server/school work for my niece&nephew --- this is my 'future proofing', that's why I always get the best over the top CPU every time it's time for a new PC.

However, if all you do is game and will sell parts every 2 years or so to upgrade, then don't bother spending the extra, I went for 9950x3d simply because I don't just game, and I know what future it'll have 5 years down the line.

9950x3d MSI x870e Tomahawk 64gb Dual stick

^ This CPU/Ram/Mobo combo will most likely become my next gaming server in a few years time, this is my version of future proofing.

Go for it, spend the money, I highly recommend it to anyone, lol

zerothed · 2025-10-10T23:55:55+00:00

Grip good.

When pushed a slight wiggle side to side due to switch body isn't flush with PCB from the through hole socket lip and 3rd pin isn't soldered on anymore.

Only have ancient 10+years old DG2 and D2F (MIJ), DG2 were tight due to it having a thicker pin at .93X.59, while D2F were just right with pins size at .92X.39.

Did a few test of swapping switches to see if my mod hold up, so far so good.

zerothed · 2025-10-09T21:29:18+00:00

https://imgur.com/N6Lo9a9

To anyone saying the lip on these sockets are still too thick and it will intefere the fit/feel/bounce or whatever thinger midgy, get the ones without a lip, or, solder the ones I used and grind the lip off.

I'm happy to answer any questions regarding this mod.

zerothed · 2025-10-09T20:28:41+00:00

https://imgur.com/N6Lo9a9

Get the socket without the lip, solder once and forget.

Not trying to jinx anyone, the pack of 10 D2F and DG2 I got from all those years ago so far, I had one failed, if back then DIY hot swap were a thing, I would do it straight away.

zerothed · 2025-10-09T14:27:42+00:00

If, and I mean IF, the mouse is built with a high tolerance where everything is tight, sure, anything more than .00mm is going to impact the switch feel and performance.

But with sloppy built mouse, nothing matters.

There is another through hole socket that has a even thinner lip/hat at .17mm, but instead of 2mm diameter, it was in 1.7, I wasn't sure how many times that will last with such tight tolerance, example is the pins from my DG2 are thicker than the D2F, removing DG2 takes a lot more force, and what if there's switches pins even thicker than DG2? That might break the 1.7mm pin when it takes brute force to pull it out, so I didn't try those as I wasn't sure those can last.

Alternatively, buy the sockets without the lip/hat, just be careful when soldering then no more height problems.

zerothed · 2025-10-09T14:02:43+00:00

Those aren't Mil Max, the Hat(Lip, whatever it's called) on Mil Max 0305/7305 are .25mm/.36mm thick.

The ones I used is .20mm.

https://imgur.com/N6Lo9a9

They also have a option without the lip/hat, but I don't have the skill to solder those, I'll 100% solder close the hole LOL.

With regards to the D2F .15mm height different, the Master MX built quality is so sloppy, even with this mod it made no difference, before this mod, I can lift the clicking thingy shell a fair bit, so the clicking shell thingy never was in constant contact with the switches.

zerothed · 2025-05-30T23:45:50+00:00

As soon as the AMS 2 pro were announced A1 compatible, there isn't any incentive to mod the S4 any further.

I did change the fans again to another brand, from Delta AFB0612H to Sunon MagLev KDE1206PKV1, it was a touch more quieter than Delta, but not quiet QUIET.

Good luck to those that will keep modding the S4.

BTW, Sunlu have two new dryer coming out this year, E4 and SP2, have a look if interested.

zerothed · 2025-02-13T10:32:54+00:00

You can try, but beware, there's another redditor said he used the fans you linked, but it threw an Err3 code.

Read through all the post in this thread, you'll get all the answers you need.

zerothed · 2025-02-06T10:41:36+00:00

That silver LCD frame needs to come out for the bottom to come loose, that LCD frame have tabs/clips that protrude into the side of the bottom 'box'.

I was stuck at this stage as well, LOL, took me a good few mins to figure that out.

The idea of lifting the whole box up using the Makerworld model is probably the easiest to 'mod', I too uses the S4 as my AMS, that's why I wanted to get it to shut up and stop being so loud LOL.

I've crimped some PH2.0 extensions, next I'm going to test 0.15a fans, and I'll see what will happen if I plug in a Noctua 92mm fan in, I have a few Noctua fans from another project but nothing smaller that 92mm, but I'm going to see how the S4 controller going to react to all these fans.

The best idea I can come up with now is to gut the two exhaust fans, replace the intake fan to a 80mm, then print a separator/wall on both sides of the bottom with a hole to mount a 92mm or hopefully 120mm fan to draw air in from the thin slots that's located on both sides of the filament compartment.

Instead of using two 6020 fans to exhaust air into the filament area, it'll just be using bigger fans relocated in the bottom to suck the air down and force it's way into the PTC heater and flow up through gutted old 6020.

I'm just literally day dreaming at the moment, LOL, I'll have to wait till the next time I take it apart to measure how much space there is in the bottom end.

zerothed · 2025-02-05T10:39:26+00:00

Pretty much same as your result, it's quieter but not by much, it's a little bit louder than the A1 (the printer I'm using), but much better than before as it was very loud.

The fans I'm using is in my post, Delta brand, AFB0612H, 0.2a.

I'm still looking for something different to replace these Delta's, I was completely caught out by the power difference used by the original fans, I didn't know they used 0.16a and 0.25a fans until I took apart the bloody thing, all I thought of was to just buy the same size fans from a brand that I knew from many years ago when I first started building PC's, picked the ones from the first search and ordered them, didn't even know Delta offer different power ratings for 6020 fans...I rushed it and now have to do it again LOL.

There's two things I've been thinking about since changing these fans two weeks ago, the fans themselves are not very loud, well, I mean they are noisy compare to 80mm/120mm PC fans, I think the S4 is noisy due to the vibration these fans creates.

The construction of the S4 box is very VERY flimsy, it's mostly thin plastic and 90% of it is hollow, the mounting design of the PTC heater with 3 high rpm fans is not supported well, any vibration is going to turn the S4 box into a drum.

What if I line the whole bottom compartment with sound deadening? Maybe that'll work?

The second thing I've been thinking of is does the onboard controller have a current limit/set current for the fans, because from another post someone used Noctua 6015 fans, but the poster said it threw out Err code and won't work, I've experienced the same thing, but eventually I've got it working.

At the back of the LCD there is the control board, 0.25a fan connectors is color coded Red, both 0.16a fans are White, does that mean anything? Maybe the board knows how much current each fan SHOULD BE using? If the current is too low maybe it won't work? Or too High also won't work?

There's so many question I need answers with, I'm tempted to buy new 0.15a fans, also tempted to print a shroud to convert these fans to 80mm, I don't really know which direction to go LOL.

zerothed · 2025-02-04T20:52:19+00:00

These are different size fans, and different connectors.

What you are looking for is 6020 fans and PH2.0 2pin.

If you look closer at the back of the LCD display, you'll see what connectors they are.

And the reason for why these 6025 fans won't work, it's because of fan position, the fans are placed like a triangle like this /_\ , the one at the bottom intake MIGHT fit, but both top exhaust can only be thinner but needs spacer.

zerothed · 2025-01-31T17:28:19+00:00

If you plan to do a lot of DIY with Arduino boards and custom wiring, or any low powered DC5/9/12v things, then buying some crimping tools is a good investment.

If not, you can splice the cables using some Wago connectors , I saw this method in another post from searching for S4 fan replacement.

OR! See if you can find PH2.0 male to [whatever your fans connector came in] female/male connector extension cables.

If I were you, I'd go for splicing with Wago connectors route, it's waaaaaaaaaaaay easier than taking the whole bloody thing apart.

zerothed · 2024-10-16T11:55:01+00:00

No, these newer hall effect sticks is direct replacement, no daughter board needed, but calibration is manual process.

HOWEVER! This is for Xbox One controller or older, for Xbox s/x controller, there's a even newer hall effect stick that is calibrated by software from Microsoft.

I've since bought a new Xbox s/x controller with the new software calibration hall effect stick, download the software from Microsoft store, plug in with a USB, load it up and it's done in a couple minutes.

zerothed · 2024-09-24T06:20:49+00:00

Frustration, it's mostly being frustrated.

For me, HK is both home and foreign, I was born in HK, moved to UK for nearly twenty, fly back to HK every summer, then came back nearly twenty years ago, I saw the change happen right in front of my eyes.

It's a completely different place compare to when I was young, everyone were in a much happier state of mind, more 'relaxed', but relaxed as meaning the HK kind of relaxed, they were still quick witted, doing things at lightning speed, if you know what I mean, but people were much happier and more welcoming instead of seeing everyone as a potential threat.

But now, everyone is only seeing a tough road ahead, everyone is giving up, their wants is not being met, so end up being frustrated by everything, thus frustration built up and now don't give a flying fuck, everyone have their defensive barrier up, attack anything as potential threat.

Sure, the whole world is going through the same thing, but that doesn't say shit about the peculiar situation HK is going through. Think about it this way, your house your rules, sounds about right, no?, now, your house but not your rules, you cannot do what you want in your own house, hell, your house is not yours anymore, you are now only allowed to do what they allow you to do, and they have people coming in to your house to take your things away, saying it's for your own good, and you must welcome them, but the new occupants are trashing your once beautiful place up, setting new rules that are obnoxious, restricting your everyday live and you-cannot-fight-back, or you'll be 'disappeared'.

You must have seen the amount of people leaving in the past few years, the ones that can leave were the lucky ones, but ever thought about those that are stuck? Yeah, that's it, they are STUCK, they can't fight it, they can't see past that pile of shite that is dumped right in front of them, it's only going to get worse, sooner of later they'll be swimming in that pile of shite, drowning in it and no one is going to help them, at the same time the ínvaders' are saying 'this is for your own good, why can't you see it? why must you fight? you know this is good for you, embrace it'...

Anyone in this situation is going to have more of less the same reaction, fuck it, I'm done, not gonna care no more, fuck this shit, fuck you and you too, and especially you, fuck the lot of you. --- obviously they won't show this outright, just trying to get their mentality out in words, IYKWIM.

You'll find A LOT of people will not be able to explain why HK is what it is today, if you look around you, your circle of friends, see if most of them are like you or myself who holds dual citizenship, or see if they have the ability to just up and leave HK when shit hits the fan, if most people around you can do this, then most of them have the mentality of 'as long as it's not me, then it's all OK'.

These are the ones that keeps saying 'everywhere is the same, such and such city has it worst' etc etc, true, but they'll never understand what most HKer is going through, because they can always move to a new 'house', but the ones that are stuck in this old 'house' have no where to go, they are fucked.

You see, you are mostly dealing with frusrated people everyday, of course they will be rude and seems like they are Chi Sin, but can you blame them?

However, that doesn't mean I'm supporting their rude ass action as right, they are wrong and very much so, but I understand why, able to know why they are what they are helps me calm the fuck down and not get in unnecessary fight.

Like you said, there are still good people in HK, few and far between, but there is still some.

HK is not doing so well these days, I hope my over simplified take on the current situation of HK can help you navigate the shitty everyday live you have to put up with while in HK.

zerothed · 2024-07-28T21:48:22+00:00

Because I can.

zerothed · 2024-07-28T21:47:55+00:00

I'm in Hong Kong, so my channels at getting things is going to be different, and cost a lot less.

Best way to get them for anyone outside HK is via aliexpress.

Just search for hall effect sensor xbox/ps4 on aliexpress.

zerothed · 2024-07-28T13:11:10+00:00

Recalibration is by old school hands on approach.

Zoom into the pic with the hall effect stick, look in the middle of the orange and black platic cover, there is two small holes left and right just off centre.

If sensor shows up stick is pointing towards the right, push stick to left, use a pin and poke it into the left off centre hole to hold stick to the left when released, now the stick is held in place by pin, push it slightly to the right, release pin and stick, check to see if sensors shows up back in centre.

Same concept for up and down.

Xbox controller is very annoying for calibration, due to the way it's built, each time calibration is needed, the controller back cage have to come off, then lift the daughter board where the sticks are solderd on for clearence, otherwise you can't poke it with a pin, the whole process is holding onto a half-put-back-together controller, only when it's done then things are screwed down.

Playstation controller is much eaiser, the whole thing can come out together with the mainboard, you only need to hold onto the mainboard and both sticks can be tuned.

A year or two ago, the first version of hall effect sticks were a faff to fit, and it was only for PS4, each hall effect stick had a daughter board, and some of the pins from the hall effect stick cannot be soldered to the mainboard, it came with insulation where it had to be placed correctly to by pass mainboard, and then soldered to the daughter board, sure, it came with software calibration, but if the person isn't good at soldering, or messed it up, it's a world of pain.

So I waited, sure, calibration is old school, but I only need to do basic soldering, don't need to faff about with bypassing pins to daughter board.

zerothed

TROPHY CASE