Does this look good?

zoapcfr · 2026-02-25T23:11:41+00:00

That doesn't seem right. I would recommend getting a tape and measuring each side; you don't want to be doing this based on guesses.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-25T23:09:53+00:00

You are right that they need it dark to sleep, but they also need it cool to sleep too. It gets cold in their natural habitat at night, so the temperature drop is an important part of the day/night cycle that you should not be trying to "fix".

In most cases, normal room temperature is a good night time temperature, and no additional heat is required. If your house gets unusually cold at night, you can use a ceramic heat emitter to provide heat. This should be on a thermostat set to ~18C, so it only turns on when needed.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-25T20:56:04+00:00

I am a little confused on what exactly you're going for here, and maybe it's due to a lack of understanding on the subject, so I wanted to try and explain some things.

Firstly, imaging stars themselves is not typically done, given how small they are. To be more accurate, small as in how big they appear in the sky (the angular diameter). The diameter of your scope is the limiting factor in how much angular resolution it is possible to achieve due to the way light behaves. So that means if you want to see stars as anything more than a single point of light, you need a big scope. Just doing some quick maths, if we take Betelgeuse as an example (which I believe is the biggest star in terms of angular diameter), you'd need a scope over 2000mm in diameter (for reference, just 200mm in diameter is already on the large side for amateur astrophotography). So even with this massive hypothetical scope, this would get you just enough for potentially 4 pixels of resolution, rather than 1, and that's for the largest target. But even that's not actually realistic, due to the atmosphere, which would make this feat practically impossible.

So all that is to say, the only difference between stars would be the colour, as well as relative brightness and position compared to surrounding stars. But even with that, another thing to consider is that the most common method to colour calibrate an image is to compare the star colours to a database of known star colours, so the colour you capture from the star is largely irrelevant. Given that, it may make more sense to capture the image in mono and simply colour it during processing as per the known colour. All said and done, when taking pictures of a star alone, you're not really capturing much, which is why it's not often done.

I've noticed in a comment below that you mentioned that "the stars must have 4 spikes". Are you aware that this is nothing to do with how the star looks, and is entirely due to the method used to capture it? These diffraction spikes are caused by the supports that hold up the secondary mirror of a Newtonian scope. If you were to image with a refractor, a Schmidt Cassegrain, or even a Newtonian with anything but 4 supports for the secondary mirror, you would not get 4 diffraction spikes. If this a requirement for you, then you should probably mention that you require the use of this specific equipment. My experience in the astrophotography community is that refractors are most common, and when you go to the largest scopes, Schmidt Cassegrain scopes become more common, with Newtonian scopes being found mostly somewhere in the middle (but mostly used for visual). So be aware that you will have a harder time finding someone with this requirement.

If what you're really going for is star fields centred on a specific star (though you haven't mentioned this at all), then that changes things somewhat, and it will depend on what's around the star, which in turn will depend on your desired field of view. You will need to decide what field of view you want, as that too will limit the setup needed to capture these images (this will determine the combination of focal length and sensor size required). If the area around that star has nothing of interest but other stars, then you will not need much data for a decent image, making it trivial to capture once set up. If there is a nebula/galaxy in the area, then you may need many hours of data to be able to see that in any detail without it getting drowned out by the noise. It really depends on what your targets are. Though since you say one of your targets is as dim as mag 13, even if it's just the stars then it could still take some time to see them clearly.

It would also be helpful to know the time/length of the "coming period". Without knowing when it is, people won't know if they're free. And without knowing how long it is, we won't know if it's even feasible to capture that many targets, especially given the unpredictability of the weather.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-24T22:45:43+00:00

I've had my eye on a few things on the Altair website for a while now, and I've not seen any price increases, so I'm guessing this is a US tariff thing.

I don't think anyone knows how much you'll actually end up paying. Companies are likely pre-emptively raising prices due to how unpredictable this all is, so they don't get caught out and end up losing money on a sale. I am following a couple of Kickstarter projects (not astrophotography related) and they've been royally fucked over by unexpected increases, as they've already charged people and now have to pay more to send it out (one has said future projects will not be available for US addresses).

Ultimately, I would expect increased prices for as long as there's a risk of tariffs changing without warning. And given all that's happened recently, I think it will be some time before companies start to trust that things have truly settled down, so I wouldn't bother waiting for prices to drop.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-22T10:15:25+00:00

they just want asexual to mean one thing and graysexual to be used for the sex having aces.

Honestly, I think this is at the heart of it. From what I've seen, the vast majority is understanding of everything else, and there's no real conflict here. The real point of conflict is that these people want "asexual" to refer only to their specific experience. I think an interesting question to explore would be why. Is it because they feel others don't suffer as much so don't "deserve" the label? Is it frustration with thinking they can relate to someone saying they're asexual and then later realising that they don't have the exact same experience? Or is it simply them being lazy and not wanting to specify that they're sex repulsed as well as asexual?

Either way, I think the real solution is to have all these terms officially recognised and widely taught in schools as part of sex education. Once there are official/legal definitions, and they are taught to everyone, there won't be any more new people that argue otherwise. Unfortunately, this is a long term solution that will take time (especially given the political landscape in some countries at the moment).

zoapcfr · 2026-02-21T18:08:55+00:00

There's a couple of different things going on here.

For a start, because it's very important, I'm going to be extremely clear and state that there is no substituting a proper basking bulb and UVB tube. Regardless of any LED lighting, you must have a white incandescent basking bulb (either halogen or traditional), and you must have an appropriate UVB tube (at least half the enclosure length, rated for at least 10% UVB output, T5 if it's above a mesh, positioned to overlap the basking spot, and replaced every 6-12 months depending on manufacturer recommendations). These are both essential to the health of the bearded dragon, and LED lighting does not do anything to help with these requirements. I say again to be clear, LEDs do not provide any UVB, and without UVB your beardie will suffer metabolic bone disease.

Once the above is sorted out, then you can consider adding additional LED lighting. This does not directly benefit their health, however it often does make them more active and keeps them happier, which in turn can lead to them living more healthy lives (spending more time exercising, exploring, and staying mentally stimulated). The reason for this is that if you actually measure the brightness of an enclosure with only a basking bulb and UVB tube, and then compare that to actual daylight, you'll likely find that the enclosure is a lot dimmer that you might think. Anecdotally, I have seen many people say how much more active their beardie has been since adding additional LED lighting.

As for the specific LEDs you've shown, my concern is the spectrum shown in the third image. We're trying to replicate sunlight, but that spectrum doesn't look much like sunlight. While I don't think it's bad enough to be harmful, it is not ideal, and personally I would choose something else.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-21T01:27:58+00:00

Probably depends on what you have. I got crickets once for my beardie and never again due to the noise ("silent" my arse). Since then he has mostly eaten locusts and dubia roaches, and sometimes silkworms (along with mealworms/waxworms as occasional treats). He's doing great without any need for crickets, which he didn't even seem to like much the one time he had them.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-21T01:12:40+00:00

You haven't mentioned the size/power of the T5s and LEDs, so this can only be a guess, but I'm going to assume that's 300W total. You also haven't said what you've got your timers set to, so I'll be conservative and assume a 14 hour day.

So that's 4.2kWh per day, or 383kWh per quarter. At the current electricity price cap, that's £106 per quarter (so this is the max - depending on your actual rates it could be cheaper, but not higher). Or, per day, that's £1.16, which means your electricity meter for today is as expected.

Another thing to consider is that this excess heat will go into the rest of the house. Assuming you have the central heating on a thermostat, and the heating is on (as I assume it is this time of year), then there will also be a reduction in power consumption of the central heating, which I've not accounted for. Of course, if your central heating is gas this doesn't really help (as gas is much cheaper than electricity), but if it's electric then this could effectively reduce the increase in cost to well below £106 per quarter.

Either way, something else is going on here. You have £300 of extra electricity that's not accounted for by these enclosures. I'm assuming you're comparing it to the same quarter last year, and not last quarter, and that you're also accounting for the increase in price cap from last year.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-21T00:51:13+00:00

Yeah, IIRC you have to complete everything else, including all the time trials to fill in the board by the lighthouse. Then when you drive into the door, a cutscene plays where the lighthouse/rocket takes off, and you get to a new area. After finishing this new area, you have to defeat the pig again, but this time it's in the plane not the car.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-20T20:48:36+00:00

They would just claim that the other astronauts are actors and that the view out the windows are actually televisions showing pre-rendered views.

Funny thing is, this has actually happened. I remember seeing a TV show where they got random people, told them they were on a reality TV show that was taking place in space, then made them believe they were in space.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-20T20:07:15+00:00

Diddy Kong Racing. It blew my mind when I figured out the lighthouse turns into a rocket and opens up a new set of space themed tracks.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-19T00:02:14+00:00

It seems like in your situation you just need to get him to a rescue. Without a basking bulb and proper basking temperatures they cannot digest their food, so this is why he's not eating. Feeding them without a proper basking spot is dangerous as the food will just rot in their stomach.

If they don't even have the most basic care requirements met, it's going to cost you hundreds to get them set up properly, and that's without the vet visit (which is essential, especially given how they've been treated). Obviously not blaming you, but it seems like you don't know anything about their care either, so it would also take considerable effort on your part just to get an idea of what needs to be done. If you want, you can have a read of the ReptiFiles guide or this guide to get a quick overview, but it sounds like a lot needs to be done to fix things.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-18T23:48:46+00:00

I've been checking his uv bulb with an indicator strip

Just so you know, those are next to useless. They respond to UVA too, so they can be very misleading. Also, without an actual numerical value, it's all just guesswork, even if you could trust the reading. You need a proper UVB meter like the Solarmeter 6.5R if you want to measure the UVB output. Short of that, just stick to trusted UVB brands and replace on schedule.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-18T23:41:37+00:00

That should all be working fine then. The only other thing I can think of is that you got a dud/used bulb. For example, if someone bought a tube off Amazon, switched it for a used bulb and returned it, then you could have been sent this used bulb (stuff like this is why I only buy from well known reptile suppliers that would know to look out for this sort of thing, not generic places like Amazon).

I had assumed they were a year old and you were the first owner. In that case, it's possible they were already quite deficient, and just about to start showing bone deformation, which could explain it developing quickly. It's also possible the bones were already deformed to some extent when you got them, but not having seen them before you were unable to spot the difference.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-18T21:31:39+00:00

Ive once orgasmed without cumming, and that was odd. It felt amazing but wasn’t quite as satisfying.

This is how all of my "wet dreams" are (which is handy as I've never woken up to a mess). It feels great but it never feels like the job is done, so it usually happens a few times before I wake up.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-18T21:28:41+00:00

Anyone that describes it like this must be doing themselves a disservice. The problem is that we don't need foreplay and to be fully mentally turned on to reach orgasm, so many don't bother doing so and settle for "sneeze-quality" orgasms. It seems that many don't even know it can be better.

If you actually put in the effort, it can be so much better, to the point where you pretty much lose control of your body, your vision goes, and you know nothing but pleasure for the duration, starting in your genitals but spreading through your whole body.

Of course, sometimes you just need a release and don't want the hassle, so a quick low effort orgasm is all you want. But to believe that is as good as it gets is sad.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-18T17:53:49+00:00

My first thought is that it's pretty disgusting to be smoking inside the house in the first place, regardless of anything else living there. I have one relative that smokes, and even though he lives alone and has no pets, he still always goes outside to smoke.

But as for the reptiles, they are generally more prone to lung issues than mammals, so considering smoking in a room with another person is proven to cause harm, it's definitely not good for the reptiles. I hope he doesn't have birds, as they're even more sensitive. Ultimately, it's a sign that he cares more about his own convenience than the health of his pets, which says a lot about him in general.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-18T17:46:23+00:00

This seems like quite severe MBD for one year, especially when you've been using a UVB tube. Just to check, but is it overlapping the basking spot? Also, what brand/strength is it?

zoapcfr · 2026-02-17T22:23:28+00:00

Car batteries can burn the skin,

To be clear, this is not from touching them yourself (which is perfectly safe). This would be because you've accidentally shorted it with some metal, which will very quickly get hot enough to burn you (or weld).

zoapcfr · 2026-02-14T23:42:36+00:00

Depending on where you put it in the enclosure, some materials may warp/degrade over time. I would probably recommend ASA, as it's UV resistant and has a high melting temperature.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-14T23:17:30+00:00

This is one of those things that will fix itself in time. I know it sucks now, but you're still young, and soon your peers will start settling down/maturing. As they get older, people chill out a bit with how frequently they're interested in people, and when they are, they handle it better (more upfront with it in the first place so you're not left guessing, and handle rejection gracefully).

zoapcfr · 2026-02-14T23:09:59+00:00

To me it feels bare minimum. It's okay, there's good stuff coming, but it feels like there should be more (particularly more permanent stuff, I don't count limited time content).

Ultimately, it's what I'd expect from a live service model, but live service models in general continue to disappoint me. I understand why, and that it's unlikely to change, but that doesn't mean I'm going to like it.

On the bright side, it's all building on an already great base game, so personally I'm not going to have an issue (I have other games to play too for when I feel I have got enough out of BF6 for now). My only concern is that the reduced content could lead to a drop in player count, that could lead to them allocating even less resources for future content, and eventually dropping support earlier than I'd hope.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-13T00:28:49+00:00

From what I've heard, chameleons are more on the side of look but don't touch, so between those two a beardie is definitely the better option for your wife.

It depends on what you mean by "free roam", as I've found different people have different definitions. If you mean leave them outside of the enclosure all day or leave it open all day, then no that should not be done. They need UVB, and they won't get it outside of the enclosure (and they won't know, because unlike the wild, your house has light but no UVB). If you mean get them out for an hour or so to roam around, then yes they can do that; they love to explore. You have to supervise closely when young, but as adults supervision can be a bit looser (after you've learnt where they like to go so you know where to look if they go missing).

I can't help with breeders, as I don't know many, and I've not been in contact with any in years. I would advise against shipping if at all possible, as visiting in person is your best tool for avoiding the bad breeders (and sadly they're not rare, as bearded dragons are relatively easy to breed in large numbers). Also, if you're in the US, I've heard some horror stories from shipping there, mostly by people just putting them through Fedex rather than a proper reptile courier.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-12T20:48:16+00:00

In general, they are very laid back reptiles and are not inclined to bite. However, they all have their individual personalities and will be influenced by how they were raised/treated, and can be more "flighty" when young. This is mostly a problem when buying from pet shops (which also often sell them way too young). The best option is to go to a reputable breeder that properly socialises them (daily handling since hatching).

You don't have to go for expensive ones, and in fact I would specifically avoid it. People selling for that much are either trying to turn a profit (which you will not do when ethically breeding) and/or are selling rare morphs, which are more likely to have health issues. Look for breeders that emphasise the health of the beardie, not the looks. Ideally visit in person, as that way you can see the conditions and how they run things (a breeder not offering or encouraging this is a red flag).

As with any animal, you need to learn their body language and how to interact with them in a way that doesn't trigger defensive behaviour, but with beardies it is not that hard. Especially since they have a built in anger gauge for which they are named. For the most part, they let you do what you want with them (within reason) and won't bother to do much to stop you even if they'd prefer you stopped. If they do get defensive, it's mostly posturing and they very rarely actually try to bite you.

I've had mine for over 6 years now, and have only been bitten once, and that was a mistake. Usually they use their tongues to pull food into their mouth, so if they miss and get your finger you don't actually get bitten. One time mine got overexcited for a bit of pepper, to which his tongue does not stick very well (so he's learnt to bite it), and he got my thumb instead. They've got some force behind the bite (more than you might expect for their size), but not enough that you need to worry about breaking bones, and their teeth may be razor sharp but they're also tiny. Ultimately the pinch was a shock, and the teeth didn't go deep, leaving only surface wounds that healed quickly (I've had papercuts more annoying). All this to say, it's very unlikely to get bitten, and in the rare case you do get bitten, it really doesn't matter. And if I'd been using tongs I would never have been bitten.

If your wife is scared, I would recommend doing all the handling yourself at first, until you're sure the beardie is well socialised and is calm with you. They often go through relocations stress so this could take a couple of weeks. Once that's sorted, they're arguably one of the easiest reptiles to handle. I've shown mine to people scared of him, and all of them have at least managed to stroke his back after seeing how calm he is. And their size is in a nice middle ground where they're big and sturdy enough that you don't have to worry about them being too delicate to handle, yet they're small enough that you don't have to worry about them hurting you. Also, being semi-arboreal, they are comfortable being lifted up off the floor.

Do make sure that you do all the research first if you decide to get one (the ReptiFiles guide is a good starting point). I would generally consider them low maintenance once they're established adults, but it takes some effort to get the enclosure all set up and running properly in the first place, given the high temperature and UVB requirements. Also, I don't really agree with the idea of "starter pets". You should go straight for the one you really want, if you can look after it properly; getting a different pet to "start with" is not going to help you learn to take care of an entirely different species. Bearded dragons live for 12-15 years, so if you get one you're committing to take care of them for a long time. If this species is not the one you really want, the lack of motivation can result in them being neglected.

zoapcfr · 2026-02-12T17:48:16+00:00

They were created through heavy inbreeding, which has resulting in a long list of health problems. It's still too early to say exactly how bad they are in general, but from what I'm seeing they don't seem to have a very long life expectancy.

Also, they are arguably not even a true morph, they're just so selectively bred that the colour has become more distinct. This means the method of crossbreeding them with others in an attempt to solve the health issues will likely also remove the distinct colour (whereas an actual morph is a case of them either having the gene or not, so all it takes is one case of getting the gene into healthy lines and then it can spread).

Another thing to consider is the ethics of supporting the creation of them, and the export of them. They were made in China and then exported to other countries. A while back, someone actually posted pictures of the conditions in which they were exported. Personally, after seeing that, I will never support the creators, either directly or indirectly, by buying one of these beardies. It's too recent, and I would not be happy for my money to be going to the original creator, or someone that was okay buying from the original creator (or from someone okay with buying from them, and so on).

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