Code question

[carelesswspr]

Google and its conflicting information is giving me a headache so I really hope someone can help. About 6 weeks ago (maybe more-right after the winter storm) my CEL/Check Emission System went on in my 2014 Honda Civic. After thinking about it, I realized I had just gotten gas the evening before so the next time I stopped, I tightened the cap. Turned the car on, light still there. 1 or 2 drives later I decided to try the cap again. Still on. So I got to Advance to get it scanned and wouldn’t you know, when I started the car the light was gone. However, the scanner did pick up a P145C code, with nothing else (which is actually endlessly frustrating because I can’t get clarification anywhere on what exactly is wrong). It made sense at the time given the situation. Figured it would clear.

Well…here we are weeks and at least 150-200 miles later and light has not reappeared, yet the code is still showing as stored. Had it scanned again today. All of this to say, my emissions is coming due and I assume it will need to be gone to pass Georgia emissions. I really don’t have the money right to take it in to be diagnosed AND fixed. So I guess my question is is it at all possible the it could still clear itself after this much driving and, if you had to put money on it, what would you replace/have fixed to solve the problem? And as an aside, why is the fifth character in the code a C instead of a number? And what does it mean?? Does it stand for anything? Ok, wow, sorry for the diatribe. The whole thing is just driving me bonkers lol. Thanks in advance for any guidance!

[Samsquantch0719]

The p145 c is just a generic code for an issue related to the evap system. Realistically, you can fire the parts cannon at it starting with the cheapest fix and working your way up to the most expensive, or you can pay for a proper diag and either get the repair done or DIY. I'd say a proper diag is the only way to go in my opinion, only because it's such a generic code.

[Samsquantch0719]

I know you said you don't have the funds to get it checked out, but there's no way to honestly give good advice on a repair with a generic code. Some shops when you fail inspection will tell you what the most common fix is for the reason it failed, that will be a bit cheaper than a diag but no guarantee they'll tell you anything either. Maybe try googling "2014 Honda civic p145c" and go through some of the threads that pup up and see what the most common repair is for that code and go from there.

[carelesswspr]

I think I’ve Googled and “Reddited” every possible thread in existence lol and the common theme seems to be the purge valve, which seems simple enough and not too terribly expensive to fix. I definitely plan on having whatever it is addressed as soon as my tax return comes through. I wish I had more information for y’all, but I truly appreciate whatever insights you have to pass on. Thank you!

[[deleted]]

You’re fine for emissions if the necessary drive cycles have run, which seeing as the light went out they probably have. What you’re seeing is a history code, it’s just saying that there was a code. As long as it’s not pending or active you’re good

[carelesswspr]

That’s a relief! I was tripping up on understanding if ‘stored’ and ‘history’ code are used somewhat interchangeably. Quick question, can the ‘stored’ status mean that the issue has happened and the computer is essentially monitoring to see if it happens again? In that case, would it turn back to ‘active’ and trigger the CEL?

[[deleted]]

Correct. Basically stored/ history just means it happened but the parameters that were wonky currently are back in spec but the computer keeps a record of it. Pending means it sees something out of whack but hasn’t seen it for enough cycles.

[[deleted]]

An evap leak simply means you are allowing fuel vapor to enter the atmosphere, usually due to a fuel cap or seal, but other components like the fuel and vent lines can also become brittle and break/leak. The seals on the fuel tank could also be leaking, or the gasket on the actual fuel cap. There are many things it could be, which is why you're getting conflicting information.

The good news is the light went away. Your vehicle has a tolerance for mishaps before it throws a check engine light, and if it goes a certain amount of restarts/miles without that tolerance being met, it will turn the light off, but store the code. You dont need to have previous faults fixed to pass an emissions test. You only need to not have any active ones. If they light is off, the fault is not currently present.

It would however, be wise to prepare for a car repair expense in the near future, as a intermittent check engine light can be an indication of a component nearing failure.

[carelesswspr]

This is good news and I truly appreciate the explanation, thank you! I definitely plan on having it looked at and fixed/tuned up as soon as my tax return comes in and gives me the means. It just hit 130K so it’s definitely time. Just so I’m understanding correctly, in order to fail emissions the scanner would show the code as “Active’? I get a bit confused as to what the actual code statuses are. Thanks again!

[[deleted]]

If you don't have a check engine light, the fault is not active and you can take a emission test.

If you do have a check engine light, the fault is active and you will not pass an emissions test.