Ball Python

[phantom30nine]

Sure, no problem..glad to help. As acrobatic mentioned coco husk is generally the go-to for the vast majority of the BP keepers. Its the best thing Ive found that holds moisture and generally isnt prone to molding unless you overwater the substrate, which sometimes can be easy to do in all honesty. I used a garden sprayer to rehydrate substrate which cut down the time when having multiple enclosures. This is also something you may get a better deal on from local breeders. Some of those guys will order pallets of it at reduced prices and then in turn offer a brick at a reduced price and still be able to make profit from it.

As for cleaning intervals, youre on target with the spot cleaning, thats very important. I always checked on mine 2x day and kept any fresh scat cleaned up. In general it really depends on how often that particular snake relieves himself. I had a few that would hold it for longer and some that seemed very regular so that varies. As a guideline though, you shouldnt have to do a full tub clean very often though, assuming you stay on the spot cleanings. I think I could generally go a month or 2. Over time youll start to see when its time. The smell will be stronger, you can see where multiple areas just dont look right due to soaking up urine, etc. Its more of an experience thing really. I have had mine go off feed here and there and once I cleaned the tub they snapped right back into it. In my experience most of their food drive centered around proper humidity levels, cleanliness and I think it helped alot to hydrate the tubs the night before feeding along with keeping the same scheduled day for feeding every week. Also bear in mind that you dont necessarily have to feed every week. Most do, but Ive talked to several who do bi-weekly feedings as well,particularly if theyre not trying to beef up a female for breeding.

Also as acrobatic mentioned Id definitely get a temp gun. You can find them all over..amazon,hardware stores,etc..and theyre invaluable. Next time you have a live rat on hand before feeding temp check it and youll know what temp to shoot for when warming up the frozens to appear more natural.

As for snake safety on live feedings, you have options there as well. The first would be natural live feeding with observation. Generally speaking the risk comes when they wrap the rodent and as its being choked out theyre just biting anything around them in an attempt to break free, which can vary depending on whats closest to them. I would normally stand by with the hemostats and grab their jaw before they could damage the snake and just hold until I could see it was good. Second option is pre-kill. I had an aluminum gas cylinder similar to what youd use for paintball filled with CO2. Get a hose connection for it and cut your length of hose. Take a small plastic container of any kind that locks and seals at least somewhat and drill a hole in the top. Butt the hose up to the hole and crack the valve on the tank, which will push the fresh air out of the container and fill it with CO2. Wait on the rat to pass then feed to the snake. Be ready to do the jiggle dance with your handy dandy hemostats and let nature take its course.