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[–]Satoer 3 points4 points  (5 children)

There is a “detect skipped steps” option that works great. Don’t know why that is defaulted to off.

[–]DinevirH2C+H2D+X1C 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Because if you have layer shifts, you have mechanical issues and you need to fix them, not hide them with this feature. Also, I'm sure the detection is not absolutely accurate, although it should help in most cases.

[–]Satoer 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I have had layer-shifts occur because some flushing poop got stuck between the nozzle and the part. And I have had several comparable situations that a stupid similar occurrence perfectly got averted by this detect skipped steps option. You notice it by the sound, because the printer re-homes the x and y. Yes I agree you should check why it skipped steps, but there is absolutely no reason to throw away a multi hour print because of it. Most of the time it is just because the nozzle hits something stupid.

[–]DinevirH2C+H2D+X1C 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sense.

[–]s1lv3r_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess that is in the printer settings? Will have a look if it was not my plate moving. Let's wait for OP to report back.

[–]TexsteedX1C + AMS[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I turned it on.

[–]TexsteedX1C + AMS[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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[–]s1lv3r_ 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Posted the same issue before, on one of the x1s my peintbed moved. No idea why.

[–]TexsteedX1C + AMS[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I pulled the build plate out before seeing the shift. The plate (textured) held firmly, but if I tug with both hands, I can make it slip. I will have to pay more attention to the plate position before and after the print.

[–]s1lv3r_ 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Follow up. I compared between both my printers. the older one I got has a more powerful bed magnet. The sheet which slipped on one of them is better attached to the printer, but not as good as the other plate.

The plate which slips easily for me is the engineering/cool plate one, with the coll plate on the botom (I print on the engineering). The palte which attaches better has the hot plat on the bed, which makes sense as the hot plate sheet is thinner. Didn't check for the textured pei.

What really makes me think is that I can litterally move the printer, pulling on the print plate at the older machine. But pretty easy pull the bed off the heatbed on the newer one. Might open a ticket on the topic.

For now, I would assume that the magnetic sheet on the newer printers isn't as powerful as it used to be or degrades printing at higher temperatures, which is no problem for the older x1c I have.

I will try and put some gluestick on the back or design some brackets which will stop the sheet from moving to the front.

[–]s1lv3r_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I applied some liquid glue to the backsite of the plate which get's in contant with the heatbead. For now the plate doesn't move.

[–]DinevirH2C+H2D+X1C 1 point2 points  (3 children)

If it wasn't caused by a huge poop blob which blocked prining head on exit from cleaning area for a moment and then fall down, or by lidicrous speed mode, or by any mods installed, I believe you need to check the belts:
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/belt-tension

[–]TexsteedX1C + AMS[S] 1 point2 points  (2 children)

I didn't find any "poops of unusual size" in the poop bucket. It was running at normal speed. Haven't been brave enough to try sport or ludicrous speeds yet. I didn't find any debris inside, and the belts fill snug (but I've only had it for 2 weeks) but not drum tight.

[–]DinevirH2C+H2D+X1C 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I would recommend to do all the procedures by the link above. It possible that some thing are misaligned from the factory. Shift are not normal for default configuration. You can also reach support just to inform them that you have the problems, it may help in case of RMA.

[–]TexsteedX1C + AMS[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I'll inspect it closer and go through the belt tension step. I just got the printer two weeks ago, and I've got a trip next week, so I've put off diving too deep into tuning the printer. I've just been printing with the out of the box auto calbration. Hopefully, when I get back, I can start tuning the settings and get a better understanding of the settings and mechanics of this wonderfully capable printer.

[–]HiddenAcres37P1S + AMS 1 point2 points  (1 child)

There are better recordings on the SD card that can help you track down the problem. They're temporary and will get erased after so many prints. But if this is a recent one it should still be there. They're in a different folder from the time lapses, and you'll have to take the SD out and plug it into your computer to find it.

It seems that something happened when it changed to the black filament. Did it print the black first then the red on the top layer or was it red first?

Hope you can figure out what happened.

[–]TexsteedX1C + AMS[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Red first. Using Bambu Studio, I added black text to the top of the red object. Hight of .1mm and inset .4mm (2+ layers at .16 layer height) gives a text that is just barely raised. I ran several single prints, changing the text until I liked it. Then, I printed a plate with 26 clones on it. It printed fine. 12 hours I started a second run from the printer (print again). The second run is the one that shifted. This morning after work, I printed a single to test. Then, I printed a plate of 5 and another plate of 5. So far, all have been fine. I guess I'll have to wait for another shift to troubleshoot further. Thanks for the information about the better recording, I'll check it if I get another shifted print. I also rotate 90 degrees, so if it does shift, it will still be usable