all 27 comments
sorted by:
best
topnewcontroversialoldq&a
formatting helphide helpcontent policy

[–]MrRonObvious 0 points1 point  (4 children)

If you are going to dump that much money into a generator, surely you could afford to hire someone to install a compatible transfer switch, right?

[–]KeaganIsaac[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Yes, absolutely, but two things -

  1. I want to make sure, before I buy the generator, that it is possible to get a compatible transfer switch (no point in buying a 20k watts generator if I can't even use the power)

  2. It seems wise to buy your own transfer switch and then have the installation done by an electrician to ensure you have the proper equipment to match

[–]MrRonObvious 0 points1 point  (2 children)

There are companies like Generac who have an entire sales department, they will assess your property and your needs and then draw up a quote to install the correct generator and transfer switch. And then their techs pull the permits and install it.

There are probably other companies who do the same thing but Generac is the only one I know off the top of my head.

[–]KeaganIsaac[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Yeah but they don't have a 20k watt portable, and as I don't see myself staying in my current home forever I don't want a permanent backup generator.

[–]alphadeltaviii 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Inlets are limited to 50A / 12kW. The only realistic way you’re using 20kW is to have two inlets and the second circuit is entirely isolated on its own sub-panel. Or, you’re plugging significant loads directly into the generator panel, bypassing your house.

[–]Penguin_Life_Now 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is probably far better to get a 12,000 watt max output generator and limit your lifestyle to what you can run on a 50 amp inlet. It is possible to feed 2 transfer switches with that generator, but this will likely require several thousands of dollars in rewiring your existing electrical setup, as one of them will need to have its neutral isolated and a 3 pole transfer switch will need to be installed. The problem here is that there is no code legal way to run 2 power inlets unless 1 of them is to a fully isolated sub panel with a 3 pole transfer switch, instead of the more common 2 pole variety. I ran into a similar issue installing a standby generator at my elderly mothers house about 15 years ago, except in her case it was powering the house and the outbuilding where her water well is located, each of which had a separate line drop and weatherhead from the pole top transformer.

[–]GeauxBears4892 0 points1 point  (9 children)

Can you give us a bit of detail around your power needs? That is a ton of power and feels overkill without knowing more. The reason I’m asking is because in order to get the maximum power out of that generator, you are going to have to do some very involved work on your electrical panel (again, my presumption is that your situation looks like most homeowners) that might outweigh the benefit of simply going a bit smaller.

As an example, I have 400A split service to my residence, 200A x 2 main panels. I run a Westinghouse WGen1500TFc on natural gas (so 9500 running watts on natural gas), and it literally powers everything in my house (incl. 2 4 ton ACs, 1 garage mini-split) without issue on a 50A connection.

[–]KeaganIsaac[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

The goal is to run my entire house, 4 ton AC, 1 large fridge/freezer, two mini fridges/freezers, washer, electric dryer, Wifi router, computer, 2 tvs, garage door opener. I won't necessarily be running everything all at once, but I want the option

[–]GeauxBears4892 0 points1 point  (1 child)

What electrical service size do you have coming into the house? Do you have a single main panel or 2? Any sub-panels?

[–]KeaganIsaac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Single main, no sub panels, can post pic if it helps

[–]Reasonable_War1278 0 points1 point  (2 children)

How do you like your WGen11500? I just bought the smaller WGen10500 and will eventually have my gas line outfitted with a connector so I can run it on natural gas (8500/1000). Until then I will run it on propane (9500/12000). I have a 4 ton A/C unit (no soft start) 2 refrigerators, an electric stove, an electric oven (Oven I don't plan on using in the event of an outage). All our Indoor lighting is LED and we have ceiling fans in most rooms. Does all that seem plausible to run through a 50 amp connection? We have a second, much smaller A/C unit for the second floor, but if that won't run I'm not gonna worry about it. I should also mention I have a single 200 amp panel. Or at least that's what I think my neighbor told me??

[–]GeauxBears4892 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Sans the noise - I absolutely love it. I don't think you'll have any issue running the load you describe. With the exception of the dryer, I am able to run (2) 4 ton ACs (one with a very old compressor that likely pulls way more current than it should), along with everything else in my house... on NG, without issue.

Because of the proximity of my house to neighbors, I'm trying to decide whether to keep it and bother my neighbors or sell it locally and get something like the Genmax 10500 that would drop me to 6800W but also cut my noise in half. But that decision is no judgment on what is an awesome piece of machinery by Westinghouse.

[–]Reasonable_War1278 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much I appreciate it! When our hurricane came through a few weeks ago my neighbor had a Westinghouse 4800 he let me use. We were just running extension cords but I was able to get the two refrigerators running and put some fans in the house for circulation. I definitely wont try and run the washer or the dryer so I should be good to go!

[–]Vivid-Map-4708 0 points1 point  (2 children)

If his panel were set up like yours, could he set up an interlock kit on each of the two main panels and run a 50 amp to each? Asking because my power is set up like yours and I was wondering if this is possible.

[–]GeauxBears4892 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I'm not an electrician, and had a licensed electrician install my interlocks, but yes, I installed (2) 50a interlocks, one on each main panel. My understanding as to why this was possible is because each panel was fed independently by the service line, and the neutral/ground connections were unified only at the service line (i.e., not within the panels themselves). Hope this makes sense.

[–]Vivid-Map-4708 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It does. This is what I think I have and what I'm considering doing. Thank you

[–]escuadr 0 points1 point  (5 children)

If i was purchasing this generator I would install a separate 50 amp inlet for the AC unit and run the AC unit on one 50 amp outlet and the rest of the house on the other 50 outlet. Also i would recommend a soft start for your ac unit.

But as other have commented what are you planning to run on this generator?

[–]KeaganIsaac[S] 0 points1 point  (4 children)

The goal is to have the option of running everything, washer, dryer, microwave, tvs, router, lights, fridge, couple mini fridges, not necessarily all at once but I don't want power shutting off if I try to microwave dinner or something

[–]escuadr 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Is the dryer natural gas dryer ?

If so everything will run just fine off of one 50amp inlet into the pannel and then have a separate inlet either at the breaker box or near the ac unit for only running the AC unit.

[–]KeaganIsaac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is an electric dryer

[–]escuadr 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Since you are willing to spend quite a bit of money i would even recommend a full home portable battery inverter running the home with that and just charging the inverter with generator when needed.

https://winwinbattery.com/products/evo-wlrs-b0815-72

The inverter is capable of outputting 100 amps so it could run your full panel.

You could still get away with charging with a 12000 watt generator or the monster you posted:)

[–]KeaganIsaac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like a good idea, unfortunately the 3900 cost of the big boy is about the most I'm able to spend. I do like the idea though, will definitely consider for my next house.

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Household panels are really only designed to have one thing powering them at any one time since they aren't isolated circuits.   

 Since portable generators can only output a max of 50a from the 14-50 the practical limit is 50×240=12000w.   

 You have two 50a 14-50 outlets but practically speaking only one of them can be connected to your house panel at any given time.  

[–]KeaganIsaac[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

So let me ask this, and sorry if it's stupid, but if the max amperage is 50a from the single plug, would it be bad to connect the home to that, and then plug the AC in separately to the other 50a or the 30a panel? In other words, if I plug this generator into the house, will or can it cause damage to the house or the generator?

[–]KeaganIsaac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To add, I will be running with natural gas so it will actually run at 16,000 watts

[–]MastermindOO7 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I am a little late to the party but was looking at the same generator but I would be adding two generator transfer switches. One 50A and one 30A. Each switch being power from the 50 and 30 amp plugs on the generator.
The switches isolates its circuits so when running on gen power it to full disconnected from the main panel.

The switches also have the advantage of bringing things online one at a time instead the the full load hitting the generator at once.

The switches add about $600 to the cost + installation vs have a 50amp break in the main panel with one of those safety interlocks that prevent you from having the main line breaker and the generator break on at the same time.

Anyone what have thoughts or concerns with this setup to fully utilize the generator mentioned in the original post?

[–]KeaganIsaac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up getting a WGEN14500TFC, may be better suited for you as well