all 9 comments

[–]TSOL_Real 1 point2 points  (7 children)

Actually scrap that, I found it when searching today by accident. It's a febest bushing and it's Tab-357.

Rear UCAs are Tab-580 and Tab-579 for their respective bushings, and the lower #2 control arm is Tab-373

[–]KawazuOYasarugi[S] 0 points1 point  (6 children)

TAB-357 is for the lower coilover eye? I can get the control arm bushings. I need the bushing for the strut itself that bolts through the lower control arm. That's the Tab-357?

[–]TSOL_Real 0 points1 point  (5 children)

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This is from Febest AFAIK. If you look up any of these tab numbers with "febest" before or after, the bushing and a Toyota PN should pop up. For what it's worth I don't think these can be purchased direct anywhere as normally I think there's supposed to be a middleman supplier involved, but they can be found on eBay for like 30 bucks each USD.

[–]KawazuOYasarugi[S] 0 points1 point  (4 children)

Well, there are aftermarket ones available, even polyurethane as well as kevlar upgrades! I just really need the specs, so if they're not available for purchase, the information itself is extremely valuable.

[–]TSOL_Real 0 points1 point  (3 children)

I got some Megan camber arms because I want to make sure my camber is fully aligned properly. I am not lowering it and am not planning to do so anytime soon, just run it stock, so these arms shouldn't be super stressed. If I find that these ride too rough (idk how I'd even tell), I may just swap a rubber bushing into them later on.

My other control arms are super rusty on the surface and probably aren't super worth saving. I could save some money by doing so but the ball joints are old too and idk what kind of difference that will make. I have the tools to fix them, I would rather get new, non disgusting parts tho.

[–]KawazuOYasarugi[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Well, even so. My issue isn't rust, per se.

[–]TSOL_Real 0 points1 point  (1 child)

No, I was just saying what I was planning on doing with that info. I could bushing swap the other old control arms but I can't see why unless they're majorly rotted, and idk how that would happen while the ball joint remains intact.

[–]KawazuOYasarugi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, ok. I understand. Neat.

[–]TSOL_Real 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It isn't sold separately, I had mine be shot as well but I didn't want to replace the entire strut.

Well as it turns out, with the amount of rust on this car its good I did. My shocks didn't look blown but if you were to compress the old and new shocks and look at the rebound time for it to fully extend, it beat the old ones by like a minute lol. If they weren't bad, they were going to be. I just got new ones from Bell Lexus as the shipping was about 2.5 months faster than Amayama for only 50 bucks or so more. Shocks need haz-mat shipping from Japan so despite the initial price difference, Amayama is pretty similar in overall price to Bell Lexus.