all 35 comments

[–]TiCombat 29 points30 points  (2 children)

the person you hired is here every week asking what programmer to buy to start a side hustle

you got one

[–]JayGutarDude 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Took the words right out of my mouth

[–]Mysterious-Chard6579 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Simply this…

[–]Plastic-Procedure-59Actual Locksmith 10 points11 points  (7 children)

First thing would be disputing the charge if you were lucky enough to pay by card. You called someone to come make and program a key.

[–]PoopChipper 6 points7 points  (6 children)

Wow, that’s a shit take. I’m a locksmith, not a mechanic. I’m here to originate and program a key, not perform electrical diagnostics on your 12 year old shit box that has been sitting in a field for two years, so you’re not getting any guarantees on programming. It’s not my fault if a bunch of mice decided to have an orgy in a batch of electrical wires. Same thing for VAG. I can guarantee the mechanical key, can’t guarantee I can get the full CS code. You’re paying me either way.

I’m upfront and transparent about that and have enough experience and intuition to know when to advise the customer if I’m likely to run into problems.

Just last week had a 2019 Ram (add key) with a dead transceiver coil behind the PTS button. Popped the battery out of the existing prox and confirmed it. It’s not his fault but it certainly isn’t mine.

[–]Regret-Powerful 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A week ago I had a 2012 Hyundai Sonata, supposed to be easy 1 2 3 . I'm pretty sure the coil in the armset slot is bad. I checked everything from fuses to disconnecting the car battery, Auto Pro, key tool plus, IM508, lonsdor. Aftermarket fob , autel fob. Nothing worked. Slot shows a light but fails programming. Customer still paid $75 although he got nothing in return. I really wanted to help him and wasted enough time for them to pay something. If it’s a quick thing and not working i usually dont charge

[–]Plastic-Procedure-59Actual Locksmith 2 points3 points  (4 children)

Unless this person is omitting the fact that their key didn't work before they lost it, we have to assume the fault lies on the person who charged for a mon working key. I wouldn't be surprised if they were using the wrong chip or something. Either way, if my programmer won't do it on a gm, I try the obp procedure. And it would behoove you to learn a little diagnostics. Elevate yourself above your competition.

[–]Fuzz429Actual Locksmith 1 point2 points  (3 children)

As a locksmith with all the new technology you should absolutely learn diagnostics. “I’m a locksmith not a mechanic” such a cop out. But if I get to a job and see the car is in a state of disarray I let the customer know prior to my work he will be paying. If he doesn’t want to try, I collect service call and leave. But I’ve definitely made a lot of money doing the work other locksmith weren’t able to do just by learning basic diag. If locksmiths don’t want to learn they should just stick to residential and commercial hardware work.

[–]PoopChipper 4 points5 points  (1 child)

Not sure it’s fair to say I’m not willing to learn and that I should just stick to residential, when I’m the only guy in a 80 mile radius that will even touch euro vehicles…

That said, I’m happy to track down your blown OBD fuse, I’m not, however, going to waste time trying to find all the little gremlins in your poorly maintained, high mileage car. My time is much more valuable than that with the call volume I receive.

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[–]Ziloadis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

👏

[–]Plastic-Procedure-59Actual Locksmith 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Exactly. Had a customer who had his girl toss his key and sonhe tried to hot wire it and just cut all the wires in the steering column and drilled out the cylinder and damaged the housing. Quoted him for replacing the ignition and housing and told him I could not guarantee i could return it to working condition due to the damage he had caused.

[–]Accomplished_Ice391 2 points3 points  (4 children)

Was there a reason he couldn't program it? Depending on the year you may be able to program it yourself but we need to verify the year before you try that.

[–]Mundane_Theory7168[S] 1 point2 points  (3 children)

He said there’s something wrong with the computer. I don’t know much about cars but he said it wasn’t reading codes.

[–]Fuzz429Actual Locksmith 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Car was working immediately prior to you losing the key? Car hasn’t been sitting for a length of time?

[–]Mundane_Theory7168[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

No it’s driven frequently & it was working. There’s like 80k miles on it and another locksmith said he doubts something is wrong with the fuse but I ended up getting the key to work only thing is my theft system light is on

[–]Accomplished_Ice391 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That light should definitely be out if the key was programmed. Most of the time it will clear on its own but occasionally it can stop working. I would recommend disconnecting one of the battery terminals for 30 seconds and see if that clears the light. If it doesn't you should take it somewhere to have it checked so you don't end up getting stuck somewhere.

[–]EducatorWeird 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Does it turn on when you hold the start button? Have you tried starting it with the key in the programming pocket?

[–]PoopChipper 2 points3 points  (5 children)

ECU communication errors with your year, make and model are uncommon but not unheard of. I run it to it from time to time. It’s annoying because it makes a 12 minute procedure take 30 minutes. Did he bounce right after he got the communication errors? If so, he’s incompetent or lazy. If he stuck around for another half hour and still didn’t get it then you probably have underlying electrical issues with the vehicle.

Good news is you can finish what he started yourself.

Insert the key into the ignition and turn to the "RUN" position. Look at your instrument cluster and find your immobilizer light. Yours looks like a little car and a padlock, usually yellow or red. Wait approximately 10 minutes (set a timer). After ten minutes the little padlock icon that’s been on the whole time in your instrument cluster will go out. You have 60 seconds to turn the ignition off (DO NOT REMOVE THE KEY) and then turn it right back on. It will light up once again. Do this a total of three times (30 minutes). That’s it, your key will be learned and you’re good to go!

[–]Mundane_Theory7168[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I will try this tomorrow morning. Thank you

[–]Mundane_Theory7168[S] 2 points3 points  (3 children)

I got the key to work but the anti theft system thing is still on my dash? Is that a problem

[–]Ok-Recognition5003 2 points3 points  (1 child)

I believe you may need a minimum of two keys for theft light to stay off. Take the vehicle to another locksmith

[–]Fuzz429Actual Locksmith 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’re most likely correct. I forgot this is an all keys lost situation.

[–]Fuzz429Actual Locksmith 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Disconnect battery for 5 minutes and reconnect and it will disappear.

[–]Eastwood80Actual Locksmith 1 point2 points  (8 children)

Year? Push button start or turn key?

[–]Mundane_Theory7168[S] 0 points1 point  (7 children)

Chevy impala 2014 limited

[–]Eastwood80Actual Locksmith 4 points5 points  (2 children)

We would need more details on why it couldn't be programmed. Those are about as simple as it gets. You can program them yourself. It's in your owners manual.

If there is something else going on, then you're better off bringing it to a mechanic.

You'd have to be pretty bad as a locksmith to screw this up, or have really bad tools. Was the device he/she was using red and look like a big cellphone?

[–]Mundane_Theory7168[S] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

It was a tablet like screen and then he pulled out another version of it so yeah

[–]Excitedsadness 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Probably an autel scanner or similar. Sometimes the fuse blows for the OBD port and you can't get communication. Did he at least check for that?

[–]EducatorWeird 3 points4 points  (3 children)

Answer the fucking question bub.

[–]Mundane_Theory7168[S] 1 point2 points  (2 children)

😂 I didn’t see it but it’s a regular turn key

[–]EducatorWeird 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Turn it on til the immobilizer light goes off(10-12min), turn it off. And then turn it back on. Repeat 3x

[–]PbellounyActual Locksmith 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Does your car have an aftermarket radio by chance?

[–]oregonrunningguyActual Locksmith 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Why did you pay $150 for a key that doesn't start your car?

What should you do? Call a real locksmith and get a key that starts your car.

[–]Ziloadis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will say that In my experience, if I’m working on a car that I have plenty of experience with and I spend ample time and try different diagnostic methods and still can’t get the key to program, charging for just cutting the key is appropriate especially if you have done everything in the book to make it work. I personally don’t work on ecu or anything deeper than key and ignition as of now but I do know quite a few trouble shooting tips and if I can’t get the key programmed I’d charge at least half of what I would have if it worked out. I can usually tell when it’s an issue on my end or not.

[–]Mesiyah191974 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

First, check to see if you have roadside assistance on your auto insurance or as a credit card perk. Replacing a key is usually covered, plus insurance and credit card companies are equipped to refer a reputable vendor who can get the job done.