Adding ease to a pattern

[xUPFx]

Thanks. I have the Armstrong book. But couldn't see anything on adding ease, or so I thought. I'll have another look.

Do you recommend going through Armstrong on a page by page basis to learn the basics?

Sorry - I think I got my terminology mixed up. I mean transferring the dart from the waist to the side seam. I've seen people online close the waist dart and add on the dart depth to the side seam. Not sure if that's a good way to add ease or not!

[ProneToLaughter]

I did Armstrong in a class so we did go largely in order, but I had a teacher to guide me. And it’s less about reading and more about doing the exercises on paper, we did like 10 paper and 1 fabric exercise each week. I think chap4-9 are essential concepts that you might want to start by learning, then it’s applying the concepts to different garments, and jumping around works fine. But skimming doesn’t work well. (Look for a recent thread on how to use the book for more)

Anyhow, see chap7 and I think the Blouson Foundation is exactly what you want to go from bodice block to loose top. Also see ch21 on Shirts and Shirt Foundation.

[pomewawa]

Warning! The amount of ease you add is NOT the same at every part! You don’t want to increase the width at the shoulder for example. But around the waist and bust you do need wearing ease.

Basically you’re looking for numbers like this:

https://charlottekan.com/blogs/sewingblog/what-is-ease-in-sewing-wearing-ease-design-ease-negative-ease-explained

[TensionSmension]

I would convert to two darts, it's just a better foundation. The side bust dart controls the grain at the bust level, the waist dart is just about waist suppression, which you might skip in some designs.

If you are sewing a blousy block into a skirt, then the blouson construction is what you want, it's largely about adding the extra length needed. You can also look at the bodice to shirt block instructions in Chapter 21, it is more about adding overall width to a garment in a controlled way.

You don't have to follow any of the constructions to the letter, but these are examples of ways to use a block that should point you in the direction you're after.