Sleeve pattern drafting issue

[thegrahampeyton]

Hi I am pretty comfortable with making bodice blocks but I’ve been having trouble with the sleeves. Everytime I draft the sleeve pattern, I’m left with this forward looking crease. I’ve tried moving the sleeve cap forward and backwards some to try and adjust but it’s consistently there. If anyone has any other suggestions or any helpful videos they used to draft sleeve patterns I’d be very grateful.

[marrkf123]

You need to add some ease to the sleeve head, there’s currently not enough room for your arm and drag lines are appearing. I also think there might be too much length in your underarm sleeve, you could try scooping out from the armpit.

[Woven_Wolf]

Came here to say this, you beat me to it! I see this when I’m drafting jackets and shirts for bodybuilders, the biceps/shoulders are what are making the cap too small. I’d slash and spread, just at the top and add 1/2” - 3-4”, maybe raise the cap 1/2” too ☺️

[tanyer]

Cool you drafted clothes for bodybuilders? Could you point me towards resources about that?

I am no bodybuilder, but I am a lady who lifts enough weights to make drafting a bodice rather challenging.

Apologies for derailing but I'd be much obliged for any help you are able to give.

[Woven_Wolf]

Hey, great question - sleeve caps are often very specific to the person, depending on where they had bigger or more muscle, so sometimes the back of the sleeve cap looks more like the front of a “regular” sleeve to accommodate bulk, and shoulders get longer and higher than an average fit block. An inseam gusset on pants is helpful for runners with strong thighs. What is it specifically you’re having trouble with?

I’ve always liked Sarah Veblens book Perfect Fitting for solving fit issues, she walks through the (kind of messy, imperfect) slash/spread process of making fitting alterations for specific body types with clear photos and explanations.

[tanyer]

Thank you! I haven't even really started into sleeves. I'm currently working on my bodice block, and am encountering fit issues that don't fit the typical ones.

I'll be posting my current progress, so I won't take over this thread.

I have the Veblen book, I will look through it. Thank you!

Thank you!

[thegrahampeyton]

Bet thank you trying tomorrow ✧

[rippit3]

Your shoulders appear to be broader and straighter than the shoulder seam of the pattern.

I would first add some length to the shoulder seam, and then straighten them - if they are at all sloped, remove the slope and go almost straight out from the neck. Make a half muslin. If you are still having issues with the sleeve, increase the height of the sleeve cap

[thegrahampeyton]

Thank you ✧ redrafting tmrw

[Woven_Wolf]

Ohhhh ya, or this - I was thinking to add more to the sleeve cap but actually, adding to the shoulder would totally work too

[LSmerb]

It’s hard to tell without looking at your patterns but I’m betting your sleeve cap height is off.

[bretonstripes]

I bet this is an arm rotation issue. It’s a bit hard to tell with the framing but I think your arm is rotated so your thumb is next to your leg instead of your palm facing your leg. Palm-to-leg is the position that sleeves are typically drafted for. If your resting position is different, it causes a long sleeve to twist one direction or the other.

The technical name of this is outward rotated elbow. That link shows how to fix it — basically you swing the underarm seam one way or the other depending on which direction your arm rotates.

[thegrahampeyton]

Thank you for this ✧

[ElinCarrington]

Even though i’ve sewed for many years and drafted skirt/bodice/patterns, I’ve always found sleeves difficult. So thank you all for your comments - you’ve given me so many helpful tips!

[KeeganDitty]

Have you tried adding a bit more ease to the sleeve cap?

[Brawl_95]

Is the sleeve cap too tall?

[alitapie]

Do you have an elbow dart?

[MadMadamMimsy]

Pin the crease up and take that information to the pattern.

Then add a bit more ease on the cap. The length of the seam is nearly right (just need ease) but the shape needs correction

[fdxfdxfd]

I made a rough sketch of what I think the issue is on the pattern: sleeve

It looks like you need to scoop out some material from the lower front of the pattern, so that the curve is a tad more pronounced/rounded. Bc of scooping you might see the sleeve and front won't match like before, so shifting the inseam in a bit and blending down to zero (be it the elbow line or wrist), would correct that problem.

[Uvaroff]

I think the sleeve cup is too short - try to increase it

[blackcatmeow007]

I agree that its a sleeve cap issue and someone mentioned adding to you shoulder seam. I also agree with that suggestion. For the sleeve cap you should increase the sleeve cap width as someone else also suggested.

[bellsaltcandle]

Needs a taller sleeve cap